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About LiamR

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  1. So new alternator in and wired in separately to the atlanticZ wiring conversion and all is good! Back to 14.5v and no more exploding batteries! YAY!
  2. Yes, all checks done. The alternator went for testing, regulator broken!
  3. So I drove it home, so very very pleased. It sounded awesome, popped and banged on the over-run, turned heads everywhere and all in all was a gorgeous drive. I gave it some boost going down the road but it seemed a little slow, a little hesitant... I could only assume that as my s2000 was 550hp, this obviously wasn't going to feel as quick. So carried on driving it regardless. I noticed that half of the dash gauges didn't work (he told me this when showing me round it) but now I got to have a closer look. The voltage gauge was reading off the scale with the charge lamp on cons
  4. Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already
  5. Ok so... after getting it fixed and not driving it since, took it out for a drive and sure enough the OEM alternator regulator was goosed. 14.5v at idle, but rises to 18v when going through the rev range. Replacing it with a new one from a Nissan Serena which is a 90amp alternator. Connectors are in a different place, but the mounting holes seem to be identical. Hopefully getting it mounted up this weekend so will report back when changed. Would ideally love to keep the charge lamp of the OEM loom. Seems the car seriously needs the wiring stripping out and starting again.
  6. Thanks for the heads up buddy! I will leave the car sitting for a few days and see what happens to the battery. I have a jumper pack ready just incase. I also noticed that my car has the "brake" lamp on constantly. I have checked the fluid and the handbrake switch and all seem to be good. Strange one!
  7. OK today's update... So turns out the PO who did the conversion, didn't remove the external voltage regulator!!! I followed AtlanticZ external to internal regulator conversion and sure enough, the OEM regulator was still there. Disconnected the 6 pin plug, started the car and voltage at idle is now 14.5V! I will however be wiring the new alternator into the OEM loom to utilize that charge lamp on the voltmeter. Hopefully this helps anyone else taking on a project! Thanks for your help NewZed. Props!
  8. Thanks for the diagram! Makes things a little clearer... so after some thinking, I'm not even sure that the "lamp" that's currently hanging under the steering column has a resistor on it! That may be the source of the problem right there!
  9. I don't understand how the charge light is on as the alternator is not connected to the existing loom in any way shape or form... Its a stock sr20 alternator so the wiring should match the guides, but I totally agree, start from scratch with the wiring and voltmeter.
  10. I have the exact same setup as this guy... seems very strange mine isn't working properly at all! https://ratsun.net/topic/54092-alternator-wiring-on-sr20-install/
  11. Ok so... the alternator isn't wired into the 280z loom at all so there could be an issue there somewhere. The conversion and wiring was done by the previous owner so I'm trying to work out whats going on. The bulb under the steering column is an aftermarket one (Dont think the S30 had this) and the red LED I refer to is the stock voltage gauge in the dash pod which I dont how its working and showing as charging? Something very strange going on here....
  12. ****ADMINS PLEASE MOVE TO NISSAN FORUM**** Hi all, hoping to nail the electrical issue I'm having... 280z SR20DET swapped.. alternator is outputting 17.5v at idle to the battery and has caused the battery to swell and leak all over my bay!! I have the wiring as follows... Large charging cable direct to battery, yellow wire direct to battery with 10amp fuse, Red/White wire to a bulb under the steering column. Bulb illuminates with ignition on, engine starts, bulb goes out (so I'm guessing all that side is good) Dash gauge shows red charging
  13. Awesome thanks for that I'll take a look! The carpet seemed to be hiding all the loom for the stereo and center console switches.. The splices are those clam shell type splices that you slide over a wire and clamp down. Not very good really. So don't think they were put in there from Nissan. The fuse box doesn't have a cover but found an image from Google so using that for working out the wiring. Also downloaded the service manual. The car seriously needs stripping back inside and the loom starting again. It starts and drives but everything is so intermittent.
  14. Ok so... I've very recently acquired my 280z here in the UK. It's a US import with an sr20det swap and is in need of tidying up and finishing off. Today I started trying to take a look at the wiring harnesses. I pulled back the carpet and noticed a huge mess. The original loom behind the dash has been cut more times than Columbian cocaine. There are so many splices and tangled wires. I have used the search facility but to no avail I can't find the answer I'm looking for.... I want to know if there is a modern pre-made wiring loom out there or is it a home made effort? I want to st
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