clint78z

Well being a offraod guy as well I am fairly well aware how spring rate affects handling . I also have 5 position adjustable Rancho 9000 shocks in my stock pathfinder . A big heavy vehicle that has a fairly high Cg, alot lower than most SUV's . I play sports car in it, and practice smooth driving techniques as well . Our streets here a pretty poor with potholes and cracks . I tend to lean towards the softer springs, I am probably going to head towards an Eibach progressive wind . I am still debating wether or not to go with Koni adjustables or a 5 way Tokico's . If anybody has experience with these shocks I would like opinions . Intresting running a stock upper mount, this would probably elimate alot of noise and ride harshness . This might be an option I will look into . Can you do a coilover with progressive spring, I have never seen to many people use this combo. On a 240Z corner weight is about 600lbs that means at rest 200lb/in springs will be compressed 3", so if you have 7" springs that means you have 4" of travel left. That seems like a fair bit, that seems like a big bump to bottom this out . Mabey if you are airborne ?? One other thing to mention even if you have spring travel left, you might bottom out the shock something to check anyway . Want my suspendion to suck brains out in the corners, and not bang my teeth on the rougher roads .

Well I did some snooping around and the sz50 and RE730 look like extremely good tires . They fit into my budget, and I should be able to get 2 years out of them . I am really not one to abuse tires with big burnouts, but enjoy the ocassional 4 wheel drift . We have no high speed tracks around here, so a weekend autoX should be easier on it . Thanks for redirecting me on the tires, just got to save up for new tires in the summer .

The slotted rotors will have less chance of failure, the drilled ones can be prone to cracking due to stress concentration . Make inspection a routine, especially on a sfatey item such as brakes . I hear the KVR's are the way to go for street/race . They are more friendly on the calipers, cheaper than HAWKS . Sounds like a good setup for a reasonable price, very intrested in your impressions of the KVR pads .

Ross that post from the DIY EFI is off in lala land . That is way too complicated and a pain to tune, unreliable too . I would use a Chev IAC unit and a custom spacer . The nissan will work, but chev one may be able to be used to dirctly control rpm from ECU . You could use the Nissan unit like a high idle just put it on a switch .

Ross I don't think having a choke is an option, use the good ole right foot . Most systems use a Map sensor to give amount of fuel . The TPS is only used to see how quickly you stab the throtle, like a power shot. I would use the carb that has the least crap on it and is easy to mount the TPS, a smooth transitons in airflow . Go to the Merkur boards and buy the 370cc injectors used . Fun stuff here, keep us updated !!

Try the pink insulation in the antenna panel might cut exhaust droning more and that carpet underlay under the carpet .

The SR20DET is an awsome block with alot of HP cababilty, very sophisticated . For alot of people the 2.0l doesn't have enough low end . Rb26DETT is about $8000, in my opinion is one of the best engines in the world . The VG30DET is a much better engine than old supra engines . It has that nice blend of torque smoothness, and has good power potential . If you want more exotic go for the the VG30DETT, hard to fit and plumb but it will knock your socks off .

Thanks guys I always like hearing about experiences from others, If anyone else has some I would be glad to hear about them . My expectations are tire must last a minimum of 2 years with spririted driving . It must have a predictable breakaway point, and be stable after that point . Wet traction isn't a biggey in Sask. pretty dry .

I would say quote is pretty good, not a cheap thing to do . Here is what I would do to save some $$ . ECU and wiring harness $800 minimum (new) Probably close on this one airdoor $500 (use an old carb pull veturies and place temp sensor in air cleaner, no idle control) Injectors $400 (SVO 36lb/hr brand new) Get used ones I got mine cheap thanks to Scottie fuel pump $267 (porsche 930, advised by SDS) A Ford 460 or chev 454 pump from a junkyard should do, do a flow test under pressure to check . fuel rails $100 (material and labour) intake/bungs etc $100 (have the intake, bungs and labour) Yes a tad more The Edelbrock sytem is a good value, personally I don't think you would know the difference for a Chev 350 (not a shot, just does not require it like a turbo motor). Never underestimate DrewZ dual TBI, it is a pretty hot setup . [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited September 20, 2000).]

Hmm you had the 520's, you must have a huge need for traction . The problem is a bit of extra traction usually comes at a big expense in treadwear, and cash . I am always open to suggestions, what kind of tire are you going to get .

Well I like to research things a fair bit before buying, it comes from a tight budget . Anyway I was stuck on a set of Yokohoma A520's a cheap good tire that the weekend autoX guys love . However what dragged me away from this desicion was the new Kumho Ecsta, the have alost the same grip and have excellent tread wear of 320 . http://www.tirerack.com/tires/kumho/ku_712.jsp [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited September 19, 2000).] [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited September 19, 2000).]

Cheap & Easy Nissan L28 Cool & Loud Mazda Rotory A couple years down the road I would like to get my hands on a VQ35DE from a pathfinder and turbo charge it . If you are serious about this go to www.datsuns.com lots of 510 guys put rotories into there cars .

I trust tire stories about as much as fish stories . Or someone thinks all other brands besides his are garbage Does this sound familar "Datsun are junk, oh really what do you own, a pause Chevy Caviler!!" Here is a test against the 520 yok's http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/ecsta.html As you can see they do pretty good. Also Julian Edgar writer for Autospeed, liked them on his R34 Skyline . Based on past articles, I say he gives a fair judgment . He breifly mentioned that the handled well on a turbo 280z.

Here is some more good stuff http://www.sdsefi.com/techrail.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/techtheo.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/techmods.htm http://www.rancefi.com/ If you look under the Accel DFI description at white racing you can download the actual software as well . It is actually the full version . [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited September 19, 2000).]

