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Everything posted by Jughead

  1. Hi all, Does anyone have a bench testing procedure for a stock '72 240Z radio? I'm hoping to get the radio in my '72 240z working. I've removed the radio and found some burned/corroded speaker wires which I've sorted out. The antenna switch works fine (goes up and down with the switch). The blue light does NOT turn on. The radio is a Hitachi KM-152OZC. I just saw one on eBay for $2,000, so yeah, I'd like to fix mine. THANKS!
  2. Itball: I'm curious to know how this issue resolved itself, as I currently have the exact same issue. Did you fix the gap? How'd you do it? Thanks! Jughead
  3. Zed-Heads: Requesting your help with my '72 240Z! I'm installing a Tabco outer rocker panel on the driver-side. The old outer rocker had rust at the front and back but was mostly intact when I removed it, and it came off cleanly by drilling out the spot welds. The inner rocker is clean and solid. I’m pretty sure nothing shifted in the process. The original floor panels were not touched and are still intact. The car is on jack stands at the seatbelt cups in back, and in front at the steering “compression rod” mounts. (I did not weld bars in the stabilize everything. Maybe I should have?) I trial fit the new rocker panel using clecos. The flat (horizontal) top of the new rocker panel fits snugly under the front door post where the old spot-welds were. The rear end of the panel fits nicely under the door jam piece just in front of the dogleg. I cannot move the new panel any higher. Now the issue: I reinstalled the door to check the fit and there is a half-inch gap between the top of the new rocker panel and the bottom edge of the door, and there is a similar gap width at the rear edge of the door. What am I missing? What should I try? Should I take the car off the jacks? Does the door need shims or adjustment? Let me know what pictures I should post! Thanks!! PS - Please message me directly as the "Reply" button is not working!
  4. Jughead

    rusted hatch slam panel

    I fell (felt) your pain. Here are pics of my rear hatch repair journey - presented for reference and posterity. There was VERY little rust evident when I started. Then I picked a paint flake. I used 3M body panel adhesive and a Harbor Frieght Spot welder to mount he repair panel and recommend both. Let m know if you have any questions. I learned the hard way.
  5. Thanks! were the overriders functional at all or just cosmetic? Why did people op for them?
  6. Yo Jedheads, My Z came with an extra bumper which has an extra chrome piece mounted parallel with, and on top of, the standard bumper. See examples in the pics below. Before I swap them, I'd like to know more about the fancy one. Were they unique to certain years? After Market? Factory Option? Buehler? Thanks!
  7. @Roberts280z: Here's what I found when I removed mine. You see alot like this, and more a lot worse. Suggestion: Buy an Endoscope. They're about $35 on Amazon. You can feed it through the inside. It will light up the insife and lt you see everything. It might help you decide upon your strategy. I'm few steps ahead of you. I'm almost done with the repairs and have trial fit the panels a few times. Keep me posted and I'll do the same. I've taken lots of pics which might be helpful to you. Let me know what you need to see.
  8. BTW - I Spoke with Tabco about the defective rocker parts. The Technician assured me that the issue was reported and corrected some time ago... As always though, best to inspect before installing.
  9. Robert280Z: Keep us posted with pics! - I'm about to embark on my rockers too and am dreading what I'l find. So far I've done my Slam Panel (using a Tabco replacement panel) and replaced my spare tire well with a donor part. I'll be watching/contributing to this thread I go too. Hoping to get & provide moral support from my fellow Z freaks!
  10. I agree that you'll benefit immensely by having a mentor. Also, you're probably in for a lot of work so you'll need to really love it. I use an Eastwood 135 MIG, which is great for doing body work on my Z. Youtube and the Eastwood site are great references. Good luck!
  11. Update: I've been emailing Brian, Owner of TechnoVersions. Here's what he said: "Folks are happy with either option one or option two. If it helps make a decision, I was told that the stock lower mount is no longer available, but I haven't confirmed that. I'm only aware of one failure out of all that have been sold. It was a crack in the metal bracket that occurred with a high-powered car in a 24-hour endurance race. Since we learned that, the mount was strengthened in that area, so it should never happen again, even in these extreme conditions." When I asked about the drive line angles his response was: As noted on the web page, it's only a 2 degree change. I've never had a negative comment back from customers about using the top mount with stock engines. Not to worry! Brian's been great to work with and I've ordered the bracket and am going with the Energy Suspension top mount. Unless you hear otherwise on this thread, assume that I love it. Jughead
  12. Folks: Asking for Pros/Cons of the two installation options for Ron Tyler Diff front mount. Option 1: With Urethane stop above and and Stock Nissan mount below Option 2: With Energy Suspension top mount. I have to make a decision, so please lemmee know your thoughts! (Diff Type is R180) Thnx!
  13. Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
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