bryand2

2-3 quarts? that sounds like a little too much most of the z fsm's say about 2 3/4 pints, which converted to quarts is only 1.375

i was gonna add some lucas to teh redline tranny and diff oil while im changing, anyone think this is a bad idea, too thick idk?

hey guys got hit couple days ago ad i need a 75 or 76 280z bumper and hood, dont want a vented hood, my insurance is covering all of this so if anyone can help plz do

ok well replaced the removed bulb and still no luck, the side markers and grill signals light up when lights are on, but no signals or flashers

no no, he said he put the correct one in, there was a 78 alternator in it when i bought it, or so he told me, he said he replaced the alternator with the correct one, but there is still a voltage drop

dude i dont know if they will bolt right up or not, and which one were u talking about zx or z31?

hey guys got a 76 280 that has a pretty rusted fuel filler neck, dont need rust in my gas tank, anyone got one?

hey guys wondering if anyone knows if there is an alternative radiator that can be swapped into a 76 280, say from a zx, or a z31 that might work better but will bolt up or at least require little modification?

does anyone know if one turn signal bulb being removed will make the entire system fail? i removed one bulb that was burnt out before i put it in the shop

globes and flasher can? im not really familiar with the electrical system

$6400 dollars worth of suspension work and some ecu re wiring

san jose

hey guys i have a 76 280z and i wanna replace the tranny but why bother replacing the stock one if i can upgrade, i want something really reliable, thinking z31, but i dont know if there is a moutning plate for z31 to L28 block, anyone have any suggestions for an upgraded tranny?

I need a alternator and or voltage regulator for a 76 280z

im looking for a 5 spd transmission that will bolt up to a 76 280z with NO modification

just got my car back from the shop and the turn signals arent working, they were working when i took it in, checked fuses already, any suggestions?

hey guys i live in northern california, just got my 76 280 out of the shop after having $6400 worth of suspension work done, i wont mention the shop, but i was told i had a new alternator installed because when i took it in i had a voltage drop, got it back and i still have a voltage drop and i question wether the atlernator was even changed. he told me the car had the wrong alternator installed that it was out of a 78. where is the voltage regulator located on the 75-77's, and any help on the blinker issue would help, already checked fuses

already did, cant see anything, i think its the diff, the only thing is the clanking is extremely loud, like its external

i hit one of those round steel covers on the ground at the gas station, hit it pretty hard, dont know how the car isnt lowered, and now im getting a loud clanking sound from rear end, sounds like a ratchet handle being dragged on the ground, still shifts and drives fine, doesnt make the noise when accelerating, only when decellerating while still in gear and it gets faster if i decellerate while in gear or down shift, does sound like i knocked something out of place in the differential?

does anyone know of a way i can check this chassis # without the risk of getting the car yanked out from under me before i can go to the guy and make him take it back?, if the car is not stolen then why would the all the vin #s be swapped out for a newer one?

so i called the dmv, gave them the chassis # off the firewall, and they said there was no matching vin with that number, now im really confused? ahh idk what to do, the dmv already recognizes the car as a 78 280z, do i go to the guy i bought it from and say give me my money back or i go to the police, because if i do go to the police i risk losing the car and not getting my money back, and im a college student i dont have another 3,000 to throw down the drain, that was all of my savings right there, is there a possibility that the reason the chassis # doesnt show in the DMV is because the car was from out of state originally? and if thats the case the car has EGR valve and carbon canister and i thought all the DMV's nationwide were linked now?

ok so i looked at the black dragon catalog, and apparently my chassis # corresponds with a 76, not a 78, so im figuring some ♥♥♥♥ was swapped out, im gonna call the california highway patrol to make sure the vin# isnt stolen, this car is accepted by the dmv as a 78, here is where im confused, the door plate with the vin# is still riveted in, now from what i understand the dash an engine bay plates can be easily swapped, but how would the door vin not match the chassis number and still be riveted in considering the door plate is on the frame of the door, not the door itself so its not like the door could have been swapped?

ok so i looked at teh factory shop manual and apparently there are 3 places to look, the obvious dashboard vin #, the engine bay plate, and there is a serial number stamped into the firewall. the numbers on the dash and the engine bay plate match, but the number etched into the firewall does not, which is the serial #, the fsm says the id plate on the dash should contain the serial number, which is on the firewall, but they dont match

ok so i bought what i was told was a 78 280z, the title just says 78 datsun, but it has 75-76 bumpers plus there are certain parts of the enging painted blue that could only have been painted if the engine was either removed or seriously dis-assembled, anyway to figure out if this car really is a 78 and the bumpers were just swapped or if its not really a 78 and i was lied to?