cbuczesk

Adam, I have a pair of new 240Z quarters. My brother and I put a set on a 1970 240Z and the fit was good. I also have some 280Z quarters if you want to get rid of the indentations for the rear bumper. I'd like $200 each for the 280Z quarters and $250 each for the 240Z quarters. I've attached a picture of the left quarter that we put on the 1970 240Z. We cut the top 2" off the new quarter to splice it below the body line. The new panel goes around to the tail light opening. Chuck

Here's a before and after of my 260Z turbo. I finished it last year. Chuck

I have three to add: 1. Don't shake an old can of aircraft paint stripper even if it looks solid. Turns out that the stripper was eating the can from the inside out and when I shook it the stripper flew out of weakend metal and all over my arm and neck. I was not wearing glasses. A drop of that stuff burns... 2. I used a 3M 3" Roloc disc on an angle grinder doing about 20000rpm. The Roloc shaft snapped off sending the disc flying into my left inner elbow. Got a nasty cut. Had my glasses on. At least it didn't hit my neck! 3. My parents had a 1980 200SX (fuel injected) that had been setting for years. I assumed that there was no fuel pressure after all that time. I cut the rubber fuel line and gas shot into both of my eyes. No glasses. Yes, that burned! And smelled for a long time. BONUS mistake! I have had three small pieces of metal removed from my eyes. I was grinding metal. I was wearing glasses the last time or two. The eye doctor removed the metal and then used a small air dremel to grind out a little crator where the metal was to prevent infection. Fun! Chuck

Careless - I have a set of new 240Z quarters that I've been hanging on to for a while. They're reproductions but go from the door jam to the tail lights and from the rockers to above the upper body line. I've attached a picture of one that I put on a 1970 240Z. I removed about 2" from the upper part of the patch panel and welded it below the upper body line. You can have them for $250 each. I also have two sets of the 280Z style quarters for $200 each. mopar69 - What mopars do you have? Chuck

Jim, You need to flange the metal first so it's flush after welding. That way it won't bow outward. After grinding I coat the welded area with POR-15 on both sides. Seam sealer on the back and bondo on the outside. Here are a couple of flangers: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1587&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=504&iSubCat=510&iProductID=1587 http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1658&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=504&iSubCat=510&iProductID=1658 Chuck

Shane, You can have one of mine for $5. I'm in Chambersburg but I can deliver it to Carlisle on Thursday. Chuck

I doubt if I'll take it to 18psi. This project is about done. I have a bunch of other cars to restore and I'd like to have some fun with the Z over the summer. Actually, I thought it was done with this car till it started smoking heavily out the valve cover and crankcase breather. For a few days there were no bugs between Chambersburg and Beaver Springs Dragway! Oh, well. This was a rebuilt engine but I think the PO hammered on it before he sold it to me and then I accidently set the boost to 15+psi the night before the drags. That did it. Does anyone have any links for custom pistons? Approx what do they cost? Chuck

Are the stock turbo pistons forged or cast? I have very low compression (50-112psi) in cylinders 1, 5 and 6 and decided to do a rebuild. After removing the head I discovered that someone installed flat top pistons. I'm trying to decide if I should go with: a) current flat top pistons and a thicker head gasket +1mm turbo pistons c) +1mm flat tops with the thicker gasket d) something else Engine specs: F54 block, P90A head, stock crank and rods, ported intake and exhaust, 60mm TB, T3/T4 turbo, intercooler, 370cc injectors, 300ZX ECU, MSD 6AL, etc. Chuck

Get some new floors and frames from Zeddfindings. Replacing is actually quicker and easier than repairing. It takes about 40 hours total from start to finish to replace both sides. Chuck

I have a few... 1971 Porsche 911t - 3.0L w/ Webers 1971 240Z - parts car 1972 BMW 2002 tii - 62k original miles 1974 BMW 2002 turbo - original factory turbo car #91 1974 260Z turbo, suspension, brake and body upgrades, almost done! 1975 280Z - my first Z, built 2.8L, 5-speed 1976 280Z - roller, good shell, for sale $300 1996 Ranger X-Cab - mountain bike hauler 1997 Maxima SE - daily driver Gone but not forgotten... 1970 ITS 240Z 1971 BMW 2002 - my first bimmer 1972 BMW 2002 - orange pumpkin car 1972 BMW 2002tii - Sahara tan, restored 1972 BMW 2002tii - project car 1974 Fairlady Z - ground up restoration 1974 620 PU - blue Smurfmobile 1988 BMW M3 - awesome car 1991 Sentra SE-R and some others: 1970 240Z, 1975 280Z, 1977 280Z, 1982 280ZX, 1984 720, 1985 720 and maybe more but that's all I can remember. Chuck

