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Chickenman

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Chickenman last won the day on July 31 2019

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About Chickenman

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  1. Haven't been around to this forum in a while Nice to see those numbers. Did you get a chart of the AFR readings?
  2. Just going back to injector wiring for a moment. Yes it's fine to run all injectors off of one Power Lead. But that goes through a Relay direct from the battery. But the ECU triggers injectors by grounding. And you should be using BOTH injector driver banks with that. Even if using Multi Point ( all injectors fire at once ). Batch fire requires one bank of cylinders ( usually 1,2,3, ) firing from Bank A and the other Bank ( 3,4,5 ) firing from Bank B. But remember it's the ground side of the injector drivers that does the triggering. Once you have the injector wirin
  3. Don't think you have a engine internal problem Stephen. Other than possibly a slightly leaking oil seal on #6. But I don't think that is the main issue. Funny, I was just thinking about coils on your FB thread. Seems you had a lot of problems with those COP's. Going single coil with dizzy should be a good way to check to see if its' anything related to the coils. And yes, D585 coils are sensitive to EMI and electrical noise from large ground loops. . It can trigger Auto Discharge. One of the big things is that the Main ground for the GM Coils ( Not the Trigger ground
  4. On our Third Gen Camaro spindles we used to get a lot of spindle flex with Big sticky DOTs and slicks. We used thick walled ( 0.250" wall ) bearing spacers that were machined to slip over the the Bearing spindle with a matched Tapered ID . We used shims to get the preload correct.
  5. You shouldn't need to drill the oil restrictor out at all. Plenty of oil available by Spray Bar system or internal oiling of Camshaft. One caveat, idle speed. With higher pressure springs or ven stock springs with a more aggressive profile, increase idle speed to no less than 1,000 RPM. Local Datsun Engine guru Andy Pearson ( Specialty Engineering ) recommends this on all of his modified engine builds. Since Andy's car have hold 5 SCCA GT3 runoff titles in 5 invites ( An SCCA record ) ... pretty sure he knows what he talking about. BTW, he's done a lot of oil testing
  6. Use the DIY Custom L28ET trigger disc. That will give your the necessary Crank and Home signal to run either Direct COP or WastSpark COP. The LS coils have their own built in Ignitors. So you would NOT install any BIP 373' inside the ECU. The BIP373's are 12 volt DUMB coil igniters by themselves. You need to build Logic Level coil drivers circuits ( Low amperage 0v to 5v ) in the ECU. Read the MSextra Hardware Manual on how to do this. May as well build 6 Logic Levels drivers and use Direct fore COP instead of Waste Spark COP. There are a number of advantages includi
  7. Exactly. Coil secondary output can drop up to 15% with a voltage drop of only 1.0 volt. A correctly operating charging circuit on a Datsun should put out 13.5 volts easily. ALL the way from idle to Redline. At 11.5 volts you could be seeing over a 30% drop in Coil output. European cars typically put out a bit higher voltage. 14.1 to 14.2 volts charging is not uncommon on most European cars since the mid 90's.
  8. Steve Bonk is on FB page Church of L-Series. He normally has a few Don Potter cams for sale. Juts awesome cams if you don't know Don Potters history...
  9. For a true test of ride comfort. drive your Z car from Blaine Washington to Seattle on the I5. Rough concrete with expansion joints for most of the way. Just came back from SOVREN Vintage races at Pacific Raceways. My 76 280Z has front DIY TT3 Coil overs, 250 lb/in Eibachs and Koni Sport Yellow shocks . Rear is " temporarily " Eibach Pro springs ( Don't know rate but they are pretty soft ) with KYB gas struts. Edit: Forgot front Camber plates . Rear temporarily has the front Nissan top insulators installed to lower rear. Will be getting Camber plates as well. Front
  10. Like John M, I also used a Non-Booster equipped Road Race 240Z back in the Day. You have to eliminate the Booster. Make a Custom length Pushrod. Depending on you Pedal effort, you may want to relocate the Clevis Pin hole in the Brake pedal upwards a bit to change the Pedal ratio. About 0.750" to 1.0" is enough. We used a standard 7/8" Master on our ICSCC D-Prod Z . Worked out very well. Good modulation with proper setup.
  11. Getting my own Haltech E11 dialed in. Very powerful ECU ( Full Seq Fuel on a V12 and wasted spark with V12 ) , but old school. No VE Calculation. Uses Raw Injection Time... which took a bit of head scratching to work out. But it's all just Mathematical calculations in the end. Kinda like using DOS... but it works just fine. Think it's an Ozzie thing ( Haltech is Australian based ) as even the latest Hatech's still use Raw Injection Time... plus VE Calculation and Mass Airflow calculation methods of course. Nice to have choice. Dialed it in by driving the same 100 Mi
  12. You can compare the different Haltech ECU's here: https://www.haltech.com/product-overviews/ They also have Videos and a comparison chart. The Elite 1000 has a few more advanced I/O features than the Elite 750, but not as many Inj drivers and coil drivers. The 750 is also cheaper than the 1000 . There is a trade-off between more features or more drivers. There are comparison Charts at Haltech. You may not need the Launch control, Traction Control or Knock control. ( Since the L28 has no knock sensors )
  13. Elite 1000 only has 4 Ignition Drivers and 4 Injection drivers. I would go with the Elite 750. It is purpose built for 6 cylinder engine and will do everything you need. Go to the Haltech Group on FB. Look up Claudio Taverus Peynado . He used to work for Haltech and has his own shop now. He is a Haltech distributor. https://www.facebook.com/groups/haltechtuningandtips/ https://www.haltech.com/product-overviews/
  14. 1: What are you using for Spec Torque? FSM says 87 to 116 Ft Lbs. 87 ft/lbs is NOT enough. Use a new bolt and go to Maximum Torque. Or even a Tad Over. Threads inside and out MUST be cleaned and lubricated with either oil or Loctite. Dirty threads will result in bolt being under torqued and it will not reach it's Stretch or " Plastic " specification. 2: Do you have the correct length Factory bolt with factory thick washer? Washer is very important. Threads will bottom out in crank if you use the wrong washer. 3: Buy a new Factory Nissan bolt. Bolt may have stretc
  15. Link G4+ Storm is also a good alternative. But the Elite 750 is a very nice ECU. I've tuned both... which is one reason I'm getting away from tuning a different " Build it yourself " brand. The difference in quality of a " REAL " ECU is amazing. Haltech and Link just work properly out of the box. Period.
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