Iceman
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Posts posted by Iceman
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You never will. HybridZ provides information so you can make your own decision. If you just want someone to tell you what to do, you've come to the wrong place.
Well, I guess what I meant was I couldnt find information on this topic.
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My Z is pretty rust free. Always been a CA car. The stock rails look great except for a few small dents on the underside from my accident. I'll post a pic later.
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You can probably get 20-25mpg pretty easily with any well-tuned setup. Your HP goal is probably going to be the most important factor. You can get a bit more power if you swap to an L28 engine. What are you trying to obtain that you don't have right now, just a higher power-band? More HP?
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Dear God, Is that turbo rated for bird strikes? I hope so.
My thought exactly. I hope he has some form of grill in front of it, but it doesnt look like it. Even bugs getting sucked in could be bad.
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With the vague nature of your question, you are probably already in a lot of trouble. You didnt even mention what grade level or form of chemistry. Unless you have specific questions about hydrocarbons and combustion, I wouldnt expect much help here.
BTW, I know enough about chemistry to blow any beaker to smithereens.. if that will help, PM me.
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I have a 1970 240Z and I am planning on going for a SBC 350 and a HP goal of ~300. I believe that puts the torque in the 350lb/ft range too. This is mostly going to be a daily driver with ~8" rear tires. It will also have 5spd manual, and R200 with some low gear ratio. I am very unlikely to ever visit the drag strip, but there will be plenty of times where I will be punching it pretty hard on the streets. So my question is.. do I need to do chassis reinforcements/new frame rails?
I can't seem to find any general guidelines, and I know there are a number of things to consider, so I hope I gave the important ones. I am hoping that I wont need them as there is no way I will be able to do the rotisserie route.
Flame me if you want, but I searched and browsed and couldnt find an answer to this question..
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UGLY! IMO
I'll see if I can dig up my before pictures.
I have a silver 240 that I bought with gold center enkei mesh wheels.
One of the first things I did was painted over the gold with black.
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my only interest in carbs is for the sound...
I may be wrong, but adding a supercharger is going to make the two sound almost identical. The sound of the intake is going to be very different than the sound of the carb alone.
I've searched around a bit for this same idea (I have an L28 turbo block with SUs) and have found that it is very unlikely to be successful. From what I have read, there just arent any side-drafts that are designed in such a way that they would work with supercharging. If you really want to go with a supercharged setup, I would recommend switching to EFI, getting a centrifugal supercharger, and blowing through an intercooler just like the turbo guys do. A supercharger would definitely be a wicked package since there is no lag.
Personally I abandoned the supercharger idea since my HP goal is about 300, which can be fairly easily obtained with a N/A SBC 350.
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Very nice! I dunno what part of CA you are in, but if you decide you want them chrome, there is a powder-coating shop in Rocklin that can powder-coat nearly any material. I forget what show I was at, but there was someone who had done just that.. chromed fiberglass.
I keep wanting to get around to doing some fiberglass. I'd like to make some doors with a box steel frame and fiberglass skins like I've seen a couple times in kit car magazines.
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still looking for one
Again, are you looking for one wheel? If so, I have one...
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I have a superflow straight-through. It's pretty quiet if I'm careful. Used to have a resonator in the middle, but I took it out. Doesnt seem to be any difference in volume when I am being gentle, but sounds absolutely beautiful when I get on it hard.
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I have a little 110v mig welder that I think cost about $200 from harbor freight. I was an absolute beginner and only knew the basic concepts and knew I needed a mask. Too bad I didnt know I should have paid more for one that covers the neck too.. ouch..
It was pretty easy to jump into and start welding. Didnt take long till I was making statues out of old exhaust clamps.
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My understanding of control arms is that the length relationship between upper and lower doesnt really matter, the most important part is that the outer pivot point be parallel or behind the lower pivot point or you will introduce positive camber when the wheel goes up. I'm sure someone will chime in with a more scientific answer though.
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Yeah, I commute 80 miles each day and there are charging stations close to each end.
An electric vehicle could be nice but depends on how much you drive and what your willing to spend on building the conversion.They were I am to lazy to find anything myself..You've successfully increased your thread-count and your point is noted.
I asked because you only get a few examples on ebay, etc. I asked because there's a lot of room for "around here they are easy to find and go for..." and "i normally see.."
FYI, I just checked eBay and found 1 for $7800.. I doubt that is indicative of general price.
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I know the pick-n-pull in Rancho Cordova normally has a good handful of Zs. That's probably well over an hour away, but might be worth the drive. I'm probably heading over there soon for some from front springs. I can check for (and maybe pull) some stuff for you and bring it home. I live in Vacaville, so I might be within your range.
