alsil

March 21, 2002

OK so the final verdict - $111 for the tensioner pulley, and $25 for the belt.

Well, at least I toasted a 5.0 on my way home yesterday. I guess that made it worth it. Maybe he wouldn't have been so mad if he knew it was a 5.0 under my hood too. Probably Chevy-phobic!!

Al

March 21, 2002

HELP! I heard a weird clicking noise, opened my hood, and my serp. belt idler was bouncing all over the place!!! And the more you rev, the more noise it makes! I want to make sure it's not something else that could cause this, like a binding accessory (the only ones I have are the Power Steering punp and Alternator). Anyone seen this before? I'm kind of worried about driving home, since the belt might fly and I would get stuck. If it's the idler, it's prety easy to fix, I just want to know if I am right.

HELP!!

Thanks

Al

March 20, 2002

Spring loaded. The thing's flappin' like crazy. I was worried that it's more than that, like the alternator or something, but my Power steering and charge is working great.

The Ford dealership is asking $105 for the part.

Hopefully that's it, thanks for the help!

AL

March 1, 2002

I actually meant one that used the stock fronts of the guages, so it looked stock. I know someone posted about, I just couldn't find it.

Thanks

AL

March 1, 2002

Hey guys, I know there was a thread on here with pics (or maybe someone had a webpage) about installing aftermarket guages in the stock locations, using the housings. I am planning on getting the other 2 guages I need (oil pressure, water temp), and try and make it look as stock as possible. does anyone remember where that page or that thread was? I did a search and didn't find it.

thanks

Al

February 13, 2002

So I want to wire up my messed up turn singal wiring. My switch is brand new, so I want to make a seperate harness since I have pretty much replaced most of the stock harness already.

I have most of the wiring figured out, I just need to know about the switch. Is it a switching ground, or just redirecting current? I don't think it's a switching ground because the flasher has to be before the switch in the circuit, but you never know with Nissan wiring.

So so far, here's what I have:

12+ from battery -> fuse box -> flasher -> switch -> right or left lights -> to common ground

Does that sound right? Also, I assume there are only 3 wires I need from the switch, the 12+ feed and the two wires for the lights. I am not using the brake lights in the circuit, I'm doing that seperate.

Thanks

AL

January 31, 2002

well, it depends on how the motor is mounted. mine is slightly higher an d farther forward. I haven't seen a problem with this except for the crossmember clearence. The reason I have mine where it's at is because the way it sits now the bottom of the oil pan is even with the bottom of the crossmember. I didn't feel comfortable bringing it lower, although others have. If there have been no cases of the oil pan getting hit maybe I'll hit up someone about what the design is. Until then I'll keep improving mine.

Thanks

Al

January 30, 2002

Actually I have rethought the whole thing and will be going with the crossmember. It's easier to install, and others will be able to duplicate it easy without a lot of cutting and welding to the car. I'll let you guys see it when it's done. It will position the engine the same place it is now, but will be a 1-piece corssmember that bolts in the same place as the old mounts I made.

Al

January 29, 2002

Use the early small block Ford mount, used from 65-70 on Mustangs, Cougars, etc...

I have to agree with you, I think a sleeve is a good idea.

I did have another idea, which would alleviate most of the issues. instead of having them only secure to the framerail, have a 2" round tube connecting the 2, and have it drop on top of the framerail. This would take care of the framerail weakness issue because the load would just be on the top, so you would only have to use 2 bolts from top to bottom to secure into place. No sagging, no twisting.

I have been thinking about this, but have not got around to measuring it out yet. wouldn't take long, but I have been REALLY busy.

This I think will be my next project.

Al

January 27, 2002

Yes. That is it. But from experience I can tell you, use the horizontal bolts to secure it. the frame rail will let the mount sag.

Thanks

Al

January 25, 2002

You can either check out this thread:

http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=000197

or you can check out these pics of mine in place:

http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/steer31.jpg

http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/steer33.jpg

http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/engine45.jpg

http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/engine47.jpg

Some of those are partially bocked too, but you can really see the mount and how it sits. I am planning on taking some more pics this weekend, so maybe I can get some better shots.

Thanks

AL

January 23, 2002

They're not much different, but I COULD have used the heddmans I bought if I hadn't done the power conversion. If you are talking about the 5.0 headers, I don't think so. the collectors are too wide and contact the frame rails. The only way to make those kind fit is to raise the engine, and I wouldn't raise the engine anymore. I am only doing the 1/4" so that I get better crossmember clearence.

Thanks

AL

January 21, 2002

Yes, the tube is angled slightly up in the front for engine angle. So that the higher end is always forward. it's very little but it makes the motor mount line up right.

Thanks

AL

January 21, 2002

Thanks.

Wanted to lift the engine just a little becuase my oil pan was BARELY missing the crossmember. This will help.

