lubu

We dont either, They are from Google Image Search.

I think its more of what is left thats not rusted? What you can see is just the surface rust, rusts are like cancer you wont know its there until that first symtom and its already too late. When I bought my car I checked thorroughly for rust and still when I stripped her down I found more rust. I wouldnt worry too much with cosmetic rust since its going to be a stripped down race car, just check for structural rust as suggested by other members.

Thanks Steve, do you by any chance know the part number for the bolts?

Thanks guys, I'll confirm after when they are here. As for the bolts, should I order them from Nissan or any high tensile bolts will do?

Does anyone know what Z those cvs came from? They look a bit long for the 280zxt's, Im thinking of the z31 NA cvs but Im not sure, could be z32? The reason I ask is I want to source the bolts for the cv to the flange. Thanks

John is right, as long as you're in that range you should be fine. Those numbers came from the FSM btw.

Backlash is .0051 to .0071

Maynot be the case since the right wheel moves when it's dragged forward. I would check the diff, if necessary unbolt the uni-joints and see if the wheels move.

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What colour is this?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23131&d=1210737475

If I remember correctly the some of the early Zs do have mechanical cruise control (hand throttle) by lever located in the center console. The cable links to the accelerator pedal, thing is it doesnt release the pedal even if you step on the brake so it is very prone to accident. I advise you not to hook it back up.

From the look of it I think the front engine moved slightly to the left (driver side) which I think, makes sense since the impact generated at an angle on right side.

Good work, where about are you?

Here is a diagram from FSM :classic:

Taking a break from installing the air-con unit I decided to put in a different armrest and cut the center console back to where the shifter is. The armrest it self has four cupholders, 2 front 2 back, coins compartment and it can slides I got an armrest from a 6gen celica, st202 BEAMS to be specific. With a grinder and electric drill and 2mm plate I got myself a bracket. Dont worry if the bracket isn't measurements perfect, you wont see it anyway. Good thing is that you can slide the top and lock it in any position you wish. I slide it all the way back to cover the plate and there it stays. Flash on and my cam start acting weird. Need to cover the exposing metal but that will be another day.

Update, Screw in your solenoids and vacuum tank to the strut tower. Connect all your vacuum hoses to their correct places (see diagrams). Vacuum source can be connected to the intake manifold (thats where I connect mine). Hook the connectors together. Cover the A/C lines by the firewall with something like this. Drill 2 holes and you're done. From the selector connect the vacuum hoses to their correct places. Since my car didn't come with any air ducting I didnt know (still dont) how they are all connected. So I made up a 3way air-duct. Basically air from the unit outlets are diverted to 3-way ducts which distribute air to the side vents and defrosters. The 3way duct itself has two large and a smaller openings, one large opening is to accept air from the unit outlet the other large leads to the side vent and the smaller opening is to the defroster, this means that most of the air will flow to the side vents and little will go to the defrosters, but if I pull the knob to shut the air then the defrosters will get all the air flow. My descriptions is crap, picture says a thousand words (better words). Connect the inlet/outlet hoses for the heater matrix, you should have a fully functional (minus the air-conditioning) climate unit at this stage. Start the engine, warm it up and test all the settings include heat, look/hear for any vacuum/water leak. Make sure all the connections are secure and tight, change broken/leak hoses if necessary.

Since I couldnt really find any complete threads on how to install factory air-con into 260&280z I thought I would make a progress thread so people who, like me can find the infos that they need in completing the conversion. This conversion will take months, since Im not always at home so bear with me. You will need: Phillips screw driver Plier Set of hex Beers First thing is to take off your dash, I thought I can do it without taking it off, which I kinda did but I couldnt install the air-con assembly this way coz it is way bigger than normal heater assembly. So save yourself the hassle and take off the dash first. Negative cable off. Empty the coolant (you dont have to but might as well) Unhook the inlet and outlet hoses Remove the blower according to these instructions Follow these instructions and remove the heater. The normal heater doesnt have the two screws circled in red. You are half way there. Spoil yourself with some beers... Now just install the aircon assembly and blower in the reverse order of removal. Enjoy the blower on 4th speed Ill attack the condenser, vaccum lines, valves....tomorrow. BTW where is a good vaccum port I can hook up to?

NVM I figured it out.

Update : Defogger wouldnt work without connecting the right plug in, but that would result in a blown fuse with illumination.

My Z doesnt have hazard switch and the indicators still works, Im guessing the indicator circuit must be hardwired. Im trying to figure out which wires are for the hazard and which ones are for the indicators. But what really bugs me is when ever I plug in one of the black connector and turn on the illumination the fuse would blown in about 3 seconds. Here are the location of the two connectors, located underneath the driver's side close to the center console. Here are the two connectors, the left one is a male when left connected will give me indication and possibly defrogger (I have not tested it yet) but when ever I plug the right one (female) in and turn on illumination the fuse would get shot. Now the red arrows mean the two wires are connected the blue arrow means it goes to the defrogger switch, yellow is (Im assuming) goes to the hazard switch (of which two wires were cut out) the gray arrows represent two wires joining each from a connector...and so many left unconnected...what are they for? All wires are black with the exception of a black and white stripe in each connector. Please chime in if you have any ideas. Thanks.

Im stripping the interior and applying 3 steps POR-15. I got her for 4k, the Zs arent cheap here in Australia. But given the condition that shes in Im pretty happy with the purchase. Oz=Australia

If the car is going to be used mainly on track and not restoration then I dont see why comparisons cant be made. But FWIW you are dead right on the historical values.

I figured out the lever is for choke.The hole in the firewall was for the original choke cables but the previous owner decided to use a different route, dont know why he didnt connect it to the lever. Two wires is for the motor washer...again I dont know why its not connected...and apparently there should switch at the end of the engine light but it broke off. Im still stump about the bonnet switch, what does it do?

Thanks guys and here are the pics... Some FeOs....nothing major but they're there. The original carpets are still on..I think. Is that a footrest? I have a few questions, please help me if you have the time. What is this lever and two wires for and the hole from the firewall i guessing thats for a/c system? The engine bay's light hooked up the bonnet switch by any chance, cos its not lighting up and the switch is pretty rusted. Im not sure how he fried the electrical system in the car by installing a new alternator but the clock, volt meter and blower dont work and the entire interrior lighting dont work. I managed to fix the blower but the clock got stung pretty bad. Does anyone know the values of these two resistors? I can probably take them out and solder two new ones in. As for the Vol meter, I guessing its long gone..took it out and connected to the battery but it didnt register any voltage.