Sorry about the bummed link it is http://whiteracing.com/ and it is very informative . I would recommend SDS website for all your EFI general info . A jig will be very useful when welding in the injector bungs . You can buy Fuel rail bar stock which is fairly cheap . With good planning and some machine work you can save alot of money .

Valid point BLKMGK, he probably doesn't need all that torque down low . The Force TB looks like a good way to go . I personally always try to save cash on junkyard parts, and home fabrication . Used injectors can save lots of money as well . The Accel DFI software can be copied from www.whiteracing.org, however the cable has a copyright protection on it .

quote: Originally posted by Ross C: thanks for the input to date guys:-) -as I understand it SDS doesn't offer datalogging which I see as a priority to maximize the combo with the miles I put on my car etc so they're out -my 280ZX V8 setup has quite a different configuration than V8 Z's, hence my stress on that point in my initial post, hood clearance is tight as stated, if I had an extra 1/2" I'd of filled it with a carb spacer by now (it's on the shelf, wouldn't fit) -I like the edelbrock proflo system but the $3k sticker is the stopper now, I already have the same intake they use so got me thinking to convert mine to a dry one and get best of both worlds (economy and high end hp from single plane) -it's finding a reasonably priced combo of the remaining (or all if I get a new manifold as well) items as listed to beat the $3k proflo system (I understand it's v. good, comments?) -Injectors and ECU's seem to an item I might be able to save on with used parts smartly shopped so once I know the best approach and my best system options I'll be ready to pick them up as they're available -how much are the TPIS big mouth 'LT1' intakes? (why named after the LT1?, flow similar? or similar in looks etc?) -using a late model LT1 EFI setup matched up with my engine interests me as these systems come available from time to time and parts would be readily available if need be, forgive this q but is it ridiculous to think my Vic. Jr. can be plumbed with injectors and then I make a custom 90 degree transition to mate to my intake that then carries on to a Lt1 (or similar) throttle body up front? I know airflow characteristics are critical and some proper transition from behind TB to intake entrance would have to be dealt with, just seems OE has it all nicely built in already w/o the big sticker price Fast frog: what TB are you using? or is it integrate in that 'lt-1' intake you mention? You might be able to find a used Accel DFI like mine I payed $350us for mine . Alot of chev 350 guys love this system, and it has a bit of datalogging . You can tune a system almost as good without datalogging it just takes longer . Here's what I would do is get that single plane manifold, be realistic when it comes to rpm limits for intake and cam . Weld injector bungs in . Make a plenum by copying the super-ram setup, sealed top lid . You are right about the 90 turn being big problem, the right size plenum is a good key as well . Then get a good TB simular to the superram . I imagine you could build a good one for $1000cdn .

Yes I would like to second the point on angles of u-joints . My dad did a swap of a 302 into a 56 ford . I told them about the driveshaft angles, but they shrugged it off . The truck has vibration under load, they still don't know what's wrong . I can only tell them so many times, but doesn't sink in .

I also used a jute foam like in carpet uderlay under the carpet of spare tire well, this helped a fair bit . Alot of noise came from whete antenna is mounted the exhaust loves to resonate this panel, a chunk pink poofy fiberglass insulation fixed that This cut my noise in half, the boxes behind the seats are also a big problem . 2 ways of sound dampening, weight the panel down and lower resonant frequency or you can absorb it with a foam . My Z wasn't exactly quiet like a new car after this, but cut the noise in half . Stick on Lynel floor can be used as a cheap Dynamat !!

My new big fat idea on rustproofing is the new roll on bedliner . It's fairly easy to apply, it's ureathane and very durable, a water tight seal . It will also prvide sound dampening . It plan to use this instaed of undercoating when I get new floorboards .

I have my DFI hooked up and just about all sensors are go . The fuel pump and 02 sensor power wire from ECU is not providing power output to my relay . FastFrog did the DFI pump come on as soon as you turned the key to on ??

Yes that is what I needed to know, I hope it is not the ECU . A ship back would a PITA, probably something I am missing I hear the ECU's are very reliable .

I think I am going to have to agree with Arif, the maps are a guide . The rael power and drivability are from trial and error on the dyno, and shop experience . Since we can't try turbo's on like a pair of pant's, check and see what others with good sucess are running . HKS and Greddy are Garrett cores I think . I think the T04E/T3 57 or 62mm wheel with the stage III turbine and .63 A/R would be a nice street setup and would get you into the 11's in 1/4 mile . After studying turbo's for a long time compressor maps aren't going to make alot of difference as long as the turbo is not over driven, it doen't surge, and the effeciency doen't drop below 60 percent . The difference in air temp between a 70% eff and 60% is not that much, a big intercooler will chill it anyways . A Jim Wolf package is good lot's of research, a real good way to go!! I recently learned that on big turbo they use a small A/R ratio to spool up turbo quickly, and then use a big wastgate to dump excess backpressure . If you tried this with a small internal wastegate, you would choke high rpm and load in your motor .

Wow DrewZ dual TBI is a nice setup which is cheap and effective . I suppose you have seen the DIY EFI list, tons of GM info . Later on I want to try the dual TBI on my dads Bronco 400 . Alot of chips suck, they bump spark timing up in a couple of places . Look to a fuel injection specialty shop and give them your specs .

Hmm some good info on rear disc brakes, I thought I read an article somewhere that someone use ZX discs and did a fairly simple mod to hook up the park brake . Might have to do some digging on that one . A good set of Carbon Kevlar pads will probably suite me with ZX discs . Too bad I didn't hear about the vented 300 setup in the front earlier, before I got standard Toy 4x4 setup .