Iceman
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Posts posted by Iceman
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I was reading in the JTR (Jags that Run) conversion book, and it says and shows that the '70 240Z console is shorter than all of the other models, and the shift is slightly further back. It also says the later consoles wont fit in the '70 240Z, but it fits just fine in mine. The VIN identifies it as a '70 240, as does the registration. Anything else that I can look for to identify it as a '70 240Z or not? I'd really like to not have any doubt.
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I seem to recall seeing a thread a few years back with diagrams for building weld-in V8 mounts as opposed to the multi-piece mounts that you can get from JTR, or fab, etc. Basically it was building a mount that would be like a native Chevy V8 mount, welded to the frame. Does anyone know what I am talking about?
I couldnt seem to find it by searching. -
If I go V8, this is probably going to be my exhaust choice too. I am planning on getting an in-line exhaust dump valve so I can pull a cable and bypass the muffler and dump down. A good option is these oval pipes I have seen before. Gives you really good flow without getting too close to the ground.
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I'm 28 and I've had my Z since 2003. I always liked the look of the Z and never actually had any idea about the performance. I've always liked the compact size too. My Dad got me into classic cars a long time ago, and my first oldie was mý '65 GMC. After having my '89 honda prelude for a few years, I decided my next car was going to be RWD and smog exempt
After searching for a few months, I found my 1970 240Z in excellent condition. It was a little more than I was hoping to spend ($3500), but already had a late-model 280, T5, and rear-end swapped in, as well as adjustable coil-overs in the rear, and a very clean body.
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do you have the right and left panels? my driver side is orange. how much would you sell it for?
The right side is the only one i have a spare of. If you want both, I suppose I can part with them right now (I am planning on making fiberglass ones soon).
I dunno what a fair price would be, maybe $15 each and I can meet you somewhere in the bay area so you don't have to pay for any shipping..
I'll post the pics later today. I'll take another look at them to inspect for any weathering or anything.
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Very nice. Can't wait to see more.
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I have a black door panel and i'm near the bay area. i'll take a pic of mine for you too. it's in decent condition. I'm pretty sure all of the years are the same.
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I just got the idea to try putting it in my oven on a low temp on my pizza stone (makes stuff crispy). How hot do they say a closed up car gets in the sun? Like 150deg?
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Just look up a price for a SBC 350 cam, then go look up the price for a 'Stage 3' or whatever L28 cam. You'll be blown away...
Oh.. no doubt that a V8 is more bang for the buck, especially SBC 350. A stroker 6 compared to a V8 is dollars to the penny. There's just something unique about popping the hood and showing that 6, as well as knowing you blew away a mustang or camaro while having a smaller, still N/A, engine. Ain't HP/Weight ratio a beautiful thing?
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very nice flatblack! Now if it just had a $ amount next to each
btw Khamie, what is your HP goal? I have a 280 engine that is stock except that I have SUs instead of the FI it came with, so I figure I am getting around 130-140HP based on original specs. I'm shooting for around 200HP, which I think an N/A stroker can do. I have really low gears and my Z is a 1970(lightest), so it already runs like a scared rabbit
, I'd just like to have a good bit more on tap without getting myself into trouble. -
I was looking for this info too. The info in your post is about all I could find when searching. I dont remember right off-hand what the compression ratio is, but I believe I figured 89 octane would be good. I think I've read that properly tuned SUs will flow enough to get great performance, but definitely not going to get you the most power you can get with the stroker. I started losing interest mostly due to the cost. Dropping an N/A mostly-stock V8 302 or larger is going to give about the same power as you can max out at with an N/A stroker, and cost several $100s less. We'll see if I got anything wrong here and someone corrects me
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As far as I know, a head gasket problem will normally result in an exchange of both oil and coolant, so your oil is definitely going to be a good indicator at this point. Any milky/chocolate mixed in it, like z-ya said, is going to confirm if there's any coolant in it. You didn't forget to check your thermostat, did you?
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use a meat dehydrator...it will really dry it out good without phisically burning it...
Oo, good idea.
Clothes dryer sounds good too.. maybe just have the wife leave a scrap of the fabric in the dryer with all of the loads for a week.
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If you want to simulate the elements, the easiest way is toss it out in the elements for a few days...
Seems logical to me.
I guess i should have been more specific.. trying to simulate an extended period of time of exposure.
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When people build these arent they typically made with something to put a load on the engine?
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1970 240z #2188
280 Engine with SUs
Currently being reZurrected
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I am considering a few different materials for the interior of my Z. I am just wondering if anyone knows of a decent way to simulate the elements (sun, cold, etc). I was thinking of repeated exposure to dry-ice and a hair-dryer, and maybe letting it bake on the roof of my house. Any ideas?
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It looks like you would be able to use one. From the pics, it doesnt really look like the contour is off very much, it just appears that there are cracks and some chunks missing.. is that right? You will probably still have a gap over the middle gauge though, at least with the type of cap I have.
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Wouldnt want to cross paths with you.. you'd blow my doors off!
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Just a heads-up, Pick-n-Pull's site says they are having half-price sales every wednesday through October 7th at these locations:
- All AZ and IN locations
- Summit, IL
Too bad none around me
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With 1K miles on it, maybe he started it and drove it around once in a while. Looks pretty, but I imagine the market is VERY limited.
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3 opinions = good for me.
It seems to be stuck pretty good. It's only coming off in pieces about the size of a quarter at a time. Anyone know an "easy" way, or should I just post when I figure it out myself?
I was thinking of maybe shooting some penetrating oil along the edges and see if it seeps into the glue.
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Mine is in the same spot as JHM's. It was mounted with one of the metal rectangle hold-downs and kept the battery in place following a mild t-bone with a 4-wheel drift into and over an island, and then down an embankment. (Not that I recommend that as a test
)The (+) cable runs along where the floor meets the door-frame on the passenger side, and the ground has a custom frame bolt location for Ground (prev owner did all of this). I'm probably going to put one of those jumbo battery disconnect switches for a little bit more theft-resistance.
JHM suggested a sealed battery, but this is actually a MUST!
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Are all of the steering racks from the S30s (including 2 vs 2+2) interchangeable?
(excluding right-hand drive, of course)Any change in ratio?
I have a 70 240z and need a steering rack and want to avoid pulling something from the junkyard that wont match up.
Any advice on inspecting before pulling? I only know to check for rust and boot conditions.
I couldnt seem to find it by searching.
, I'd just like to have a good bit more on tap without getting myself into trouble.
(excluding right-hand drive, of course)
WTB steering rack for 240Z
in Parts Wanted
Posted
As the title says, I'm looking for a steering rack for a 240Z. I've been advised that racks for the other S30s will work if I get the mounts too. Hoping to not spend too much, just trying to save myself a trip to pick-n-pull if anyone in my area happens to be parting out a Z.