Sean73

I have always wondered this. On stock L28ETs, the air regulator gets air from the ~1/2" nipple on the J-pipe. On NA cars, the air regulator gets air from the intake (after the afm). Since the air regulator is only relevant during warm-up idle (off boost), then theoretically, it should behave the same on a NA car as a turbo car. So what explains the nipple on the J-pipe?

I have a Maxima N47 for sale. It has a mild performance cam, and stock valves. I ran it on an L24 and it ran great. Then I got the turbo bug so I must sell. Oh, the head only has about 500 miles on the rebuild. Asking $275. I am in Tucson. I have receipts for the cam and all machine work totalling about $500. Email me if interested.

I did what the article on Zhome.com said and it worked.

Here's the deal, raising fuel pressure increases fuel flow. Adding boost coupled with fuel flow to support it will increase HP. Therefore, it is indeed possible that a RRFPR could add 15-25 HP, but it depends on boost level, intercooler efficiency and a variety of other factors. You don't just bolt the thing on, turn up the boost, and expect positive results. It's not that simple. Like others have said, you must tune on a dyno. Don't be offended by this comment, but you are definitely in over your head. I tell everyone to read Maximum Boost cover to cover before doing anything above stock on a turbo motor. You just can't rely on heresy, anecdotes, and company advertisements to give you any indication of results. Once you become educated on turbocharging, the path leading you to your power goals will become crystal clear.

Never install a new alternator on a weak battery! Charge the battery first before you do anything, or you'll fry your new alternator. Better yet, have your battery tested by sears or autozone.

I converted to internally regulated with the instructions in the technical articles at Zhome.com. It's only a few wires, and a diode. There's not much to it.

Did you replace the voltage regulator? That's probably what's causing the shaky needle. My charging system never worked right until I switched to an internally regulated alternator.

I bought the MSD-2222 from Summit for $52.69. This regulator is made by Bosch, and is OEM on some German cars. The adjustability range is 36-45 psi. Some quick math will tell you how much flow you can gain from this, and consequently, more boost. 45 psi /36 psi = 1.25 (1.25)^1/2 = (1.118 - 1) * 100 = 12% So, knowing fuel flow is proportional to pressure squared, a 25% increase in pressure yields a 12% gain in fuel flow. In a perfect world: 12% more fuel flow ~= 12% more boost ~= 12% more HP So, if you're starting to lean out at 9 psi (pressure ratio = 1.61) then you can expect to be able to run ~11-12 psi (pressure ratio = 1.80) with the extra fuel. Your individual results may vary, depending on turbo efficiency, IC effeciency, injector condition, and fuel pump capacity. In any case, it's helpful to know where your ceiling is with the extra fuel. I like the simplicity of the 1:1 adjustable regulators, because they are very predictable and simple to adjust. I installed the MSD-2222 directly in the stock location on the stock fuel rail. I had to make a custom bracket out of sheet metal, but it was no big deal.

I have a rebuilt maxima head, if you're interested. It has a mild cam from Delta Camshafts (260 duration). I ran it for about 500 miles and it ran very strong. However, I got the turbo bug, so I am going to sell it. I have receipts to prove all the work. Asking $300 + shipping. Let me know if you're interested. Buying it this way will save you a ton of time and money in the long run.

bastaad525 I don't think you'll benefit much from the S-AFR with your current setup, even if you can get it to work with the 83 ECCS. Reason being, is your boost level is limited by 1) lack of intercooler. 2) stock injectors. The S-AFR will not do anything special but give you some tunability within the limits of the stock ECU and injectors. To fully benefit from the S-AFR, you'll need lots of dyno tuning, which will cost more than the S-AFR itself. If I were you, I would go about things in this order: 1) install intercooler (and a/f gauge if you don't already have one). 2) turn up the boost and try not to lean out. 3) dump the 2.5" press bent exhaust for 3" mandrel system. 3) drive for a while, work out the bugs, then get a dyno. 4) Your dyno and a/f graph will tell you where you are, and where you can go. You may need to fix stock EFI items before pushing power any further. Remember, your injector-imposed HP limit is ~270 HP (crank). The S-AFR will not add anything to this, because at ~270 crank HP, your injectors are at 100% duty cycle. In order to make it to this level without detonating (on pump gas), you need an intercooler. 5 - 6) If you're leaning out at the top end, an adjustable FPR would help. Let's say you set the static FP at 44 psi. Then you might run a little rich on the low-end -- which is something correctable by the S-AFR 7) Later on, you may want to get a big turbo and big injectors. That's also something the S-AFR could help you accomodate. Don't get me wrong, the S-AFR looks like a nice unit (I have one, yet to be installed). I bought it on a whim on Ebay for $150 (new), thinking that eventually I'll be running big injectors. Sean 73 240Z. 5 spd, L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR IC, 84 ECCS

Yo2001 On your 87 ECU, how does the ECU know when to pull timing? Does it have a boost sensor? Or is it RPM triggered? My 84 turbo ECCS schematic does not have a boost sensor.

