Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Chickenman last won the day on August 13 2018

Chickenman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

1 Follower

About Chickenman

  • Rank
    Totally Addicted

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

4580 profile views
  1. One of the interesting things the Audi BT guys are doing is putting a 4" expansion section on the downpipe. This really results in a drop in Exhaust back pressure. Quicker spool and higher WHP. They are transverse mount, so limited by space. But even a shortish ( 12" ) expansion pipe made a noticeable difference. I suspect a 4" downpipe on an L-6 then taper to 3" or 3.5" exhaust would certainly help.
  2. Finally got my 280Z sorted and took it out for an Initial 100 mile Road Tuning session. Went quite well. Ancient Haltech E11 with none of the fancy Tuning aids is certainly a challenge to Tune. But I like a challenge. Good and very powerful ECU... just very basic software. Raw Injector Timing tuning. No VE tables.. Slide Rule and abacus stuff... but it works. What you see is what you get. It's kind of like DOS compared to Windows XP. New stuff is just so much easier... Now to enjoy some cruising on week ends.
  3. Run the MS3 ECU main grounds to the engine. ( As per MS Extra Hardware manual ) . Intake manifold or cylinder head preferred. " Star Ground " the Speed Hut gauges to the same point on the engine as MS ECU ground. Voila. No voltage potential difference. Gauges can be grounded to engine, battery or Chassis. When running as a stand alone gauge it doesn't matter where you ground the gauge. But when tied into an ECU they need to be on the same ground plane. Chassis grounds on 40+ year old Vintage cars are the worst place to ground ECU's and other engine devices. .
  4. Just want to thank all of my past customers and current customers for their support. But I am taking an indefinite break from Remote Tuning. It's turned out to be too successful, so much that I no longer have time for my own projects. I haven't driven worked on my own 280Z in Ages, and I find I'm spending far too many hours staring at Computer screens. So I'm going to take an extended break and enjoy life . Time to travel and enjoy my retirement. I'll be finishing off Tunes and details with past and current customers. But I will not be taking on any new customers in the foreseeable future:. Thank you all for your support. Richard Boyk
  5. Chickenman

    Ms3x install

    Just thinking out loud here. You may ask... " But why would Steve's ignitionbe OK at WOT but not at at low RPM's? " Well, you have to look at Steve's tune and engine combo to understand why. Steve's engine is NA. That makes a big difference. At WOT it is actually easier to fire the plugs than at low loads. WOT has richer mixtures that are easier to fire off than lean mixtures. Steve is also able to run very Lean low speed and Cruise AFR's due to the big spark energy from the GM coils. I believe his last table had a low RPM and Cruise range AFR at 15.0 to one. That's perfectly acceptable with big spark energy. And I believe that Steve is running NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs with a 1.1mm or .041" gap. The combination of Lean mixture ( raises Voltage required to initiate spark ) and wider plug gaps raised the spark plug firing point to more than the damaged insulation in the GM leads could handle. This created a lot of EMI and Triggered the Anti Stall/Auto discharge feature on the GM coils. Thus the low speed misfire. I'm betting it would also be worse on rainy days if Steve took it out in the rain If it was a Turbo car, the leaking plug leads would have been easier to identify ( You had to look at them very closely to see the damage ). Boost raises ignition energy well above what you need with a NA engine at WOT. Magnacore has some excellent articles on HT Lead damage and effects. It doesn't take much to cause a problem.
  6. Chickenman