Plus, I want to reinforce the mount to the rail. Hopefully this will be the only revision.

Thanks

AL

January 19, 2002

Hey guys, I have revised the frame mount design for my car:

this is to reenforce the frame rail, and to be a more solid mount. You will also have to add a 1/4" spacer to the bottom of the transmission mount to even up the angles. thought I'd share that with you guys, just in case you were going to try and use that design.

Thanks

AL

January 18, 2002

There were 2 distinctly different 260z's:

1. 1974 260z, very similar to a 240, with bumper shocks on the front and rear with the 240z style bumpers, the updated dash (ala 280z) and had the HMB carbs (flat top).

2. EARLY 1975, more like a 280z, 280z style bumpers, but still had the flat top carbs. Other than that the same as a '74.

BUT ... there are some last model 260z's with EFI. They were having so many problems with the HMB carbs towards the end that they started to use the EFI. there are not many cars that got it, but it was a reliablity problem, and people weren't buying them because of it. I have seen 2 ever.

So I guess the answer is the 1975 260z.

Al

January 17, 2002

I agree that the 4-piston will help, but I have had stock brakes before, and they do tend to heat up and fade quickly. In fact, I warped a pair of rotors on one Z I had with stock brakes in traffic on a hot day. But then again, I live in the SF Bay area, where you drive for a mile, crawl for 2, drive another mile, crawl for 2, etc etc.......

If you're going to keep your stock wheels, you could upgrade, but not to the 4Runner calipers, they are too wide for the stock rotor. They are made to use a (I think) ~ .600" vented rotor (not sure about the number, just a guess), and the stock rotor is ~.280 (?). I have the vented rotors on mine, and they are WAY thicker. You can email SCCAMike about exact dims. The calipers you need are from 80-83 Toyota 4x4's. They use the same thickness rotor as the Z. That is the setup they refer to in the JTR book.

Those will work well, definately an upgrade in actual braking force, but not much in fade resistance. You just have a 25% larger surface area to transfer heat. Better, but with a solid rotor it's not that much.

Just my opinion. Hope it helps.

AL

January 14, 2002

I was not running o PCV valve on my car until a few weeks ago. I had a problem with fumes getting into the car, and I checked all my seals. I had a similar problem on my old '66 Mustang way back. So I put a PCV valve from the carb to the valve cover (stock fitting on the '95 oil filler tube ont eh valve cover) and the fumes are gone.

I HIGHLY recommend one. Even if you can't smell the fumes, they are there.

AL

January 10, 2002

The Clifford one bolts to the stock intakes where the cabrs went. The distribution would be the same as stock. This is the one I was looking for for my last Z. Found one on Ebay once, maybe you can get lucky. Actually found one with a carb (a Holley 390) that was already tuned for an L28.

Good Luck!

AL

December 27, 2001

Yup, that's mine. I got an email last night baou it.

There are 2 revisions to the mounts-

1- adding a bottom part to the mount, making the part that slips over the frame a "C", so the bolt goes through the mount, frame, then the mount again, to resist motion and sagging.

2- move the actual mount holes (the tubes the motor mount bolts go through) out 1/8" for each.

This makes the mount more rigid. I am thinking about doing a redesign with a tube, that would drop into place, ala the Focus 5.0 mount (they stole my idea, dammit!)

So far, even without the reinforcements, it's worked great. I just am not satisified with the placement completely, and I want the engine a little bit higher.

Other than that, I'm having a great time with the car now, since I have got past all the engine problems (take my advice, NEW is the way to go. Also, don't take ANYBODY'S word for it. Chekc stuff yourself!).

Al

December 26, 2001

Looks great! Good to see someone else doing the SB Ford swap! Light weight + High HP = FAST!

Just wait until you drive it! HOLY S@*$#*@#@#@##@T!

By the way, the fuel filter placement looks a bit familiar!

Al

December 22, 2001

I wonder how adaptable that would be to a Z.........

Gonna find out.....

AL

December 20, 2001

I wonder why they don't have any info on the differential.....they say it's rear drive.....the Focus is front drive, so what do you swap in the rear?

AL

December 6, 2001

Cool, thanks for the info. I figure it will work until I rewire the car. I need to get a new combo switch. But I will eventually go through the whole thing.

Thanks for the help!

AL

December 5, 2001

OK so here's my next question. I'm going to hook this up to a toggle switch for the time being. This is how I think I should wire it up, because it's only a 2 position switch on/off:

B - Ground

LR - Constant

*Both Key Power*

L - Switch on to Ground

LW - Relay (not sure if it will work this way) to Ground

If I hook it up this way, I don't think the relay to put the wipers back down will work. How could I get past this? Is the relay in the combo switch (I hope not) or should I steal the wires from the steering column to make this work?

I'm pretty sure my combo switch is bad. What do you think?

AL

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Posts posted by alsil