twoeightythreez

this is my project on the impalassforum. http://www.impalassf...ad.php?t=326185 It is a 1992 olds custom cruiser that i swapped to a HM-290 (NV3500) 5-speed. Its relevance here is that i am considering repowering it with an LD28 that i will turbo, the goal being good fuel mileage. I think it is possible to boost the. LD and get comparable power to the stock TBI 350 (180hp@3600,300lb/ft@3200). Keep in mind its just an idea and dont try to talk me out of it My question is finding an adaptor plate to adapt the NV3500 to the L series. I've found kits that ironically go the other way. I know i could get a 280zx-t bell and use a T5 but if im gonna buy another transmission It will be a T-56 (attatched to a LSx).The ratio spread in the HM290 imo is good for a small turbo diesel, plus i already modded the car to fit it, the shifter location is VERY far forward. The HM290 has an integral bellhousing. Gen1 chev pattern. So, my options, if i keep my current trans, are: 1) forget the idea 2) put in a 6.2 gm diesel (but they inly had like 90hp as well,idk if mileage gains would be substantial and there would be no room for a turbo) 3) vortec 8.1 and gas mileage be damned lol 4) Adaptor plate and flywheel spacer(i would like to keep the stock gm flywheel and clutch if possible) Anyone here into possibly making me an adaptor?

Hi all, this is my project on the impalassforum. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=326185 It is a 1992 olds custom cruiser that i swapped to a HM-290 (NV3500) 5-speed. Its relevance here is that i am considering repowering it with an LD28 that i will turbo, the goal being good fuel mileage. I think it is possible to boost the. LD and get comparable power to the stock TBI 350 (180hp@3600,300lb/ft@3200). Keep in mind its just an idea and dont try to talk me out of it My question is finding an adaptor plate to adapt the NV3500 to the L series. I've found kits that ironically go the other way. I know i could get a 280zx-t bell and use a T5 but if im gonna buy another transmission It will be a T-56 (attatched to a LSx).The ratio spread in the HM290 imo is good for a small turbo diesel, plus i already modded the car to fit it, the shifter location is VERY far forward. The HM290 has an integral bellhousing. Gen1 chev pattern. So, my options, if i keep my current trans, are: 1) forget the idea 2) put in a 6.2 gm diesel (but they inly had like 90hp as well,idk if mileage gains would be substantial and there would be no room for a turbo) 3) vortec 8.1 and gas mileage be damned lol 4) Adaptor plate and flywheel spacer(i would like to keep the stock gm flywheel and clutch if possible) Anyone here into possibly making me an adaptor?

Thank you! Speaking of kids...the last time the former owner used this car he had his daughter with him on a trip...then the car sat for years till I bought it......when I cleaned it out I found my purchase also included a disney princess book and markers.....(which was a plus for me since I'm an "aladdin" fan and it was a jasmine book......so it got added to my collection.=).

The FS5R30A trans is the same one that's been adapted to the VH45 so I think it should hold up to the buick, no?

1-I have the nissan trans and two nissan transfer cases? (But neither is divorced) 2-I won't have to fab shifters, clutch linkages (I don't know of a hydraulic BUICK bellhousing do you?), driveshafts and trans crossmembers? I'm already gonna have to fab an oil pan (to clear the front diff) and motor mounts 3) if I'm gonna go buy a chevy trans and transfer I may as well buy one with a chev motor attached I really wanna try to use what I have. Thank u for the suggestion though!

Hi all, just want some input on getting a trans adaptor made. I want to put my 1972 buick 350 into my 1991 4cyl Hardbody 4x4, the trans blew...so I bought a V6 parts truck but now I'm thinking if I'm gonna go through all this trouble, I wanna put the V8 in....but I want to keep a manual transmission. I can't find an adaptor for the TX10 transfer case to any manual transmission, so I was thinking of just using the FS5R30A trans that comes with the 6cyl. The Buick is just a stock rebuild with a mild cam upgrade (guessing around 300hp and 350lb ft on a good day) I think that the trans should hold up as long as I don't do stupid stuff like drop the clutch in low range, what do you guys think? I really, really don't want to go to an automatic, they are no fun. As far as I know, the transfer case will easily tolerate teh power and the rear is the H233b...so I don't think a 350 is even gonna faze it. (The 455 I also have is another story, but I'll get to that later...lol) Thank you for any inputs or suggestions....The buick is 2" shorter than a chev 350 which has been installed in these trucks so i KNOW it will fit Bryan

