galloguy05

I agree with BRAAP. In fact, I believe he was the one that helped me solve my tps issue when I first got my Z. Mine did the same exact thing and it turned out there was a little water in the bottom of the sensor housing. I stuck some paper towel in there to get any visable water, and then just let it air dry for a few days and then plugged it back in and i have not had a single issue with it since then. I also had a little bit of rust on one of the pins that wasnt allowing it to connect right (because of the water it rusted) so i took a bit of sand paper to it as well just to be sure. Hope it all works out for you.

Sorry, I just noticed where you said not primered. The car is primered but sprayed with hvlp guns (all but the roof because I haven't had time). Not rattle canned. The interior is good except a cracked dash (half dash cap installed). Again, let me know if you are interested.

I have a 75 that I am willing to sell. -5 speed swap from 77 280z - BRAND NEW sportmax 522's 15x8 with less than 500 miles on the tires. -new(ish)/nice center console with cd player (speakers included for extra $100) -tokico blue struts (front installed rear not installed but come with the car) -dynamat in the interrior cabin area but not hatch area. -speedhut reverse el-glo guage faces. -comes with stock 4-speed that it came with in 75 as well. Perfectly good transmission. This car runs well and I hate to say that I want to sell it. But I am going into the military and do not want the car to sit for the next 4 years. This car isn't posted on craigslist either. I will let it go to an HBZ member for 2,000 firm. I have nearly that much in parts and wheels an tires in it. Pm me if you are still in the market and I can send you some pics. Or jst search any threads I've posted pics of it in. Thanks.

So just today I found nearly the same hole in my frame on the drivers side. Can anyone chime in here as to how well just cutting out the bad part of the frame and adding in new metal and then treating it for rust prevention? Maybe just for a couple years even? Would this be a viable solution or is an entire frame rail replacement the only solution? I plan on keeping the car under 300 hp at MOST with future plans realistically being around 220 hp or so and the car is currently stock (75 280z) besides shocks and springs and 5 speed. My floors and the rest of the frame are nice and not rusted, so I do not want (at this time) to replace the entire frame rails. Thanks, Matt

Love the wheels. Same as mine! I am also doing a rustoleum paint job but just in the grey primer stages right now. Nice car though!

So I went to start my car last night when working on it and i noticed that a wire was hanging down out of the front of the ignition switch. I then noticed a little smoke coming from that switch when I turned the key or something. (not sure when it exactly happened, I just saw the smoke and took my key out before i made it worse) Now I am talking about the two wires that go into the front of the ignition by the key bezel. NOT ANY OF THE HARNESS WIRES. On my car both of the wires are black, so they have apparently been replaced or fixed because on zcarsource.com they arent black. here is a link of the whole ignition lock and switch and the wires I am talking about are the only ones shown. Zcarsource Ignition switch and lock What are these wires called and what do they do? My ignition still works and starts the car. is it for the accessory option of the ignition? Thanks, Matt

Alright guys here is an update. Actually first I need to add a little more background info. Before I discovered this BCDD issue, my car had an issue with soundig like it was missing ad wanted to die at idle. The timing and everything was correct and it was getting enough fuel and everything. So all I did was unscrew the idle needle and when it idled at about 1,000 rpm it seemed fine, but toned back down to 800 the car seemed to want to die ad the engine would shake as if it was missing on a cylinder. So I just turned the idle screw back and left it at 1,000 and then I noticed this issue. I would like to repeat that I am positive that the timing is not off and it is in fact getting enough fuel. Now to this current issue, I took off the afm to get to the BCDD. I removed the BCDD needle (or whatever it is called that is screwed into the side of te BCDD at the bottom of the throttle body. With it removed I just put the afm back on and started the car to see what would happen. Now when cold the car is not going to act up so I wa by able to see if it changed anythig. I did however notice that it was ifleing higher than what I had it previously set it at. So iturned the idle back down to it idleig at 800 and, without the BCDD Needle in, it idled perfectly at 800. So I was sort of perplexed and put the BCDD back on to see what would happen and it remains to idle perfectly now at about 800 rpm. Now keep in mind ALL I did was remove the BCDD needle. I did not clean it or adjust anything. All I did was remove it and start the car, shut it off, put it back on and restart it. Can anyone tell me why this may have happened or hy it possibly might have fixed the issue? I haven't been able to take the car for a spin yet so I cannot comment on how it performs when warm. Maybe the needle in the BCDD Was simply stuck or something? If anyone can give me any insight on this I'd appreciate it. I know one solution is to plug the BCDD port, but I don't want to keep having a backfire and possibly ruin my cat (or worse stories I read about splitting the exhaust in half at the seam). So how do I adjust this needle on the BCDD? Simply by adding another washer or something? Thanks everyone, Matt

Paul, Thanks for those links. The second link is exactly what my car is doing. I am going to research on repairng the b.c.d.d. Valve or replacing it. From what that post said, it wasn't getting the 12v needeD when the car was warmed up. So I am going to try and trace that issue down.

Looks like a good start to me, but I am not fond of the body work. I am a fan of the stock Z body lines and rear light panel. Looks to have a bunch of work done on it though and I admire that, not my cup of tea though. Great find for a good price if the body work isnt hiding any cancer or anything and the floors and everything are solid. Is the rear bumper painted or something or is it just the lighting of the picture?

Heres mine. I know the car is ugly right now but like everyone its a work in progress and going for paint next week! 15x8 xxr 522's running (i believe but for some reason I am drawing a blank on tire size right now) 225/45/15 tires. Thats the only decent picture I have thought unfortunately. I plan on lowering the car another 1".

So I have recently been trying to get a little seat time in my z before I park it for paint, but a weird issue has me confused and I have no clue how to search this in the search criteria without being too vague. The car is a stock 75 280z with only a muffler on it for the sound affect but still running a cat and all stock emission control devices. I also have a cold air intake on it. My issue is, when driving the car, after taking it out of gear and coasting (without the clutch pressed on just coasting) the engine rpm will stay at whatever rpms i was at in gear until the car is at a COMPLETE stop. Then they will drop back down to idle correctly. What may be causing this? Maybe a vacuum leak? I am going to try and check all my hoses today, with the little time I have available being that its fathers day and have family obligations,to look for any obvious hose leaks. What else might cause this though? P.s. Sorry if this has been covered before. I simply don't know what this issue would be called to search for it in the search function. Thanks, Matt

Hey all, I am in the market for a spoiler for my 280Z. I am not too picky as far as fiberglass or urethane or a 3 piece or one piece. Not really in the market for a carbon fiber one though. Let me know what you guys might have available. If worse comes to worse I will eventually buy one new, but if I can get one that needs a little work for less than what new would cost then I figure it is worth a shot. Thanks

You make a very good point. I will look in my black dragon catalog when I get home.

I had the same wheels. I replaced them with xxr 522's now, but I though about Doug this to them but didn't know how it would turn out. I think it looks good. I wonder how it would look if the paint was reversed though. Having the majority of the wheel black with the other part the silver. Good job though I like it.

I had a problem similar on my 75 280z when I re-did the interior. One of the harness plugs that plug into the firewall was loose. It made my right side lights dim and the a/c not work. My tach wasnt hooked up at the time so I cannot comment on whether or not that was affected. I really cant remember if the car started and ran when I had this happen either though. Might be something to check though? I have no idea if the 240z's have the same type of harness there on the passenger side firewall. edit: Just did a quick google search and someone said that the 240z and early 260z get the signal from the + side of the coil and the late 260z and 280z's get it from the negative side of the coil. Im not sure where or how this works if it is the right info but maybe it will steer you in the right direction.