    Ms3x install

    Additional info to Steve's plight. A lot of the Auto-Discharge issues that you see on different pots are NOT due to excessive dwell. Especially on OEM GM, AC Delco and Delphi coils. Rather it is due to electrical noise or EMI. " D585" coils are particularly sensitive to EMI. Things like leaking plug wires and improper grounding can Trigger the Auto-Discharge feature. Ye you read that right. " Feature "... GM has an " Anti-Stall " algorithm built into the Logic software that will Auto Discharge the the coils if RPM falls too low . It adds timing very quickly to prevent stalling. However, it can also be triggered by electrical noise . This is what I suspect was happening with Steve's engine and the leaky GM wires. Why they failed so quickly is a mystery, but they had text book failure signs. White burn through marks and splits in insulation. I feel that even though the GM leads were stock, the HT leads were bent too sharply on an L-6 install and this stressed the insulation, causing it to fail. On GM LS motors the lead wires have a very gentle curve. Something to think about. BTW, giving credit where credit is due. I found out about the GM " Anti Stall " feature from a very advanced discussion on Ignition systems at EFI university. Paul from Pantera EFI was explaining the D585 auto-discharge problem and posted info on the GM logic coil issues and EMI. Andy Wyatt has also commented on D585 coils sensitivity to EMI. If memory serves me correct, the Pantera EFI coils do not include the Anti Stall algorithm and this makes them much less sensitive to Auto Discharge.
  7. Audi 1.8T or 2.0T. Longitudinal engine out of an Audi A4 or Passat. Rod change and 400 WHP easy peasy. Tons of HP parts available available. Engine strong as a rock, other than Rods. ( Bend over 300 ft.lbs torque ). Lots of good forged rods available. Integrated Engineering make excellent rods. Stock pistons are good up to the 500 BHP range. Transmission. The longitudinal transmission handle up to 800 HP drag Racing. They are AWD so you would have to lock out the front drive stubs. But that should not be too hard. They do it in British Touring Cars with the Audi's. Transform them into RWD.
  8. Chickenman

    Ms3x install

    That's what the heater plate underneath the Valve is for. Circulates hot water under the AAR Valve and keeps it closed when engine is warmed up. Normal operation for AAR valve with out the heater plate. Quite frankly it's never bothered me. Your big problem is you never mounted AAR valve in the stock location, which is the Top of the Intake Manifold. You mounted it on the fender well, which is not the correct location. Engine heat from Intake Manifold alone ( no heater plate ) keeps the AAR Valve quite Warm and Toasty. So it doesn't reset nearly as fast. Engine heat or coolant heat is necessary so AAR valve stays closed when engine is hot. In fact, I've never bothered with the FUGLY coolant " Hot Plate ".... and the Z31 AAR valve works very well mounted to stock location on Intake manifold.
  9. Chickenman

    L28et E11V2

    Shoot me a PM and I'll give you my E-Mail. I Tune Megasquirts , but also Dabble in Haltech's and other ECU's. I have an E11 -V1 for my NA L28. Pretty sure I can come up with something decent.
  10. Chickenman

    Ms3x install

    I'll have to see if my Haltech E11 has any better stepper motor set-up. Might just go with the good ol' AAR valve setup. I've previously used a Z31 AAR valve. Have AC though, so I need an idlle load increase. Might do it with Advanced Idle control. Should be able to trigger some extra idle advance when AC is on.
  11. Req- Fuel is just a number in an equation. Often you need to lower this number to gain more resolution at the Low end as Seattle-Jester mentioned. The MS Low-Z drivers can be flaky. For that reason I always recommend using Hi-Z injectors or Low-Z with resistors. The DIYAutoTune PNP Tunes are really rough from my experience. I'm taking a break from Tuning through December. Juts tying up a couple of loose tunes. But I can certainly do something in the New Year. PM me for contact info.
  12. Ceramic coatings, heat shields and Turbo blankets are not just for performance. Their main function is to decrease the HUGE heat soak problems that the Turbo L-series suffer from. Performance increases are secondary, but nice. Having the Turbo and exhaust manifolds directly under the Intake manifolds is just not ideal at all. Even on a mild build, you will have issues if you do not pay careful attention to heat management. Exhaust manifold and Turbo temps vary little between a 250hp engine and a 400HP engine. Overall heat is very similar.
  13. Carbon Fiber shroud around stock Nissan fan . Insulated fuel lines. Smart cookie this guy 👍
  14. Before you go too far. Get that exhasut manifold off and send it out for Ceramic coating on the exterior. Well worth it. Ceramic coating the Turbine housing when it was at GPop would have been a good idea. But a Good Turbo balnket should suffice. Ceramic coating on downpipe is nice as well. Don't know whose car this is... but VERY well thought out heat management. the custom SS heat shield between Intake and exhaust manifolds is Ceramic blanket insulted on bottom side. Gold reflective foil would work as well. Note even the TIP is insulted.
  15. Another good option, is the Mann Pro-vent system. This is used on Corvettes and many European cars, including BMW. They are a more sophisticated design of my homebuilt oil separator. Stock GM PCV valve can go in line at outlet side. They work very well... but are kind of Butt ugly. The Pro-Vent 200 should suffice. ProVent_en.pdf
  • Create New...