NorthStar

Hey guys, I recently had my harmonic damper fail and replaced it with an ATI Damper. The ATI has a much smaller single v belt pulley, meaning that my manual fan and alternator are now both spinning half as fast. What's more is that I nearly pegged my temp gauge while stuck in traffic for about 30 minutes and it was 60 degrees outside! I'm looking at getting a fan shroud and dual fan set up to maximize cooling. I also started a thread over here about some turbo ideas I've got running linked here Anyway, overheating is only going to be more of a concern if/when I undertake this turbo install, especially with risks of detonation. Has anyone here used the ZCarDepot twin 12" fan shroud in combination with Mishimoto's 12" race line high flow fans? Links below. https://zcardepot.com/products/fan-shroud-for-electric-fans-radiator-240z-260z-70-74?_pos=5&_sid=b2a7e84a7&_ss=r https://www.mishimoto.com/race-line-high-flow-fan-12.html#features I'm going to need a much stronger alternator to power these fans in addition to my normal systems. My current alternator puts out about 60amps. Anyone have any recommendations on alternators that push out 100 or more?

So, a couple things. I'll openly admit, I understand a lot of this in concept, but actually doing it seems really daunting as this is my first project car (did I forget to mention that? lol) As for the fuel system design, I have some dumb questions. What's a surge tank? I assume it's a tank to keep an amount of fuel on tap if you start beating on the car for a long time and to protect against starvation? How would I need to modify the stock tank? The 260Z has a R180 diff, no? That's what I researched and ordered to OS Giken LSD to be matched to. The drivetrain components are all confirmed to be plenty strong for this HP goal. What exactly is this top-mount/bottom-mount conversion? I've never heard it mentioned before. I'll check out Garrett's calculator, sounds like the best move. What's a BOV? I can look for a quality intercooler, I was thinking a standard air-to-air. All in all, I want to do as much of this as I can (minus actual tuning, of course) because I want the knowledge. But, I also don't want to destroy my very first project car by forgetting to install a wideband O2 sensor (I don't even know where it would go as of right now) or something trivial like that, so I'm kinda leaning towards having critical work done by the shop I've used all this time. Seems like the really worthwhile projects can be seemingly impenetrable to noobs.

Can you clarify what this modification does and why it's needed? As of right now I'm understanding it as: there is a stock bypass of cylinders 5/6 in terms of cooling and this mod gets rid of this bypass to maximize cooling and prevent detonation? Thanks for the info. As of right now my build looks like: Protunerz S30 turbo exhaust manifold Protunerz intake manifold Garrett GT3582R Ball Bearing Turbocharger (Apparently functional to 640 HP, but it's what Protunerz recommends. I'm going to study the maps and other specs more thoroughly) Haltech 2000 ECU Dished Forged Pistons at 20 over (Shop told me that Ross is a solid reputable maker of these pistons) (Also specify recessed rings???) to get 8:1 or less CR (Possibly) H beam forged rods I think also from Ross. Not completely sold on this. 9mm ARP studs I assume I can just get the fuel rail, injector, pump etc. from Protunerz Associated sensors (I'll probably just get recommendations from my shop) Any glaring holes I forgot? I've already got my LSD, aluminum driveshaft and aftermarket ZcarGarage half shafts on the way. I installed a Centerforce clutch about 1000 miles ago, https://zcardepot.com/products/centerforce-ii-performance-racing-clutch-240z-260z-280z-280z I believe it's tolerant to ~282 ftlbs of torque? Cutting it a little close for my taste... but it's also brand new. I wish ZCarDepot would put product specs on their listings.

Thanks for the super comprehensive rundown! This kind of detailed explanation is exactly what I've been looking for. I've been getting mixed responses varying from "if you turbo that engine you'll blow it immediately" to "oh you could turbo that engine bone stock to 350 HP easy don't listen to these people trying to sell you stuff!" Anyway, I feel like 250HP is a pretty modest power goal considering these builds you see on the internet hitting 350-450. So if I'm understanding you correctly, the pistons are really the greatest weak spot? And goal number 1 is to avoid detonation... got it. But where do you guys find parts that match these descriptions? Just call up Rebello and get a quote on a set according to your application? What are the trusted manufacturers of the components I'm looking for? I'll use this rundown as a baseline. I'm very much of the mindset to overbuild now and not eat shit later when a component breaks from being overstressed.

Hey guys, I have a bone stock L26 in my '74 260Z. I'm in the middle of upgrading the drivetrain with an OS Giken LSD, aluminum driveshaft and aftermarket ZCarGarage CV Axles in preparation for some power upgrades. I've decided to keep the L26 in the car, but I'm trying to investigate ways to get to 250 WHP. I'm looking into turboing the engine, but I'm getting a ton of mixed responses on whether it'll need forged pistons, ARP 9mm head studs etc. I want to overbuild this set up so that I have a comfy safety factor and won't be overloading any components. Can someone help me figure out once and for all exactly what stock engine internals may need to be replaced? I'm also debating just going with ITBs and calling it a day. Thanks! My 260 for reference.