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Roberts280Z last won the day on July 5 2020

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  1. My clock did not 'tick'. I replaced a transistor and some capacitors, and carefully oiled it using proper clock oil. So, if yours ticks, take it apart and see what's wrong with the gears.
  2. After having previous poor satisfaction from a dash cap, I decided to try the Polyvance method. I had three crack areas: The middle area went all the way through the foam. I followed the exellent instructions as given in the Polyvance video, and in their step-by-step instruction. I widened all the cracked areas, and in the large middle crack, I used their FiberFlex to weld in a mesh backing plate. This shows one of the smaller cracks after filling with FiberFlex: After sanding the filled areas, I applied
  3. Yeah, well a rottisserie is next on my shopping list after a lift (I wish...). I just love welding on my back. It looks like to me that the caulking failed around the bottom of the pocket liner. With the failure of the outer hatch weatherstrip, that allowed water to pool on the inner hatch weatherstrip rail, and then seep under the pocket liner into the pocket itself. Also note that the spare-tire well was nearly full to the brim with rainwater, but there was absolutely no rust there!
  4. I guess I'll try to weld in some sheet metal there. I've avoided glassing this far (rusted fenders, rockers, floor panels, door bottoms, etc., etc.). And if I could talk to myself 10 or 20 years ago, I would have told me to keep it in the garage!
  5. After I noticed rust on the interior at the rear part of the roof at the hinge pockets, I removed the hatch hinges and saw this mess. This doesn't look like an easy area to weld in, and the replacement pocket would not be an easy fab job. As an alternative, I'm thinking of just cleaning it up, applying POR, and then lining the pocket with fiberglass. The other pocket is not quite as bad, but is also rusted through. Has anyone else dealt with this area? Thanks in advance, Robert
  6. While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a
  7. I think this is a vacuum solenoid, used to interrupt the vacuum to the vacuum advance on the distributor. The vacuum line on the right of your picture goes to the vacuum canister, via a T fitting that would be in the lower left of your picture. The unconnected fitting goes to your vacuum advance on the distributor. I can't find any direct discussion of this in the FSM, but I've looked at mine, and at related items in the FSM, where it is described (I think) as a 'vacuum switch solenoid', or 'vacuum cuiting solenoid', and is used in M/T non-CA models.
  8. My tach was erratic and sticking. I removed it and cleaned it up so that it no longer sticks. I've tried to test it before re-installation with a square-wave generator, but my results are inconsistent. Does anyone have a schematic of the internal workings of the tach? Thanks, Robert
  9. Fortunately, mine wasn't nearly that bad. Yours looks a lot like the photos from tim.d, mentioned in his earlier post. I've moved on to my doors and liftgate, which are rusted in their lower areas. I'll be starting another thread concerning how best to fix the rusted lip surrounding the liftgate opening.
  10. I'm replacing all the original rubber, and was considering black-powder coating window frames, drip rails, chrome strips, etc. Then I saw that I can buy the windshield/hatch rubber without the lips for the metal strip ("Cal Style"?). Also, the prices for the rubber are all over the map, from $50 to $180 ea for windshield or hatch. I found a 14-yr old thread on here about this, but wondered if anyone had more recent experience they would comment on.
  11. I have a Northern Tool 135 MIG. Don't even try the flux-core around the Datsun sheet metal. Find a source for the shielding gas - it's not as common as you might think. Airgas near me won't do the small bottles anymore - I go to Praxair. Find a source for the metal. I use 18 ga. which is slightly thicker than the original metal. So far, my patching is mostly butt-welding. Practice that on the metal you bought, leap-frogging until the stitches are continuous, then grind it down to see if it looks like one, solid bit of metal. Get a $50 grinder rather than a $15 grinder. Watc
  12. Thanks for the interest, Jughead. This is where I am now. I cut out the green-outlined section from the Tabco rocker and welded in. I fabricated the blue-outlined 'armpit' section and welded in. Then I covered the rear, pink-outlined, section with the lower part of a Tabco patch panel. I've spent the last few weeks on another car, but will come back to this after I get another bottle of shielding gas. I've still got the door bottoms and tailgate bottom to do, plus join up the floor bottom frame rails to the remaining front frame rails.
  13. Ha! My welding and fab experience has been gained solely from this Datsun! So far I've fab'ed and welded in patches for the top fronts of both front fenders, and a couple of other places, and welded in the driver's side floor and rail. I think I'll just continue with the passenger side floor while I ponder more on the rocker. I'm not in any big hurry - I've been at it on this car for over a year, and I just retired totally a couple of months ago so I have even more time now. This Z might not be worth restoring, but I bought it new in '76, and feel guilty about letting it turn to crap.
  14. Thanks for that. Yeah, the rocker bottom looks good. If I hadn't already bought the panel, I would just make some patches like you say. I'm new to this kind of work, and sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious to me.
  15. I bought a Tabco rocker panel, thinking originally that I would just replace the whole thing. But now I'm thinking I'll have less work, and do a better job, if I just replace the sections that need it (sill area), using the Tabco part as donor. Thanks in advance
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