Jump to content
HybridZ

Jughead

Members
  • Content Count

    10
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Jughead

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 08/16/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    My Z!
  1. Jughead

    rusted hatch slam panel

    I fell (felt) your pain. Here are pics of my rear hatch repair journey - presented for reference and posterity. There was VERY little rust evident when I started. Then I picked a paint flake. I used 3M body panel adhesive and a Harbor Frieght Spot welder to mount he repair panel and recommend both. Let m know if you have any questions. I learned the hard way.
  2. Jughead

    Fancy Rear Bumper

    Thanks! were the overriders functional at all or just cosmetic? Why did people op for them?
  3. Jughead

    Fancy Rear Bumper

    Yo Jedheads, My Z came with an extra bumper which has an extra chrome piece mounted parallel with, and on top of, the standard bumper. See examples in the pics below. Before I swap them, I'd like to know more about the fancy one. Were they unique to certain years? After Market? Factory Option? Buehler? Thanks!
  4. @Roberts280z: Here's what I found when I removed mine. You see alot like this, and more a lot worse. Suggestion: Buy an Endoscope. They're about $35 on Amazon. You can feed it through the inside. It will light up the insife and lt you see everything. It might help you decide upon your strategy. I'm few steps ahead of you. I'm almost done with the repairs and have trial fit the panels a few times. Keep me posted and I'll do the same. I've taken lots of pics which might be helpful to you. Let me know what you need to see.
  5. BTW - I Spoke with Tabco about the defective rocker parts. The Technician assured me that the issue was reported and corrected some time ago... As always though, best to inspect before installing.
  6. Robert280Z: Keep us posted with pics! - I'm about to embark on my rockers too and am dreading what I'l find. So far I've done my Slam Panel (using a Tabco replacement panel) and replaced my spare tire well with a donor part. I'll be watching/contributing to this thread I go too. Hoping to get & provide moral support from my fellow Z freaks!
  7. Jughead

    SPOT WELDING

    I agree that you'll benefit immensely by having a mentor. Also, you're probably in for a lot of work so you'll need to really love it. I use an Eastwood 135 MIG, which is great for doing body work on my Z. Youtube and the Eastwood site are great references. Good luck!
  8. Jughead

    Ron Tyler diff mount installed

    Update: I've been emailing Brian, Owner of TechnoVersions. Here's what he said: "Folks are happy with either option one or option two. If it helps make a decision, I was told that the stock lower mount is no longer available, but I haven't confirmed that. I'm only aware of one failure out of all that have been sold. It was a crack in the metal bracket that occurred with a high-powered car in a 24-hour endurance race. Since we learned that, the mount was strengthened in that area, so it should never happen again, even in these extreme conditions." When I asked about the drive line angles his response was: As noted on the web page, it's only a 2 degree change. I've never had a negative comment back from customers about using the top mount with stock engines. Not to worry! Brian's been great to work with and I've ordered the bracket and am going with the Energy Suspension top mount. Unless you hear otherwise on this thread, assume that I love it. Jughead
  9. Jughead

    Ron Tyler diff mount installed

    Folks: Asking for Pros/Cons of the two installation options for Ron Tyler Diff front mount. Option 1: With Urethane stop above and and Stock Nissan mount below Option 2: With Energy Suspension top mount. I have to make a decision, so please lemmee know your thoughts! (Diff Type is R180) Thnx!
  10. Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
×