clint78z

Yes I am cheap, Junkyard Yard Wars is my one of my favorite shows. I actually enjoy making nice stuff from old pieces. I have got my share of shiny on the car, but most came out of the bone yard, or previously enjoyed by another owner.

It appears I picked the only year they made with switch type TPS. Well I can go back to the yard for the 88 TPS sensor, it should be pot type. Seems like I always pick the short straw !!

Well I am starting to get sick of working on the car with a the fiddly little stuff and custom modifications. Instead of putting on my Mustang Throttle Body which needs a spacer, I bought a 300zxt TB that will bolt right on. I thought the TPS was a pot type needed for my DFI, its a switch!! So it looks like 2 steps back.

Ah ha a man of safety, here's what I am going to do when I start tuning. To get lowest possible boost, is disconnect the wastgate arm then wire the wasgate puck to the open position. It will probably get a couple of psi and will make normal tuning much easier.

I would like a copy, hope it's not too much extra trouble to ship one to Canada. Got the Darius Video on my hardrive, addicted to it. Anyone remember the name of that new ricer movie coming out soon ?? Lets us know when you want the $$.

Yes it's a stock GM ECU, they just use a serial connection to laptop. Too bad nissan didn't have the support like this. The program is Direct Scan, and I believe he has a tuner chip as well.

My motor was going to be a stock 280zxt motor pushing 225hp with some extra boost and mabey a starion intercooler. But it had no turbo, oh there is a hybrid for sale and it has fresh rebuild. It would be a shame to have that big hair dryer with no fuel for it. I decided to get a rising FPR but that was $250, I can get a DFI for $350. It would be a shame to put on a starion intercooler on that better spend extra $100 for the NPR. Do you see a pattern forming, happens real easy.

Yes I didn't have a photo of my car so I swiped his and put it on my webpage. He was all right with that, and it looks so damned good !! That car truely has it all, it's like a cyclist winning the Boston Marathon.

I will talk a bit about A/F ratios and O2 readings. First stoichiometric ratio is 14.7:1 for gasoline, it gives complete combustion of gases and gives the best emmisions. Typically 500mv on the O2 sensor. Running leaner 15:1 and up gives good gas milage,the engine runs hot and can give bad emmisions. This is lean cruise typically 499mv-0mv reading. 499mv being above 14.7:1 and 0mv even higher. The numbers cannot be transfered to exact ratios. Running rich 14.6 and below O2 readings are 501mv-1000mv. No exact ratios can be had from O2 readings . Ok heres why Scottie tunes for 780mv, with a ton of experience of the GN guys they have determined for that exact motor that 780mv is the best number to tune to. This will probably give a A/F ratio of 13-12:1 which is the safest and produces the most power on that particular motor. Using a wide band O2 sensor would be ideal, but Scotties way is a very educated guess on A/F ratio.

The autosite has some good articles on efi and other stuff. http://www.autosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency07d.asp

Yes if you don't know anything about turbos that is the best way to go. Things you will want to tell him and options you may want. 1) Weight of car 2) Size of engine 3) 2V head 4) Useage ie 80% street 20% strip 5) Octane of gas You probably want water cooled for reliability. Majestic is pretty good and will walk you through the entire process.

The coolest one I have ever seen was a total sleeper/commuter and handled well . It was a nissan pulsar (pullstart) with a VG30et and used a 200sx tranny and bellhousing. Fast nimble and a true sleeper quiet. A 510 with a VG30 has been done as well as an L28. Racing a 510 has limitless options for dirt cheap.

External wastgates are nice, but a bit of a pain to intsall and there is the extra cost. For now I would stick with internal wastegate and see how things pan out. You can go with the fancy Apexi-AVCR which is top notch but alot of $$. I bought a spring and ball(Hallman type) boost controller from a dodge turbo guy. It cost $35 and gives quick spoolup characteristics just like the electronic ones do. Do a search on the net for Hallman boost controllers. They are cheap simple yet very effective .

I have heard way too many bad things about TEP as far as service and knowledge . Texas Turbochargers in Waco is very knowledgable. I am biased because this is where I got mine, T3/T04E-57mm, stage III turbine with .63 A/R. The TO4E is a bit newer series which has a broad range of effeciency. However I suspect it will do quite well at 17-19psi. You should be able to sneek in some runs without an external wastegate. I expect mine to be acceptable for boost creep with internal wastgate. A ball and spring boost controller should help stabilize boost more than the standaerd bleed type system.

