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AlbatrossCafe

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Posts posted by AlbatrossCafe

  1. I'm in Bellevue. I have a '78 280z with an '82 L28ET. I bought it with the swap completed though cus I wanted to avoided that hassle.

    I tore down my engine a few months ago to throw in a bigger turbo, Megasquirt, injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, etc. and it has been down ever since. I probably need more help than you do LOL

  2. 9 hours ago, softopz said:

    One of your pics scare me you dont want the harness through the turbo like that.. Did I not leave enough slack? I am referring to pic 2 btw.

    IM With Rossman here no on the heat shield.

    I would put the EBC on the side shock tower. I have mine there too..

     

    Also if you dont want to run an adaptor for vacuum line , You can get the appropriate barbs for the solenoid I believe its a 1/8npt.

     

     You can plug one of the two turbo fittings never understood why Nissan put two boost referenced on the compressor housing. 

     

    Don't be scared! Nothing is mounted yet. The harness just fell that way while I held it for the pic. Side of the shock tower seems like an easy location and I'll throw it on there.

     

    Yeah, I would prefer to avoid a vacuum line adapter. I was wondering about having larger barbs for the solenoid. My concern was, if I add in larger barbs, does that risk running too much air through the EBC and damaging something? I was thinking it might have had the smaller barbs for a reason, but I have no idea. If not, this seems like the easiest solution.

  3. I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt.

     

    1. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1.
    2. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical?
    3. If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant?
    4. The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections?

     

    EBC (#1):

    KOI6gW7.jpg

     

    Install Location (#2):

    VdkaG8r.jpg?1

     

    Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4):

    QkfEFFw.jpg

     

  4. On 11/20/2018 at 3:09 PM, Chickenman said:

    Ceramic coatings, heat shields and Turbo blankets are not just for performance. Their main function is to decrease the HUGE heat soak problems that the Turbo L-series suffer from. Performance increases are secondary, but nice. 

     

    Having the Turbo and exhaust manifolds directly under the Intake manifolds is just not ideal at all.  Even on a mild build,  you will have issues if you do not pay careful attention to heat management.  Exhaust manifold and Turbo temps vary little between a 250hp engine and a 400HP engine. Overall heat is very similar. 

     

    So don't think I can pony up for ceramic coatings, but I used heat wrap on the downpipe and ex. manifold and added a blanket to the turbo.

     

    Now I am reading that using wrap on exhaust manifolds is a bad idea... :(  Something about it causing the steel to become hotter than it would if it just vented normally and causing it to crack. What do you think ? Is a heat wrap not recommended? How come the stock engine did not use it if it was so necessary?

     

     

  5. 10 hours ago, Chickenman said:

    Before you go too far. Get that exhasut manifold off and send it out for Ceramic coating on the exterior. Well worth it. Ceramic coating the Turbine housing when it was at GPop would have been a good idea. But a Good Turbo balnket should suffice. Ceramic coating on downpipe is nice as well.

     

     

    I'm not looking for 400hp performance. Looking for a modest ~280hp or so. Seems like coating the ex. manifold would be overkill? A blanket is easy enough, I can add that to the turbo

  6. Hey guys,

     

    Just wanted to let you know how my Gpop shop turbo rebuild went in case anyone was looking at going to them: http://gpopshop.com/

     

    Before: 1982 L28ET Garret AiResearch stock T3 turbo

    After: Upgraded into T3/T4 hybrid with T4 .50 trim compressor wheel and Stage III exhaust turbine. All moving components rebuilt/replaced if applicable.

     

    Review: So far, I am very satisfied with their work. When they said "we will make your turbo like new" I was skeptical. They took my 35 year old turbo and genuinely made it better than it was when it was new back in 1982. Externally, it looks great. I decided to have Gpop upgrade my stock turbo because I didn't want to deal with fabbing up external wastegates or put in spacers to get something aftermarket to fit. The cost (~$900 btw) was comparable to buying a new Garrett hybrid and in the end I get something that I know will bolt right in AND has a warranty to boot. Also, their customer service was awesome.

     

    I say "Externally, it looks great" cus I haven't finished putting together my engine yet 🙃 I'll update the review with actual performance "soon"!

     

    T7d5Qji.jpg

     

    8UmwS56.jpg

    67vSFPt.jpg

    GzOPoMz.jpg

  7. 19 hours ago, Gollum said:

    Yeah, that might sound like a good chunk of money for "only" a custom t3/t4 hybrid, but in the grand scheme that's money well spent and not a bad way to go. I'd also let Gpop know that you only care about keeping the turbine housing. If it's cheaper to use a whole T4 compressor side, then that's fine. That's assuming you're going to be running an intercooler and not the stock J-pipe. No sense in keeping the stock compressor housing unless it's a zero cost difference.

     

    I According to Gpop, a new housing would be an additional $100-$250 and they commented:

     

    Quote

    Realistically you should be able to get 375hp out of the stock housing, the compressor housing really does not make that much of a difference in the overall scheme of things.

     

  8. Wow @seattlejester sounds like you obsess over hobbies like this even more than I do... haha. Get that fuel pump back in already and convince me otherwise! It helps when I can actually see something installed/in action.

