Cruzzar

I ordered two sets of rotors. One pair for the stock '75 Z font end and one pair for the rear Nissan Maxima upgrade. When I opened the boxes I grabbed my rear drive axles that I had apart to replace the carrier bearings and made sure the rotors fit the stud pattern. The rotors for the back fit just fine when I lined up the studs. The stock rotors for the front did not fit over the studs as I had thought they should. What I did not know is that the rotors bolt on the front hubs and do not fit over the studs as most conventional rotors do. As I posted earlier I am slowly rebuild the brake system on the Z that has been parked since '94 and when I ordered rotors for the back I also order new rotors for the front. I have not disassembled the front suspension yet so I was not aware of how the rotors mounted. When I opened the boxes I incorrectly assumed (sic) the wrong method of installation . Had I broken down the front end I would have remember and noted that the rotor hats bolt on the back side of the spindle and not slid over the studs. My original post dealt only with the front rotors since that is the only disk brake option on a stock '75 Z. I did not mention the rear conversion to avoid responders getting confused with what I was asking for. The confusion I was having is that the mounting bolt pattern for the front rotors is 4 on 103mm (4.055) which is correct when you bolt them on and not try to slip them on over the studs that are on a 4 on 114.5 mm bolt pattern.

'82/'83 280zx non turbo, I already have them and they do fit the drive axles.

I am installing the MSA/Nissan Maxima kit hence the use of rotors for the rear.

I have the rear hubs apart so the stub axle is available and it definitely does not fit into the 4 holes in the rotor. The centerline distance between the opposite holes where the lug studs goes is too short ! My measurement indicates about 4 1/16". Lowrider, thanks for the clarification, I have not taken the front end apart as I have just gotten this Z from a friend who has had it stored since '94 and am replacing all the brake workings. I just jumped the gun in assuming that they fit in the conventional method. Do I have enough egg on my face?

Just venting here----and trying to help out anyone else trying to order some stock, disk brake rotors for a '75 Z (or any other '70-78 plus Z). I tried ordered online stock replacement rotors for my '75 z from Rock Auto and what they sent was a rotor with a bolt circle diameter of 4.055 9 4 1/16"). The box was marked with the part number from Centric that matched their online listing number for a '75 Datsun 280z. So to return them I had to answer several questions one of which was does the part number on the box match the description that is posted online, so I went back and studied the description and under info it reads that the bolt hole center line was 4.055", which I didn't catch because to my knowledge there is only one bolt hole centerline for the early Z's (4.5"). There is no way to contact Rock Auto and notify them that they have a mistake in their online catalogue (I checked and all the other lines of rotors for the '75 and they all listed 4.055 as a centerline, so I sent them back and ordered from Parts Geek. I ordered Raybestos rotors (part num. 412570) for a '75 Datsun 280z and just got them in today and guess what, bolt centerline diameter is 4.055", so these will have to go back. If you read their small print it states that they will not cover return shipping even if the part does not fit. This is getting expensive. So I drove down to O'Reiliy Auto parts and tried to order a pair of rotors for a '75 Datsun 280Z and before ordering, I asked what the bolt center line distance was and ----------yep, he said 4.005". So I whipped out my phone and did a search for what the bolt center line distance is for a '75 Datsun Z and showed him three different sites verifying 4.5" as correct. I asked him how they could go about getting me the correct rotors and they shrugged their shoulders. So I drove over to an old established Auto supply store/distribution warehouse and, you guessed it, they listed the rotors cl as 4.055 but the counter guy looked up a number of suppliers and found an old listing for a Raybestos rotor for a '75 Z with 4.5" a bolt centerline distance and a part number of 9064R----- but they were no longer a supplier for them and therefor could no longer get them for me. So I came back home and looked up what NAPA had to offer and NOOOOOOOO, they listed the 4.055 cl, just as all the others. Has somebody supplied all of these outlets with inaccurate information regarding these rotors bolt hole centerline distance? Is there some Datsun of this vintage that these incorrect rotors have been mistaken to fit the Z? Has anyone else had problems with ordering stock rotors from one of these sources? I am currently discussing this issue with my counsel (Mr. Beam, that's Jim Beam) and thought I would post this situation. PS. I will be in LA next week and will stop by MSA and pick up a pair.

I've recently purchased a very clean 75 280 z. I want to touch up the underside of the car but I am not sure what color to use. It appears that the bottom sheet metal was painted the same as the exterior but it looks like some of the areas are black. The car's color is bronze metallic which is seen on various areas underneath (above the gas tank for example). Were the cars painted the same color top and bottom as they went down the paint line? I suspect the suspension and drive parts that are bolted onto the car after paint were a satin black. How about the wheel wells, exterior color or black, or were they painted the exterior color and then shot with body deadener and therefore they appear to be black? Any insight out there on this issue.

Grannyknot, sorry for the delayed response. I have been out of town and did not see your request for a supplier of EPS parts. The one that comes to mind is ePowerSteering.com – Adapting Electric Power Steering in Your Vehicle. These guys have couplers, brackets and other various parts for making installations easier. I can't recall the other company that had various parts at the moment. If it comes to me I will post it.

I have the Saturn VUE eps and the Bruno controller in my other ride. I have really no complaints with the entire system. Easy wiring diagram from Bruno. I put my eps into a GM tilt column. There are several companies that now carry the correct splined couplers that help in the adaptation. I have done all the work myself and have less than $90 in the whole electrical system with a $75 swap meet column. The return to center in not particularly a problem and I get used to it after a few miles of driving. This is with the power assist turned turned down low. It is nice to be able to dial in the amount of assist that you want but like a lot of other accessories one you set it you will probably not readjust it for a long time. I would want to drive a vehicle with an eps in the fail safe condition to see just how much assist that it provides before I went in that direction.

Here is some additional reading regarding various EPS units that may provide you with some additional information. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/electric-steering-with-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-needed-pics-videos.1008722/

I don't know what EPS unit that you will be using but it appears that in many adapted EPS applications the owners complain that the after installation handling or specifically the 'return to center" is not as good as was previous to the change. In various domestic applications some have even gone to 4 and 5 degrees of caster with some luck. I have a Saturn VUE EPS in my other car (53 Studebaker with aftermarket front suspension and R&P steering) and I dialed in 3 1/2 degrees of caster and I still have to manually return the wheel after going around a corner. You might want to ask if anyone has put an EPS unit on their Z and see what their opinion is. There are getting more and more specialized EPS units on the marker and maybe they have found a way to correct the return to center issue.

So I am better informed what year did the Z go to the bubble flare.

You indicated that the new stainless lines come with a double flare, are you trying to install these onto the original fittings? The original fittings are set up to receive a 'metric' iso bubble flare or am I wrong or missing something?

I don't know if this is solid mount to the trans or does is use the rubber/steel isolator and if so which isolator-- the 240sx or the 280z's.

I have not been able to find the specifications for the distance between the two bolts on the bottom of my 240sx transmission's rear mount. I will be putting this in my 75 280z after doing the machining operations for the front bell. I know that I will have to move the rear trans mount back but what I don't know is will the 75z's rubber/steel isolator bolt up the the Fs5w71c's two bottom trans mount bolts? I don't have access to the car for a few weeks so I can't measure the bolt centerlines on the 4 speed that is in it now.

Madkaw. Does Megasquirt have the capabilities to run a knox sensor to back off the timing or does it need to with the aluminum head at 10.5 compression?