Jump to content
HybridZ

adivin

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    30

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

adivin last won the day on December 31 2020

adivin had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Orleans

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

adivin's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later Rare

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. adivin
    Over the weekend I installed a new OEM (Nabco) 11/16 slave. It didn't make much difference. I made a few more turns on the MC by the pedal and it got it to where I can drive the car. I am almost at the end of adjustment there. Engagement is still really close to the floor. I don't know where to go from here. I suppose a larger MC like Wilwood perhaps would get me more travel at the slave? I might just adjust the slave more beyond the point that I should.
  2. adivin
    I'm running into the problem that others have had of tying to get the clutch to disengage without preloading the TO bearing on the PP. I can adjust the slave, but it I think it is putting constant pressure on the PP. It would seem using a taller collar puts me in the same situation as adjusting the slave. The solution would be more stroke from the slave. I currently have a 5/8 MC and I think a 11/16 slave.
  3. adivin
    Time warp to present... Can't the same thing be accomplished if you have an adjustable slave cylinder as getting a taller collar?
  4. adivin
    Well, the pick up plumbing is the problem. I suspect I have a partial blockage at the end of the pick up tube due to the sealer. I can still blow air through it, but I think it should flow a bit better. Of course there is no access to it. I was able to sneak a peak by snaking an inspection camera in there and I saw a glob of sealer on the end of the pick up tube. Essentially it's the same problem the original poster had. Perhaps all is well and I'm being paranoid.
  5. adivin
    Crap, I think I am in this same situation now. Wondering what the best approach is. I should probably start conservatively with the stripper. If I have to cut the tank, what is the best approach for re-plumbing?
  6. adivin
    I agree, the car isn't running yet so I have no miles on the springs. I will see if they do. I was thinking of solid pillow mounts for the front as an option to lower front.
  7. adivin
    Well that makes two of us. MSA said the springs will settle and to give it time. We shall see.
  8. adivin
    I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
  9. adivin
    This is seems to be common with progressive springs. They are called dead or helper springs. Keeps the springs in place when the rear is unloaded.
  10. adivin
    I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
  11. adivin
    001 in front. 002 in rear
  12. adivin
    Yep, spacer in the rear and bearings in the front.
  13. adivin
    Rather than start a new thread, I'll revive this one. I am having the same issue with the front being higher than the rear after installing the Eibachs. I am using the new Konis made for the 240z from MSA. If my measurement is good, the fronts seems to be about 1/2" higher than rear measured from the rocker. I don't have a hood or radiator on at the moment. Some say it will settle over time. Some say it never did for them. I have 6305.001 in front and 6305.202 in rear. I wonder how the issue finally resolved for PCressey?
  14. adivin
    I had the rear suspension ready to go in today, but forgot about bump stops...damn. Do you know exactly which Koni bump stops to get and a good source to purchase?
  15. adivin
    Are bump stops needed in the rear? I also have the Eibach springs but with the new Koni struts.
×
×
  • Create New...