clint78z

The way this one works is kind of confusing, it has a big bar and a slot in the center . When one wheel slips in a straight line the bar goes into the slot and locks both sides . On a turn the outside wheel must turn faster unlocking the bar from the groove, which unlocks the wheels . It has springs to give a smooth unlock/locking . A normal locker has ratcheting teeth . I am pretty sure that you wouldn't want either in a sports car . Both would upset handling and transitions in and out of corners . When I spoke earlier I though you were talking about a clutch type, my bad .

Expect them to be fairly low for the 4x4 crowd . Probably a 4.11 which came in alot of 4 cyl pickup trucks .

Well I like to put a little note in, I like both motors . There are people that like to compare apples and oranges . I have worked on both motors and have drawn some conclusions . 350 Just plain works over 40 years of engine building experience Good low end torque Decent revabilty Good gas milage Cheap to do Lots of aftermarket parts It downright kicks booty in a Z L6 A sweet little motor for its size Almost indestructable bottom end A nice power curve A little more rpm Can be very potent as a turbo motor It sounds awsome One reason I like the L6 build up is that it will re-educate alot of narrow minded people that think their motor is the only way to go . For example Honda guys that think all others are crap, ford, chev ... etc. Myron one reason nissan dropped the L6 is to go to better motor VG30DETT, VQ35DE, RB26DETT . Yes Fotds V10 should have some more power, but it is a new motor and I see alot of room for improvement, but they did get 20% better gas milage than the 454 . There are people that no matter what you tell them, they are complete;ey brainwashed . Educate the ones you can, and ignore the others !! Building my heavy ass L6, and will enjoy it in the summer !! [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited January 02, 2001).]

Yes I will also put a plug in about getting boost . Take the wastegate an wire it open so no boost occurs . Tune you engine so it runs perfectly . Then gradually ease into increasing boost . You can't take mistakes back at high boost !! Those are awsome #'s, my New Years resolution is to get mine running . It's a fair commute to work on my car, but slowly it going back together . Hopefulley I can get my 2+2 into the 12's . [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited December 19, 2000).]

Ok I will give you the little overview on Air / Fuel managment Mass Airflow: uses a hot wire and a temperature probe . When air passes by the wire it cools the wire and changes the resistance . If we know the volume of air and the flow, then the mass of air is calculated. MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure): This takes the pressure and temp are used . On a stock engine with no changes to exhaust and intake, the mass of air is known using calibration instruments. This is a very educated guess of the mass of air . When you change parts from stock the guess gets further off and ECU must be programmed . The MAP sensor gives a pressure, the pressure is related to how hard the engine is working . High Vacuum means engine is not working that hard, low vacuum means it's working very hard . In order to tune your engine the mass of air must be known . Then to tune it you would use 14.7 lbs air to 1 lb of gas to set for a clean running car on the highway . For power when engine is working hard use 13 to 12:1 ratio . Basically to tune a car with a map sensor what you do is look at the pressure reading and an O2 sensor . For high vacuum reading, adjust fuel to make 02 sensor bounce back and forth . For low vacuum readings make sensor stay on the rich side . 0 bar is high vacuum 1 bar is no vacuum . Math can be used to help guess at what to set fuel at .

I am sure I would like the TEC II after a while and I think after a while I would like it after getting used to it . That is a good explaination of the setup of the TEC II, I think I almost understand it The SDS has points based on RPM idle to redline you simply enter in values . Then you enter in you numbers for vacuum 0-1bar or whatever sensor you use . From those values it makes a flat 3D grid for a fuel table . This is not ideal but way better than a carburator . The tuning proceedures really walk people through these steps . I hope we are not scaring guys away from EFI, if you take the time to learn the basics of EFI then tuning is way easier than a carburator . So make the correct choice If you are good at concepts and ideas and are good at math and reading graphs and want to spend a little extra for nicer features such as graphing and more tunability TEC II is a good option, be prepared to put your thinking cap on . If you have trouble with alot of number crunching, and would like a nice upgrade that can be tuned in a couple of weekends and you are off and running the SDS is probably the way to go . The system does run remarkabley smooth and will get the job done . I am a little more budget minded being Canadian since my dollar is worth belly button fluff !! I got my DFI system for $450us used, so I must suffer with limited datalogging capabilites .

TimZ you did not step on any toes and I hope I did not bash the product you own too badly . Discussions here are great and everyone usually learns more . I think where the SDS exceeds above all other packages is that it actually tells you how to tune your car rather than explaining the features of their system . A good coversation I hope to learn more, for those who don't know TimZ he is very knowledgable and taught me alot about EFI .

Yes it was me who bashed the TEC II I admit it and the reason is I still don't fully understand it . After researching things quite a bit between DFI, SDS, TECII . I have read the TEC II manual multiple times and read some tuning articles . What really gets me is the IOT, TOG and Volumetric effeciency tables . That is 3 things just to set the amount of fuel injected correct . In the DFI and SDS you just ask do I want more or less fuel at that rpm and load point . The SDS has a lean rich knob for manual adjustment and then you simply correct it later . Another thing that bothered me is the A/F ratio listed some people say they are setting it for 14.3 at full boost, this doe not make sense to me . Hopefulley you can clear this up for me TimZ, mabey it is easier to do once you get into it . Graphing can be a very good tool in tuning, I have to use Excel to graph my DFI stuff .