I was thinking about going with a 2mm headgasket to drop compression a little bit on my flattop L28. The only thing that worries me is the actual installation. It seems like it's going to be a PIA to get the cam sprocket back on with head being higher up with repect to the block. Any first hand experience?

Is anyone out there running this type of setup? I read in an earlier thread that these fuel computers won't work with the S130 ECCS, but what about the Z31 ECCS? I see the MSA catalogue sells a HKS PFC F-CON for the Z31, so some of my question is already answered. But what about the less expensive programmable units like the APEX Super AFR, Greddy E-Manage, or APEX Super AFC-II? These units can be had for under $300. If they could work with the Z31 ECCS, it could be the cheapest way to accurately control bigger injectors for high boost applications short of going all out for fully programmable ECU. Sean 73 240Z, L28ET, T3/T04E, 84 ECCS, NPR IC

When I get this thing running I'll have a full website of articles. For someone like me who is building a turbo motor from scratch, and installing it in a 240Z, it makes very little difference to use the Z31 harness, ECU etc... compared to the S130 harness ECU, etc... Both harnesses are fairly self-contained, and require very little wiring to integrate into the 73 240Z. Wire lengths of the Z31 and S130 are different, but it makes no difference to me because I'm splicing new connectors everywhere anyway. I'm in a much easier position to make mods now compared to someone that has already done a turbo swap, and wants to make the Z31 ECCS switch. Even if there is little or no HP gain with the Z31 ECCS, I would still do it anyway, to get rid of that s130 AFM, which is a hulk. The Z31 MAF is nice and portable and I won't have any problems with installing it. I also noticed that some Maxima's use the same MAF, which makes it easy to get spares at the junkyard. I'm also using 84 Z31 Turbo injectors, which are the same as the 280ZX turbo injectors, but newer because of the recall campaign (1995, I think). I got 270 cc out of these injectors on a test bench.

I just got the whole engine wiring harness out of a 84 Z31 turbo. Then, I took the wiring harness inside the house, and checked every connection (using the wiring diagram in Chiltons). It made for a good project in front of the TV. I deleted unneccessary wires, and cut off all the connectors. Now the harness is cleaned up and installed in the car, with the ECU on the driver's side kick panel. The wires were way too long, which is a good thing, I'll trim them down to a precise fit and re-splice the connectors. Granted the car is not running yet, I am happy I did it this way. By custom tailoring the wiring harness, I know every wire and where it goes, which will make troubleshooting easier, and eliminate surprises. Like SleeperZ said, the Chiltons manual is the way to go, because it has the wiring diagrams for all Z's 1970-88. I copied the 73 and 84 wiring diagrams, and pasted them together, then drew lines to the connection points. I can imagine that modifying an 81-83 wiring harness to accept the Z31 ECU is complicated enough that your not going to find a cookbook procedure in these forums. The wiring diagrams will illuminate what you need to do. Sean 73 240Z L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR IC, 84 ECCS, Custom DP, 3" Exhaust.

Just having built a new L28ET, I'm interested in the "proper" break in procedure as well. I've read a lot of break-in information, and some of it I find hard to believe. For one, why does mileage have anything to do with seating the rings properly? Rings don't see mileage - they see RPM and load. So, one could conclude that a low-revving Chevy V8 would have a different break-in period compared to a hi-revving Ducati motorcycle. Secondly, if mileage was the rule of thumb for break-in, then one could conclude that taking a 1500 mile highway trip would complete the break-in. That would be the worst possible method of break-in, because at highway cruising speed, the engine is not under load. Consequently, the rings aren't pressing against the cylinder walls as firmly as possible. The same holds true if you drive around too gently - the rings won't seat that way. If you drive the car too gently during break in- what's going to happen when you turn up the boost? The rings will see a heat and pressure environment that they have not been subjected to before. Will the ring seal provided during the 5 psi break-in be adequate for 15 psi of boost? It doesn't make sense to me to subject the rings to an operating environment that doesn't reflect normal driving. It also does not make sense to me that a motor needs 500 or 1500 miles of driving to be "broken in". By then, the motor has turned over a million times. I highly doubt that the cylinder walls and rings are so hardened that it takes a million revolutions for the microscopic ridges of metal to mate against each other. I believe the first few minutes of driving are the most critical in engine break in (I'm not the only one that believes this), and then it probably drops off exponentially with time (thats my theory atleast). When I first fire up my motor, I'll warm it up and take it for a spin. I'll subject it to a variety of conditions by varying load, rpm and boost in a systematic way. A country road with lots of curves will be perfect. Sean 73 240Z, L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR IC, 84 Z31T ECCS, 3" Exhaust (build in progress)