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Thanks. I'll admit I didnt check craigslits because I am leary about purchasing anything from there, but I could have looked for examples of price and condition. Hey, wonder if that first guy will trade for my CRX
Do you have any opinions about the roadsters?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1381814970.htmlhttp://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1385792770.html
Those are two in your general area.
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For all the time you spend making this post you could easily answered most of your questions.. How hard are they to find? Have you looked? That might answer your question. How much will you spend? Ever heard of craigslist, ebay, or for sale sections in forums? What condition will they be in? How do you answer that? Rusted, original, clean, pristine, junk...
I vote tool shed.
You often dont get a very accurate representation of the condition of rare cars and how you normally find them in the real world when you go to craigslist, ebay, etc. I've checked a few times on ebay (no, I didnt search at the time I started this thread) and have normally seen just fully restored ones. I was hoping people might chime in on ones they have actually seen around. I guess I should have put more emphasis on what people's opinions and feedback on the model as that was more of what I was intending to ask.
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I've been considering getting an old datsun roadster as a commuter. (Still keeping my Z). I think a nice DOHC 4 would be a nice package for good mileage and plenty of guts for a bit of fun. An electric conversion would be pretty cool too. So I have a couple questions..
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How hard are they to find?
What kind of condition would I expect to find one in?
How much should I be expecting to spend?
Anyone have one?
Any general comments on the roadster? (i.e. dont get one because ___)
Anyone seen one converted to electric?
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I think that's what year mine came from. Thanks for reminding me to try to put it in
That gives me another small project to work on while my Z rebuild is in progress.
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Tommy (my bud) got his driveline complete for $1800. That car went 18 miles from the dealer to a telephone pole! Killer deal, and now resides in his 74 Camaro.
That sounds like how I got the engine that I have. The guy who put it into my GMC got it from a full-size blazer that got stuck on RR tracks while messing around 4-wheeling in Placerville.
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I doubled up the front inputs to come out the rear, so it was really just a 2.1 system driving 4 speakers, similar to a normal car's system, as music in "surround" doesn't really work.
You could get one with Dolby Pro Logic if you want that concert feel
(The rear speakers would have almost no vocals)
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The carb I have is tuned pretty good, but I suppose I could take it to someone and get it tuned even better. It gets about 13mpg average in my '65 GMC with TH400 and 410 rear-end which I've heard is pretty good, especially since my foot sits on the floor a lot
.The sound is pretty unique, especially when I pop the secondaries open. It's interesting how much difference there is in sound between different carbs. I used to have another 4-barrel that had same size secondaries as primaries and they opened right off idle, but about 1/2 the rate that the primaries did. That made for a very NASCAR type sound around 4K-5K RPMS.
Sometimes I wonder if I might get better mileage with this carb over EFI since it pretty much just runs on the primaries when you are cruising.
The A/F ratio has been one of the things that has plagued me. I can't get it to not ping in the high (4500+) RPM range. Anything under 4500 it runs nice and clean and the plugs look perfect though. But... I was just reading somewhere that that might have more to do with the HEI dizzy that I have.
Apparently HEIs from the '80s were known to be sporatic at 4500+...?I wouldn't say they are all taken care of. A lot of it depends on the particular EFI. Modern stuff is more flexible. The nice thing about carbs is simplicity and some of the performance and sound you can't get with EFI. EFI is nice if you can't tune carbs and want the last bit of drivability and fuel economy.Have you considered modifications for fuel economy (and emissions)? Water Hydrolysis works and there are special catalyzer 'filters' you can put on your crankcase vent to make them burn up when they get sucked into the intake (Intercharger). I have seen cars first hand with one or both of these with substantial gains. The advantage of modern EFI working at hitting the appropriate A/F target by itself is also a hindrance if you want to tune to a different target.
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Do you want a pic of the good one, or do you need a set?
a little curb rash. still useable! -
Cool. I think it's third gen that I like the look of, where it looks kinda like a spider sitting on top. Am I correct with the understanding that with EFI engines, changes like new cam are automatically adjusted for by the ECU as long as the injectors can handle the extra demand?
The engine stuff on a TPI 3rd gen f body is a separate wiring harness, I believe it's the same for a TBI..
Apparently HEIs from the '80s were known to be sporatic at 4500+...?
Iceman's '70 build-up
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Found some old pictures.. here's some pics of my accident in '03. Got t-boned by a drunk driver. I guess these are my "before" pics as far as my current build-up goes.