You won't get an L28 to pull like an RB26dett, Nissan did some major engineering to this motor . Once you start shooting for that +450hp option the RB option looks better and better . Lets break it down L28 setup $700 Pistons $2000 EFI system $200 Fuel Pump $300 Injectors $500 min for intercooler & piping $1000 headwork $500 L28et block $700 Turbo $200 Blow Off $1500 for stuff I missed I know this doesn't add up to the cost of an RB26 conversion but for mabey another $2,000 more you could have so much potential, plus amazing powerband .

That is truely awsome, a 3700lb car doing that fast on pump gas. Greg sure does know how to tune them. It will be very intresting when he gets his Z done, he has the know how to get that one into the 11's. Anybody heard from Stealth Webb, intrested if he got his coilpack conversion done on the DFI . The GN is not exactly aerodynamic, heard of them referred to as the flying barn door

Personally I would not go with the Wolf, the high, low datalogging is a joke . Either pay extra $$ for Tec-II datalogging or buy the SDS. Many very well tuned fast cars use SDS, I don't think the datalogging is worth $700 or more. Datalogging is a very nice option, but it isn't the end of the world if you don't have it . I haven't checked the price on the Haltech E6k, but it has crank fire and decent datalogging . Check into this one !! "People have biased opinions, when it's not their money they are spending"

A car built by AEM had a T56 mated to an L6, and another guy on zcar.com claimed he had done it too . I was unable to get details from either person. Personally I don't think the ratios would be quite right for the L6, but you could easily do up a spreadsheet program and compare it to the Z 5 speed . Seems like a little overkill, and yes they are not cheap, I would imagine a custom bell housing or clutch would be needed . You may want to compare the Borg Warner T5 bellhousing from a ZXT with the T56, who knows it might just bolt on ??

I think that the Haltech E6K is a good option and should fit the bill nicely . It has good fuel control features and a simple to use software system . It has decent datalogging as well as crank trigger capabilties. I think they are in the ballpark $$ wise as well. You may be able to find a good Tec-II used for a decent price .

Beat this I have a 386sx 16mhz (ooh) with 3 meg of ram(upgraded) with a 40mb hard drive . It's sole purpose now other than a paper weight is to program my DFI.

Here would be my picks 1. Aftermarket EFI 2. Forged Pistons, ARP rod bolts and head studs, HKS gasket 3. Headwork if you want that much power, also I would recomend a good engine builder for the entire assembly. 4. New clutch

Looks good, elbow grease for sure that intake is a bear to detail . Both my tanks have been blended like Evan's .

The P90 is a fairly good flowing head, use a little cleanup around the valve guides . It could have a bit better design for detonation resistance, but is good for an older design . Any cam other than stock is probably a waste of time for most people . If get a higher lift cam it will tank your low rpm and make it worse. The turbo shoves all the air the engine can use at high rpm . You can shave the P90 to give 8.5:1 compression which will give you more low rpm punch . You have the Vtrim, with Bell intercooler, and 3" exhaust . Perhaps your wastegate is not closing all the way, or mabey tuning is off. You don't have aftermarket EFI do you, more than likely low rpm A/F ratios are not quite on giving poor throttle response and spoolup . I would suspect poor fuel managment from the Bell FMU is giving you the problems . There are more than a few stock P90 heads pushing +300hp . [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited March 13, 2001).]

Speaking of the Wolf EMS, I agree about controller looking better and it has the capability of laptop output. Personally I think the Auzzie's make some of the best EFI packages around Motech, Haltech, Wolf, Autotronics ... Unless there is something very wrong with the code is written, it's all about options and user friendlyness . Do a good amount of reaserch before buying, ie know how to program it before you buy it . Ask others there opinions on a well setup Wolf EMS system that has had dyno time .

I have heard alot of bad things about top ends service, try rebello or sunbelt . Likely SS are not needed for your application, other than a quality valve job and some minor port work is all that is probably required . Spend the money on the turbo, intercooler or EFI system where it counts .