I think you'll be fine with a FelPro or Nissan. I though I had a FelPro fail once but it turned out to be a snapped head bolt. Check your cam. Those lobes are soft and will sear quickly. If your lobes and rocker pads look good then you might be ok. I agree with rags. Run some regular oil till you're sure it's fixed. Remove your spark plugs and check the ends. It'll be obvious which cylindar has the leak. Get to work on that car! We want to see how much HP you gain with your IC that's waiting to be installed. Chuck

I think a lot of us would like to see you keep the Z just so we can continue to follow your story. It would be interesting to see just what went wrong with your engine. Maybe it'll be cheap and simple! Maybe not. I think it's worth a shot to find out what caused the leak and to see if there's any other damage. You've put a lot of time and money in the car so why not invest a little more? You have many of the bugs worked out. I say go for it! Chuck

When you replaced your head gasket, did you use new head bolts? Remove your valve cover and check your cam lobes. They'll wear first. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll be fine. When you changed your head gasket did you remove and torque it in the proper sequence? Was the head resurfaced? There are many things that could have gone wrong. The turbo is one of the last things that I'd blame in this case. Remove the head and let us know what you find. If you were 3000 miles closer I'd give you a hand. Chuck

It would be cheaper and easier to get a used 280Z fuel tank. It bolts right in. I'm using a '76 fuel tank and vent tank on my '74 Z. Very easy to do! Chuck

You've been a lot of help, Bernardd! Is there a site that discusses tuning the Z31 ecu? I'm going to get the car running with the L-Jet because it ran well before the swap. While I get things sorted out I want to do more research on programming a Z31 ecu. I'll have to get a wideband, logging software, etc. sometime. I appreciate the help! Now if I could just find a Z31 fi system... Chuck

There's a lot of good info at that site. Maybe too much! I'm not clear on one thing. Can I "tune" the Z31 ecu completely or is that only for the Z32? Has anyone here tuned a Z31 ecu for a 280ZX turbo engine? Chuck

Get the Zedd Findings floor and frame kit. The 240Z kits have the same bends and drain holes as the early cars. It takes about 40 hours total to install them. I'll try to upload some pics after work. They're made of 18ga steel and there's about 4"x16" of extra metal that you can use to repair any extra rust. The frame rail is a few inches too long, too. But that's a good thing. You can use that to patch the frame on the other side or just install it as a longer rail for more strength. ZF also makes a kit for the 280Z. Chuck

Sounds like you modified the ecu yourself. What did you use to do that? How hard is it to do that? Chuck

I don't mind doing the research. I've already done a bunch to make sure that the stock 280Z (non-turbo) fi system would work. I'll have to make a list of parts that I'll need. I plan to use a Z31 harness. I have an MSD 6AL so I'm not sure if I'll have to modify the distributor for the Z31 system. Will I? Do you know if the Z31 sensors are direct bolt-ons, should I use the 280Z/ZXT sensors, or ??? I found a guy on zcar.com with a bunch of Z31 fi stuff for sale but he hasn't replied to my email. Do you have any pics of your setup? Chuck

I'm dropping a 280ZX turbo engine in a 1974 260Z and would like to use the early 300ZX fi system. The engine currently runs well with a 1976 280Z fi system. Have many people done this? Is it documented anywhere? I didn't have any luck searching the archives or web. I noticed that SleeperZ did it. How do you like it? I'd appreciate any help. Anyone have one for sale? Thanks, Chuck

Those quarter windows are tricky! Try some soapy water on the gaskets and body. It'll help to have one person hold the window in place while another works on the screws. Good luck! I'll be doing that soon, too. Chuck

I'll call Forced Performance to see what they suggest. I checked the TurboCity web page and emailed them a week ago. Still waiting for their reply. I really want it to be water cooled. I'm not too worried about redoing my exhaust. I don't like how the PO did it and I do have a new 2.5" MS exhaust lying around that could be modified to work. I'll need a new compressor wheel since a blade is bent on mine. What would I have to change on my exhaust if I went with a Garrett? Just curious. Chuck

Yo, thanks for the info! Does anybody have a good used t3/t4 for sale? Any suggestions on where to buy a new or rebuilt unit? Chuck 74 260Zturbo - finally finished adapting the early 260Z heater controls to work with the larger 76 280Z a/c evaporator

I'm in the process of transplanting an 82 ZX turbo engine from a 280Z into a 260Z and I noticed that the stock turbo has a good bit of play in the shaft. I might as well upgrade to a t3/t4. Will the turbo below work well on a stock engine with an MSD 6AL and intercooler? I'm looking for a streetable turbo with low to mid rpm power. I plan to do more upgrades and try to get more power of this engine over time. What specs should I look for in a t3/t4? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33742&item=2451839608 Thanks, Chuck

I was thinking $50 including shipping. Should be close to that anyway. I think was a thread recently about filling in the vents. What do you do for fresh air to the heater? Chuck