     

    On 10/8/2018 at 8:49 AM, Dat73z said:

     

    The cost of rebuild and upgrade is not insignificant. I believe I was quoted somewhere around $695 before shipping by gpopshop to upgrade the stock 280zx T3 to T3/T04E 50 trim before some other options like ceramic coating, upgraded bearings, etc. but ditched that idea after removing the OEM wastegate housing and finding my turbine side had some significant cracks. You're basically in new turbo territory at that price point. 

     

    FYI, here is Gpop's response in case you or anyone else were interested. They quote $895 for compressor upgrade and rebuild where they use a t4 .50 trim wheel inside of the stock compressor housing. That would allow me to continue to use my MSA downpipe and internal wastegate, and it would be a direct fit (no spacer off intake manifold), but I'm not sure how easily that would get me to 300HP?

     

    Quote

    We have built many of these turbos over the years and would be glad to help you. The good news is that these turbos stock come with the .63 A/R turbine housing. In most cases we use both stock housings the compressor (aluminum side) and turbine, machine them for the 50 trim compressor wheel and stage 3 turbine wheel. Then finish it off with a complete HP 360 rebuild and you have a rock solid turbo that is 100% bolt on. The price for doing this based on a good core being provided would be $895 + return shipping

     

  9. 1 hour ago, Dat73z said:

     

    The cost of rebuild and upgrade is not insignificant. I believe I was quoted somewhere around $695 before shipping by gpopshop to upgrade the stock 280zx T3 to T3/T04E 50 trim before some other options like ceramic coating, upgraded bearings, etc. but ditched that idea after removing the OEM wastegate housing and finding my turbine side had some significant cracks. You're basically in new turbo territory at that price point. 

     

    Ok, good to know. Glad you have checked on this beforehand. I sent them an email just in case. So basically I can rebuild or just get this: http://www.himni-racing.com/turbochargers/garrett-t-series-journal-bearing/garrett-t3-t04e-stage-iii-turbo-50-trim-450-hp

     

    And end up with a similar price point, but one is new and the other isn't. TBH I was considering the rebuild because I was just worried about getting a fake chinese-Garrett or something haha...

  10. I'm in exactly $5,521.01 just for engine/exhaust mods at the moment 😓 haha so it's not that i don't mind spending a bit, but....

     

    Here is my predicament. I could spend $700 and get a reliable Garrett T3/T4 or non SX Borg Warner that will get me to my power goals. I could also spend $1600 and get a fancy new Garrett with Ball bearings, stainless polish, etc. that will also get me to my power goals. But am I, as a novice mechanic and someone with almost no sports car experience, gonna notice a $900 performance difference between the two? Probably not. Newer turbos are nice, but how those translate to real-world performance (e.g. spooling to full boost takes 1.6 seconds vs. 1.3 seconds) is probably something that insignificant to me as an amateur. I'd rather take that $900 and repair rust on my front fenders. I think so, anyways.... ;)

     

    From another thread, I think I found something that answers my original question...

     

    On 3/17/2014 at 3:45 AM, wigenOut-S30 said:

    I have a Garrett T3/T4E 50 trim with a stage 3 exhaust wheel. I have loved this turbo and it matches the L28ET very well. I get 20 psi around 3K or so depending on what RPM you start at. Boost really does not fall off between shifts and makes good power. I made right at 390-400 wheel HP and 400 lbs TQ on pump at 20psi. Are there better turbo's out there? Yes. but for the price It wasn't worth it to me.  If you have the money, GT30R would be good or a comparable Borg Warner variant.

     

    I also just learned of these guys: http://gpopshop.com/services/rebuilding/

    I think I am gonna use their rebuild/upgrade services to keep it simple. That way I can keep my MSA downpipe which I just put on like 3 weeks ago :) Keepin it simple & "OEM" ish. And it is within a reasonable budget!

  11. efr6258? The $1250+ one? :)

     

    Twin scroll would be sweet but way more involved than I want. There is a high chance I'll just stick with a modest T3/T4 or one of the ones that SeattleJester mentioned. I know it is "older" tech, but it is still better than the stock T3, and will easily get me to 300hp for a reasonable price, internal wastegate, and direct fit.

  12. 4 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

    I think room to grow would be the reason. From my recollection a 57 trim t3/t4 hybrid will get up to 400whp with a big displacement engine, so shouldn't be inefficient at the desired 260-290hp range desired. 

     

    That turbo was exactly what I was looking at before I went BW. The T3/T4 hybrid is still old tech, newer turbos have billet wheels, BW has extended tips, the only requirement that we can't meet here is the internal waste gate unless you start going way up in price, but for a bit more you could swing a pretty gnarly turbo.

     

    I'll have to check your external waste gate if I get the chance. I don't have a lot of capability to make anything custom so I was just trying to be as bolt on as possible. But I certainly would appreciate the newest tech that I can find. I'll start looking at some non T3/T4 options.

     

    I can't see ever wanting 400hp on this car. I don't really have any desire to go above 300hp, so as long as driveability is good that is probably enough for me and maybe I don't need anything super fancy.

