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Iceman

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Posts posted by Iceman

    weld-in mounts

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Well, I wasn't really think of it as re-inventing the wheel, since I recalled seeing it done before. More like just choosing a different wheel :D

    I also thought there would be some pros-cons to each.

     

     

    I've got to say, it sounds like a lot of work to replace something with all the engineering worked out AND will simply bolt it.

     

    I've never had anyone look at my JTR mounts and say that they look out of place. Quite the contrary, everyone looks at the swap and says it looks like it came from the factory that way.

     

    There is plenty of other items in the motor swap where you will need to be creative. I'd offer that re-inventing the wheel (motor mounts, that is) is not worth the effort.

    weld-in mounts

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Thanks Davy! I think you hit the nail right on the head :-D

     

    I was thinking about doing this because I think it would make the engine compartment look a little bit cleaner and look more like the engine was supposed to be there. I seem to recall some benefit to having it mounted to the frame-rails as opposed to the crossmember.

     

    I was talking to someone, and he was saying it probably wouldnt be that hard as long as the engine is parallel to the frame, and the output-shaft is parallel to the ground.

     

    Ah, now I think I remember: this almost sounds like what they were doing initially for the LS1 swap a number of years ago. They had to cut everything, as I recall, and measure for mount fabrication. I don't think this was done for the SBC.

     

     

    Davy

    Is my 240 somehow a fake?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    your car looks damn good for being #2188

    Thanks. One of the great benefits of being a California car. The prev owner took good care of it and did some nice work on it.

     

     

    that seat looks the same as the seats I have in my CRX; PO said they were Integra seats I believe?

    Not sure. They were there when i bought it. They do look integra-style thought. I had an 89 prelude that had very similar seats. I might seek them out for redoing the interior as the prelude had a very nice adjustable lumbar support, and adjustable "hugging" sides.

    weld-in mounts

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Thanks Davy. I was just wondering this morning if I was ever going to get any responses, or if I really should have put this in the fabbing forum.

     

    Basically what I remember was people were cutting the existing engine mounts from the frame, then lowering the engine into the bay, measuring, and fabbing new mounts to weld to the frame.

    Why do import guys have stufed animals/dolls on their exhaust?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    So is this like the Japanese version of what the rednecks do around here and hang plastic bull balls off the back of their pickups?

     

     

    Hmm

     

    I absolutely hate those things. I've vowed to carry a pair of cutters and snip them off if i see any in a parking lot. Even if the guy sees me, what is he gonna do, call the cops and say "he cut off my illegal display of genetalia"?

     

    As far as the stuffed animals and such, I've seen a lot of those around my area, most of them are no where near low enough to drag on the ground, but i just figure the kids are doing it because they think it's cool and don't know why.

    What Gear Ratio do you have???

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    These anecdotes about diff ratios are relatively meaningless without the inclusion of the tyre ( tire ) diameters used.

     

    True.. but they are pretty accurate considering the possible sizes running on a Z. Not likely that anyone is running truck tires on their Z nor tires with a 14" OD. :mrgreen:

     

    This should be of some help though for more specifics..

    Z Transmission Calculator

    No lights until 4000 RPM

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    No the lights stay on after they come on. The speedo works but it's mechanical. All other gauges are dead. I still havent got the tach to work with edis yet. But I do not have oil pressure or temp and they are hooked up correctly!

     

    Sorry, I meant the lights for those..

     

    Could it be an alternator issue where it only kicks on when the alternator starts putting out juice? The alternator is new and worked great before I pulled the motor.

     

    I wouldnt think so, because there is power from the battery.

    I'm wondering if the vibration up to 4000 RPM is rattling something until it makes contact.

    What Gear Ratio do you have???

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I have the 3.90 diff (guy I bought it from said it was the 4.30, but I dunno about that) and an N/A L28 in a '70 240Z. Not certain which tranny I have (i think it's from an '83), but it has a REALLY high 5th. Low/High... I always get those confused.. anywho, 5th gear is like 2500RPM at 75MPH. Generally speaking, having a rear ratio around the 3.0-3.5 range is good when you have more HP, but I will be keeping my 3.9 since my 5th gear is so high.

    need electrical help

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted · Edited by Iceman
    bad grammar :-P

    A quick way to do a basic test on an alternator is to get out your volt meter and check the voltage with the car running, and the car off. Running, it should be about 13.5V, even if you have lights, radio, etc on. If not 13.5V, your alternator is very likely to be the problem, but if it is 13.5V there is still a possibility that it's not putting out the AMPS, and should be bench tested.

     

    Engine off, you should be right around 12V. This will give you a starting point. If the alternator is no good, go yell at the shop. If the regulator is no good then go get yourself a new alternator from your favorite parts store from a late 80's Chevy that is internally regulated, wire it up, and call it a day. (There's probably other Makes that work, but I use the Chevy alternators because the mounting holes seem to line up more often than not with any cars that I have retrofitted).

    Ridiculous but awesome!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    The distributor and some of the sparky wires on that bike are awfully close to the ........ front of the seat. Could get, ummmm, interesting, in the rain. :shock:

     

    I was going to say the same thing. I've been scared of distributors ever since one got a good zap on me thanks to a messed up boot. Unfortunately I was grounded because I was leaning against the fender and making contact just below the waist :shock:

     

    I'd hate to deliberately put the distributor that close.

    The wheels actually fit!!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Wow, 14s with the 4x4 brakes, that must be a close fit!

     

    Anytime I hear about someone fitting wheels it reminds me of one time I was in a chain tire/wheel store and someone bought new rims. The shop mounted them and tried to back the truck out. It seemed like it was resisting a little bit, but instead of the guy getting out to see what was wrong, he just punched the gas and busted the customer's calipers right off the truck :shock:

    how can I make it faster

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I'd do some work on your SUs. I have almost the same setup and I can twist mine up to 6000 with power. I used to top out much lower than that (maybe it was around 4000) when my SUs werent balanced.

     

    Not smart ass answer:

     

    High compression flat top pistons

    Upgraded exhaust manifold and carburetor

    High flow exhaust and headers

    Racing Camshaft

     

    Wow, i'd like your budget if you consider those inexpensive! :mrgreen:

    Anyone have shaved door handles and lights

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Yup, there's my baby. I have a brand new rear-mounted gel battery, so i've never had a problem with the battery going bad. When I bought the car though, it had a dinky standard battery, which didnt work very well. However, the solenoid for the door use so little power that even when I left the lights on through an 8-hour workday and they were just that faint orange, barely can tell they are on, the door opened up just fine. The battery on the remote is a different story, but you can tell that it is getting low when your range shortens.

     

    As I am rebuilding my Z, I am going to be putting a solenoid in the passenger door too, activated by a button on the center console. (Leaning across to open the passenger door is a little lame). I am also going to use same-pole magnets in the door frame to make the doors pop out further, and I plan to have a magnetically controlled relay hidden in the door so I can waive a small magnetic "key" to activate the solenoid. The "key" is also going to activate a hidden ignition switch inside the car.

    Redoing interior.. what's this rubbery plastic stuff?

    in Interior

    Posted

    Well, I am now about 1/3rd of the way through removing it. Ended up being a classic example of spotting a tool and saying "hey, i'll bet that'll work". I am using a hosehold moulding pry bar as a chisel. Turns out most of it is pretty brittle as I get towards the middle, so it is coming off pretty easily. The floorboards are a different story. I'll probably drop the dry ice on them. Thanks for the input everyone!

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