Goober

LOL. I have an ground down crank bolt in my garage also. The only question i have for you is have you used a breaker bar with a socket and put it on the crank bold and then bumped the starter to loosen the crank bolt?

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/1083704-car-part-out-lots-stuff-sale.html I dont know if this will help. But i saw it and then read your post on here so i thought it might help.

There is a guy on ls1tech.com selling an ECU for a $100. I will try and find the link for you.

You think if the O2s think the car is running lean it will start to dump fuel into the cylinders causing a miss fire and to top it off you could mess up the rings in the motor if it is running to rich.

from what i have read i dont think it is as strong as chrome. It is a cheap alternative to chrome and can be used in some place. I dont think it should be used in like a high traffic part but for ascent pieces I think it would be good. It like paint in the fact that it will protect the product but if it gets scratched or bent it might crack and chip off.

Beau M you cam make those with minimum tools. Tin snips Straight edge Compass tape measure Clamps air or electric dremel sanding bits I think it is a cool idea. If you take your time you could have it done on the first try. If not your out 10 bucks and you try again. When you get it done you can take pride that you made that part yourself.

Before they come in i would flush the fuel system. Drain tank, clean lines, and new fuel filter. I am still in aww that there was rust in the fuel rail. My car sat for months an i never had a problem with the fuel system. I would just have 02s go out on me like it was going out of style.

holy cow man. I have never heard of or ever seen rust in the fuel rails. I think it is time for you to get a new fuel rail and a new set of injectors.

pinched line?

Now that is the way to do a motor swap. When i did some work on f-body's we could do a motor pull in under an hour.

you can go to any local fab shop or metal supplier to get what you need. I just picked up my 1x3 and 2 1/2x 2 1/2 from a local metal supplier.

Are a you sure that you are getting a good vacuum to the booster. Are all of you vacuum lines in good shape or are they dried out and rotted. I am assuming that you are not going though any brake fluid.

Is the motor turn key or does it need some work. If you are unsure on what parts you need you can go to http://www.brokenkitty.com/ and get the parts you need for the swap. You will also need to remember you will need a fuel pump, starter, gauge work, and pittly little stuff that no one remembers to get until you need it.

Why do you need the McLeod bellhousing. You could sell it for some extra cash. Check and see if you could just use an ls1 bellhousing to mate the t56 to the ls1.

http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/65083/catid/8057_8602/Door_Panel_Inner_Glass_Fuzzy__70_78__Coupe___new

i do agree. But if you can rebuild the frame rails and do floor pans i dont see why you can make your own headers as long as you have pipe bender our you could always modify a set of headers or you could get you a set of shortys. Im going to go to a speed shop so i can test fit different brands of headers

just found these and i think this is what im going to use. I like the way it can mount right on the frame rails and it is adjustable in the distance from the frame rails. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD-4506&N=700+115&autoview=sku

well i know you can get an lsx motor that is a sb 454. I dont think you will have a problem with motor size, it will be if the car can handle the motor.

im in the same boat as you are. IM am in the prosses of replacing the frame rails and subframes. Im looking into how to mount the motor and i just found this post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116837&highlight=motor+mounts Not sure but i think this is how im going to mount my motor or something close to it. I wont use poly though i will just use rubber so the motor will move a little more but in hopes it wont shake the car as much

Looks good man.

Looking good Scott

To check if it is an injector problem find someone that is willing for you to remove there fuel rail and injectors and install them on your car. It is just 4 bolts, 8 connectors, and one fuel rail disconnect. But if that doesn't work. Are you running O2 extensions? This is a problem very few people people have but it does happen. The voltage is dropping as it runs thought the extra length of the cable. I have read that the code can be turn off and the car should run like it used to. P.s. check to see if it is the wiring has been burned or chewed up. This happened to me. a while ago.

Swap the front O2s for the rear ones. O2's are not cheap so try to make do with what you have. I have 1 never been used still in the box O2. It is the squire connection found on the F-body no the rectangle connection found on the Vette.

O i forgot to mention this. For some damn reason O2 censers go out if they sit exposed to air for long periods of time. I had the same problem with my car a while back. Every 6 months i was going though O2's They can also go bad if your car is running pig rich. Like 10:1 or more.

From what you are saying it is an O2 problem not a fuel problem. Are you getting low voltage readings from bank 1 censer 1 and bank 2 censer 1.