Hi all! I know it's been forever since I've been on this forum but decided to look up some tech info for my next project (i'm gonna put a buick 350 in my hardbody 4x4 ) But while I'm here I decided to put up some pics of my convertible. I don't have many yet (busy) but will get some vids. It's a bone stock R33 Rb25, bolted to an RB20 tranny. I made all the mounts myself and wired it myself. So far it's a sleeper and a half (there is absolutely NO indication of what's under the hood)...it's a hoot! There are no extra gauges, the tach and speedo work like OEM (and read right too!)...it just looks like a beat up, 204,000 mile import with an XS power exhaust on it...lol Go hybrids!

cool! I still miss my Z but my RB25 powered 240 convertible makes up for it

Buick 455 is actually not much larger than a buick 350...it's a little longer because the bore spacing is wider (it's needed because of the 4.315 stock bore size...buick 350 has 3.800 bore) It's really a non issue anyway because a buick 455 is much much smaller outside than say, a VH45DE, and that's been put in S30's now.

Those two posts and I know it sounds stupid but make sure your fuel send and return aren't reversed...lol...that will definitely do it! It's happened to me more than once on multiple cars...you go through and troubleshoot everything and start hittin your head and then you finally realize the the fuel send is on the FPR, DOH! Once you do get it running you might have to "tweak" the spring tension on the AFM...these cars were set up to run ultra lean.....and as an engine gets older and worn out they need a richer mixture to run right. This only applies once it's running because the trick I'm telling you will basically adjust idle mixture. If you're careful you can pry the plastic cover off the AFM. Inside you will see the counterweight for the flapper, and a toothed wheel that houses the clockspring. The spring tension is held with a setscrew and pawl. Start the engine, and then Loosen the setscrew while holding the wheel...you don't want to let it unwind Slowly decrease the tension on the clockspring (you will probably advance it about 3 teeth if you car is like mine was) until the idle smooths out. (you are basically fooling the ECU into thinking the engine is ingesting more air than it is...) Tighten the setscrew and replace the plastic cover (you will have to put a dab of gasket glue in place so it doesn't fall off)....

Search under "megasquirt". I did a MS swap into my 280z (when I had it) and used the turbo dizzy. I have the pinouts there, as do other people. I used the stock Z engine harness with the MS .

The only problem I can possibly see is with that T-5. Hope it holds up for ya awhile.

How about running EDIS and getting rid of big, tall, and ugly (distributor) entirely? Lol it will run (fixed @ 10deg btdc) w/o a computer.....as in you can get it running and then worry about the computer. You could use a megasquirt to control it (then if you go EFI later you are set-up already) or I'm sure you can locate a mega-spark module (predecessor to megasquirt, stand alone EDIS control)

Engine Xmember done. Uses 1968-1972 buick 350 into GM A body mounts. Remember I said my friend was gonna weld them up? Well, he never did and I was forced to buy a welder and make it myself. I don't think it's too bad for my first crossmember. It's made up of 2" square tubing, plated with 1/8" mild steel. The crossmember weighs twice what it did stock. I think it should be strong enough, even though I can't prove it till it runs becase I'm no engineer. Here's some pics of it in the car. Pics of it mounted in the engine bay coming soon. I made spacers and also lowered the center of the xmember, so the engine now will only SLIGHTLY hit the hood... Here's a video I made

I didn't use a relay board, either, I used the factory fuse box and relays on my 280z (which is no longer mine), I'm also going to use the factory (relocated to the trunk) fusebox and relays on my MS-II, EDIS, VH41-powered 240sx, too. (so far have the fusebox relocated but not much else, too many projects. Pics will come along eventually. I don't understand why everybody doesn't just use the factory fuseboxes, esp. in more modern cars, it's there, it's engineered for automotive use, already has all the fuses and relays you need, and if you can wire up all this custom stuff the car's wiring is obviously no mystery to you. Still admiring the cleanliness of your wiring, mr. cygnus. A lot! If I actually get a few nice days where there isn't "something else to do" I'll get some pics of my 240's wiring mess and the eventual clean up...lol (the underhood area is much nicer, now, but the interior is spaghetti.....) I still have to procure another megasquirt unit...and actually finish mounting the engine first. Sorry to get a bit off topic.........