Old laptops can be had for $150 and can easily run old DOS version of TEC II software . I have studied the TEC II a fair bit it offers good datalogging useful if operator knows how to interpert the graphs . The fuel and ignition tables can be tuned more over an entire boost range . Howeveer it is a pain in butt to tune . The TEC II has some fancy idle features for big cam engines, and can control a VTEC solenoid or Boost solenoid . For 80% of the people the SDS is all that is needed . The SDS idles super smooth and has good enough air fuel control for a turbo motor . Conditions were I would step up to Tec II or Motech 1. If I was a real serious racer and pushed my motor to the limit. 2. If I had a high compression turbo motor and tried to run on street gas . 4. If I built a huge cam motor that ran crappy on the street with carbs, and I need the sophisticated EFI to make it run and idle half decent . 5. If I had dollar bills growing on my tree in the backyard . Just because it's simple doesn't mean it's a bad thing . For you carbie guys it is way easier to tune than a carb and the results are fantastic, no more it bogs a bit but it's real fast .

I am not saying that threaded NPT pipe would not seal, but there is a good chance it will fail . On a 2 1/2" pipe has 15/16" thread engagment, with the first 1/4" not providing any sealing at all . Then you get different expansion rates from different metals . The spacer like TimZ suggested looks like a real clean way to go and offers better boost control . It appears there is more room than I thought down there . [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited November 30, 2000).]

Welcome TimZ good to see you on the board, that is a nice way of mounting the wastegate, I wouldn't have thought it would fit that way . Clearances must have been fairly tight . Preheating is a key factor to welding cast-iron . The high carbon content makes it difficult to get a clean weld . Most average welders will do a crappy job at welding cast-iron . Find a good machine shop !!

A rear strut brace will prevent this from happening again in the future

Well I have no sympathy for the criminal in the razor blade story, nothing ever happens to most criminals who steal car stereos . Did you get charged for the razor blades ?? A good dose of cayenne pepper spray is friggin nasty, and will not hurt the person later on . It is something he will never forget !!

Almost no $x$'s have LSD in front it makes for poor steering . The rear might come with limites slip and ratios are 4 and up

Just to pop a little note in here about high compression turbo cars . Some of the new cars are trying this and only a few really well sorted out ones really succeed . Ie some try and run a 9.5:1 CR and the have to back timing way off so they lose their bottom end response anyway . When the could probably do an 8.5 CR and run more timing and have better low end plus way more up top . Don't forget Scottie's HP was at the wheels and was an awsome . Remeber Morgan that the head on the L6 is not as good as the VG30ET but it has a good strong bottom end . Steve Webb pulled an honest 300hp out of a flatop junkyard motor with his shaved P90 head .

This should answer most of your questions, 8.7 is a little high for pump gas on the L6 the head design isn't as good as newer turbo vehicles . 8.3 should be about right you won't gain much power by .5 of a compression jump . Got to zdriver.com downloads for the engine builder

Fantastic it doesn't look overdone at all, the 720's are easier to control on the larger displacement motors . A very effecient intake system on the RB26 makes things easier . How are controlling the NEO cams . That motor pulls like a freight train

I found out it is for the cold start injector, just for future reference if any one else needs this info

The carb plubling and other headaches such as vapour lock ... The EFI is also temp compensated a big thing on a turbo car . If he just wants turbo then on 92 he can probably get 210hp at 10psi, if he goes starion intercooler 14psi, personally I would spend extra $100 on an NPR . Then you could be 240hp at 15psi, with a bigger pump and 36lb SVO injectors . I think why people are reluctant to give pressures and HP on a certain gas is it varies so much . A poor tuned car can detonate at 10psi and kill you car . Proper tuning is the key, and knowing your limits .

That is one of my dream conversions, too bad the DOHC wasn't more plentiful . I think FORD should have went balls to the walls and went all DOHC and cut the price .

I wouldn't try doing a turbo carb setup, especially when an efi setup is already done . In most engines I woudln't say EFI is nessary, but a turbo motor EFI is sort of a requirement . You need to be very precise control over fuel and timing .

Pete if you are looking for go fast goodies for your eclipse go to dsm.org lots of used stuff . My brother is putting a starion intercooler up front I bought for $40us . There is a huge page of tweeks for your car like upgrading intercooler piping, removing air silencer squish top on Blow off valve ... The mods to the eclipse are fairly cheap if you do some research . A 3" exhuast make a fair bit of difference . For just over $1000 a 300hp is acheviable . Don't get sucked into those fancy expensive parts, there are a ton of these for turbo cars .

Excellent discussion here Pete, I am not all turbo and no SBC chev fan . There are some downsides to a turbo car, many times on this subject apples are compared to oranges . You have very valid points about downfalls of turbo . 1) You have less power on hotter days (true but a front mounted intercooler would help on your DSM or clean old one out with gas) 2) Harder to work on (2.8L mechanical is a snap and parts are reasonable) . The tuning takes much more care and poor tuning can kill a turbo motor dead . As you go up in cubic inches turbo lag is less noticable . The Chev 350 is cheap easy to upgrade and has a ton torque and can rev fairly high . I think eurozx is getting a good idea what both motors can do .

If you decide to go to the turbo route here is my page http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1553/ It has a budget page that you might find useful . Check out the links under zcar.com Scottie, Greg Kring have very good info . Also sds-efi.com is a good website for info and tuning . Drax layed out a nice package for you . 2 years ago there was no where near this kind of knowledge available on the internet .

http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm Talk with Bob Hanvey he has invested alot of research into the storker motor . A set of turbo 280zx injectors should do then recalibrate your AFM after .