On my T3/T04E turbo, I had to make a custom wastegate bracket and actuator arm. Does anyone have any feel for how much tension I should set the actuator arm at for the first run? For now, I set the arm so the flapper is slightly tight against the WG hole. I will be using a manual boost controller. Also, has anyone tried running compressed air to the WG actuator as a test? I'd like to make sure my custom actuator arm can go through it's full range of motion, and open the flapper completely. I don't want boost creep. Sean 73 240ZT, L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR IC, 84 Z31T ECCS, 3" mandrel exhaust. (build in progress, almost ready to run)

I have a used set of L28ET piston/rods that need cleaning. Make an offer. Sean

The E31 has small valves which could limit breathing. How much , I don't know. You could swap the cam to a L28 head (N42, P79, P90), and all of your EFI hardware will bolt right up.

I don't think you'll realize any performance gain over a stock L28. In fact, you may lose power compared to the stock L28 unless you seriously modify the E31, or change pistons. Also, you can't judge the condition of a cylinder head just on appearance. The valve guides, seats, seals, and springs all will need thorough inspection. It would cost a minimum of 400 at a machine shop to have the head checked out and refurbished to OEM specs. The L28ET block and dished pistons aren't suitable for an NA application. Your better off installing the L28ET and getting a turbo wiring harness, ECU , AFM & other EFI accessories needed for the turbo swap. Alternatively, get flattop pistons and use the P90 head - that would be a decent combo, but more or less stock.

I need some input from you guys on which way is best to clock the turbo on my newly built L28ET with t3/t04E turbocharger. Here are my ideas: 1) I like clockiing the turbo compressor outlet upward (like stock configuration), because I can use the stock J-tube during the break-in period, and it will simplify things and get me on the road quicker. However, I will be installing an intercooler at some point. 2) An NPR intercooler is going in eventually, so I wonder if there are any advantages to pointing the compressor outlet towards the ground. I can see in some circumstances, it may simplify IC plumbing, but I don't know for sure. The other advantage I can see is that the wastegate actuator will be easier to mount without the compressor outlet being in the way. Maybe the IC plumbing will look cleaner too. Does anyone have any opinions on this? Thanks. Sean 73 240Z, L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR IC, '84 Z31T ECCS

On a stock 280ZX Turbo, the idle is controlled by the ECU, which tells the vacuum control modulator (thing attached to the AFM) to open/close the AAC valve (saucer thing on intake), to meter the correct amount of air to maintain a constant idle. Off idle the AAC should remain closed, because you don't need it when you're on the gas. If you eliminate the AAC on the intake, then you need some other way of controlling idle: 1) a screw on the throttle body, or 2) a bypass valve with adjustment screw (comes stock on some NA 280ZXs). This is what people do when they use the clean non-EGR 280Z intake, which doesn't have a slot for the ZXT AAC. The thing I don't understand, is why does the AAC and air regulator need to draw air from the J-Pipe? Since the devices are only relevant at idle, why not just get air from a hose after the AFM?

Maximum boost recommends keeping velocity below 450 ft/sec for intercooler pipes. Here are my calculations for 2.25" pipe (2.125 ID): Airflow = 600 CFM (400 HP) 600 ft^3 / minute 1 min / 60 sec ----------------- -------- PI(2.125/ 2)^2 (ft / 12")^2 = 362 ft/sec So, atleast according to Corky, 2.25 intercooler pipe should be ok for most turbo'd Zs.

Speaking of intercooler plumbing- I am buying it all right now for my 240ZT w/ NPR, and it's not fun! It will cost around $150 just for the silicon connectors and clamps. Those transition connector$ - ouch. Then about $100 for the mandrel bends in aluminized steel. The NPR cost me less than actually hooking it up! Sean73 240ZT in progress L28ET, T3/T04E, NPR, Z31 ECCS