  13. 15 minutes ago, Dat73z said:

    Reading through this thread is there a reason why the T3/T4E 57 trim is recommended over the 50 trim? I haven't looked at the compressor maps for a while but I was under the impression that the 50 trim compressor is more ideal for the L28? 

     

    No specific reason in this thread. Only thing I can think of is that maybe 50 trim loses a little too much top end power. Do you have experience with either?

  14. So I have determined that starting to spool at 2400 RPM with full 7 PSI boost by ~2700 RPM (like the stock T3) is probably a little over zealous. I think that achieving full boost closer to 3000-3100 RPM is fine. I was just worried about reducing usable powerband since I have the stock cam and the engine falls off around 5500 RPM.

     

    Sounds like a T3/T4 .57 trim .63 A/R turbo with a stage III wheel would accomplish this from researching many threads around this site.

     

    Something like this: http://www.himni-racing.com/turbochargers/garrett-t-series-journal-bearing/garrett-t3-t04e-stage-iii-turbo-57-trim-475-hp

     

    @Chickenman you mentioned .57 trim in an earlier post... do you have personal experience with using a similar turbo? Are my full boost @ 3000-3100 RPM goals within reason?

  15. 6 hours ago, Chickenman said:

    T3/T4 hybrid with a .57 Trim is a good choice as well. Will easily meet your HP goals with room to spare. Will have a fairly quick spool as well. 

     

     Add a good adjustable FPR to your build sheet. An Aeromotive EFI Bypass regulator part #13129 is  a very good choice. 

     

    You may want to consider jumping direct to 550cc injectors. Get Hi-Impedance injectors. Less hassle than dealing with the MS-2 Low-Z injector drivers, which sometimes can be a bit flaky.

     

    IMHO, buy the 3.57 revision board. Uses Small Scale Integration and is Robotics assembled. Much less chance of human error with assembly ( soldering mistakes primarily ). 

     

    PM me when you need a Tune and setup. I do Remote Tuning and initial setup. Can save you a lot of time and frustration. 

     

    I'm actually getting my MS2 harness built by Softopz up there and he is preloading your tune ;) haha

     

    I stressed over injectors for a while. But I think 440cc should put me right at 80% duty cycle if I go all the way to 300hp, according to this calculator: https://www.raceworks.com.au/calculators/injector-hp-calculator/ Since I already bought them, I'll give them a shot.

     

    image.png.686eab6c4f518a328ece696f712d9b12.png

     

    5 hours ago, seattlejester said:

    Anything under 3.5k spool really doesn't feel too much different to me. Cars with full spool/thresh hold super early on though tend to feel like they have a weak top end unless they are employing trickery via QSV or VVG. Honestly the only time you would notice is if you wanted to pass someone without changing gear, granted even in 6th, I can go from vacuum to boost in a second or so since cruising is at 2500rpm. My turbo spools pretty quick, I've data logged a friend's and his spools higher as his turbo is smaller, less efficient, and he has smaller displacement on a less efficient engine,  but really no complaints in speed or feel. The only two times I've noticed was when we were in top gear trying purposely to find the spool point and another when we were playing with a turbo miata, granted that may be more of a power to weight scenario.

     

    Actually you are right. I was looking through some videos of me accelerating and although boost can happen as low as 2400 RPM, I usually am operating between 3k-5k most of the time I am accelerating. So I might not need to go as low of a spool RPM as I thought. It is not necessarily low-end grunt that I'm after, but I just didn't want the engine to be a dog until it hit like 4000 RPM and then all of a sudden launches forward.

     

    Which Turbo do you have?

  16. I've been reading up on turbos for over 6 hours between today and yesterday 🤪 haha and have gone from zero knowledge to some knowledge. I am a big proponent of "buy once, cry once" methodology and while I am updating a bunch of other stuff on the Z, I am wondering if I should just knock out the turbo as well.

     

    HP Goal: Reliable 260hp-290hp for application that is 99% street

    Torque Goal: 300-310ft/lbs

    Spool RPM: 2400 RPM start with full boost by ~3000 RPM (similar to stock!)

    Wastegate: Internal (don't want to be swapping anything out or fabbing external brackets)

     

    I think 260hp to 290hp is a little high for the stock T3 to feel comfortable. I also don't want to run a ton of PSI if I can help it.


    So far I am installing:

    - 1982 L28ET with stock internals

    - 1978 280z with '78 R200 diff and '78 5-speed transmission

    - Megasquirt 2

    - 240sx 60mm throttle body, 440cc Supra injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump

    - Greddy Intercooler 2.25" piping with HKS BOV

    - 2.5" MSA downpipe to 3" mandrel bent exhaust with straight-through muffler

    - Mishimoto radiator with dual 12" Spal electric fans
     

    If I understand what I have been reading correctly, I want something with a lower A/R. Something around .57? I read on here that a user had a .48 that spooled at 1200RPM. That is probably a little extreme 😄. Not sure about trim. I would like it to be between $500-$800 if possible (no China turbos either).

    So does anyone have any recommendation or experience with a T3/T4 turbo that spools at a similar RPM to stock?

     

    rqyE0bh.jpg

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