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Roberts280Z last won the day on July 5

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  1. While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a snug fit by filing the sides to fit. I hope this helps somebody else with this problem. R
  2. I think this is a vacuum solenoid, used to interrupt the vacuum to the vacuum advance on the distributor. The vacuum line on the right of your picture goes to the vacuum canister, via a T fitting that would be in the lower left of your picture. The unconnected fitting goes to your vacuum advance on the distributor. I can't find any direct discussion of this in the FSM, but I've looked at mine, and at related items in the FSM, where it is described (I think) as a 'vacuum switch solenoid', or 'vacuum cuiting solenoid', and is used in M/T non-CA models.
  3. My tach was erratic and sticking. I removed it and cleaned it up so that it no longer sticks. I've tried to test it before re-installation with a square-wave generator, but my results are inconsistent. Does anyone have a schematic of the internal workings of the tach? Thanks, Robert
  4. Fortunately, mine wasn't nearly that bad. Yours looks a lot like the photos from tim.d, mentioned in his earlier post. I've moved on to my doors and liftgate, which are rusted in their lower areas. I'll be starting another thread concerning how best to fix the rusted lip surrounding the liftgate opening.
  5. I'm replacing all the original rubber, and was considering black-powder coating window frames, drip rails, chrome strips, etc. Then I saw that I can buy the windshield/hatch rubber without the lips for the metal strip ("Cal Style"?). Also, the prices for the rubber are all over the map, from $50 to $180 ea for windshield or hatch. I found a 14-yr old thread on here about this, but wondered if anyone had more recent experience they would comment on.
  6. I have a Northern Tool 135 MIG. Don't even try the flux-core around the Datsun sheet metal. Find a source for the shielding gas - it's not as common as you might think. Airgas near me won't do the small bottles anymore - I go to Praxair. Find a source for the metal. I use 18 ga. which is slightly thicker than the original metal. So far, my patching is mostly butt-welding. Practice that on the metal you bought, leap-frogging until the stitches are continuous, then grind it down to see if it looks like one, solid bit of metal. Get a $50 grinder rather than a $15 grinder. Watch every Youtube that you can, and watch the Velocity shows where they do similar work. I couldn't readily find any local 'hobby' training; the community college stuff is more career-oriented (have you seen what they make?!!). If you read my other posts, you'll see I actually have no experience at all, except on my Z. But I think you may be in the same position as me. There is no way you can cost-justify professional welding.
  7. Thanks for the interest, Jughead. This is where I am now. I cut out the green-outlined section from the Tabco rocker and welded in. I fabricated the blue-outlined 'armpit' section and welded in. Then I covered the rear, pink-outlined, section with the lower part of a Tabco patch panel. I've spent the last few weeks on another car, but will come back to this after I get another bottle of shielding gas. I've still got the door bottoms and tailgate bottom to do, plus join up the floor bottom frame rails to the remaining front frame rails.
  8. Ha! My welding and fab experience has been gained solely from this Datsun! So far I've fab'ed and welded in patches for the top fronts of both front fenders, and a couple of other places, and welded in the driver's side floor and rail. I think I'll just continue with the passenger side floor while I ponder more on the rocker. I'm not in any big hurry - I've been at it on this car for over a year, and I just retired totally a couple of months ago so I have even more time now. This Z might not be worth restoring, but I bought it new in '76, and feel guilty about letting it turn to crap. It is a bit concerning that the tim.d photos don't show much worse damage in the rocker sill area than mine. I'll cut away more of the sill with the initial thought that I can just patch that area, which will also give me a better look at what's beneath. But so far what I see looks good. BTW thanks tim.d for those photos - I've seen plenty of floor pan videos and photos, but hadn't seen your rocker photos before.
  9. Thanks for that. Yeah, the rocker bottom looks good. If I hadn't already bought the panel, I would just make some patches like you say. I'm new to this kind of work, and sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious to me.
  10. I bought a Tabco rocker panel, thinking originally that I would just replace the whole thing. But now I'm thinking I'll have less work, and do a better job, if I just replace the sections that need it (sill area), using the Tabco part as donor. Thanks in advance
  11. Thanks guys, I think I was literally looking at this from the wrong angle. Parts of the floor pan will be easier to remove from underneath. I should have realized that last night while drilling out some of the seat bracket-to-floor pan spot welds from underneath, but my arm was so tired it was about to fall off.
  12. I have seen this topic briefly mentioned, and also seen a 240Z video showing this. I think the seat bracket mounting is different between the 240Z and 280Z. If it is possible, I would like to leave the brackets in place. I've started removing the floor, and I'm not yet sure if it is possible to remove the floor pan spot welds to the inner rocker panel in the vicinity of the seat brackets. Thanks in advance
  13. I see - thanks. I suppose glue makes more sense there for stopping rattles.
  14. I have the fenders off from my '76 280Z for some rust repair. There are some pads that support the outer fender that appear to originally have been covered with some kind of foam or padding. Does anybody know what this was originally, or what could be used as a replacement?
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