clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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Well after trying to get Scotties wonderful mandrel pipe to fit on my 78z, it just wouldn't clear
. So I decided to do a temporary fix with muffler elbows and pipe. I was able to get the pipe in the same place as Scotties old setup and clear the distributor. I also made up a spacer and made the stock fan fit with the shroud as well. Now instead of going with silicone elbows which are $$, I used rubber plumbing elbows. The cool thing about these is the pipe actually butts up against the elbow to further reduce chance of leaks and blow offs. I am a bit worried that the one on the turbo won't take the heat but we will see. I plan to make some drawings for others after I get the car going. Hopefulley it will be soon considering my busy schedule.
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Agreed the vise grips are the best method for this. Heat them right up, then tighten the visegrip as much as you can. Start rocking back and forth in small motions, and keep going in these small motions until it is all the way out.
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Alot of people scratch their heads when it come to small engines making big HP. What exactly do they do to make a 1.5 put out 800HP.
The first big secret is they switch to alcohol, you can run way more igition advance, boost and is much more stable.
The entire motor is balanced and the usuable rpm is shifted way up. This cuts down on engine life considerably.
I heard that BMW's engine pegged there 1500hp dyno, it was dialed back for reliabilty. On the last lap they would up the boost and run full out.
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I think when I get around to tuning my car a set of pressure taps will be installed, then I can hook up a manometer when the car is on the dyno. That way I can see what the max pressure drop is on the NPR intercooler.
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Mabey email Fel-Pro and see what they can come up with, might be able to get an equivalient for cheaper??
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Hey Stealth good to have you on the forum, any updates on the car lately?? Those are some very impressive #'s for the dyno. I am hoping my spoolup will be fairly close with the T3/T04E-57mm stage III. Probably won't be quite as good, due to the larger wheel diameter, might have a little more up top though.
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Thanks for the quick responses, I guess I will have to do some hunting. Struck me as rather odd that the 88zxt was still switch type. Long weekend coming up, time to light a fire under that engine and get it stoked up.
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Those stickers should add like another 100hp
Going to look pretty fancy, green with envy!!
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Argh I went to the junkyard to get a 300zx throttle body for my 280zxt motor. I got one off an 84 300zxt, it's good except it's switch type TPS. So the next weekend I swap it for an 88 300ZXT TPS thinking it would be potentiometer type, nope. Is it only the non turbo's that used the Potentiometer type that I need for my Accel DFI fuel inkection.
Scottie what year and make did you use??
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The VG30 is probably the better way to go, it will save you a ton of weight. The weight will give better acceleration not to mention better handling.
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Here is a good article on porting it has all the stones and tells you the roughness. You are right about have a certain amount of roughness to promote fuel atomization.
Heres a good link http://home.coffeeonline.com.au/~camaro/diyport.htm
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I find the easiest way to explain derivatives in calculus is to go back to a simple graph that most people know. Think of a car in a 1/4 mile. x is the distance from start and t is the timeon the bottom of the graph.
x=dist | ft
t=time | sec
When doing a deravative on the graph what you are really doing is checking the velocity of the car at each time.
So the second graph after you take the deravative is
v= velocity | ft/sec
t= time | sec
Third graph
a=acceleration | ft/sec^2
t=time | sec
Velocity, acceleration are all related back to the distance and time. Calculus just uses fancy math to find velocity and acceleration.
Hopefulley no one was to confused, mabey someone got a light bulb after that.
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A good suggestion is to find someone with Mechanical Desktop or better modeling software. Get them to do a 3D design, this will show you things that you would have never thought about. It allows optimization quickly, and you can cut material costs. I imagine his services could be traded for a pair of control arms.
I would volunteer to do this, however our company is limited to 2d modeling FEA structural analysis. If you want I could draw you parts in 3D autocad solids, I just can't do the analysis in 3D.
Remember shock loading can stress the part 3-8times as much as normal loading.
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Funny story, my brother wanted to quiet down his 3" for a trip. He got a can and drilled a whole bunch of holes in it. He reved it up and the can shot out. Our puppy snagged it and ran like hell.
So he find a piston out of a rototiller and clamps that in. I told him that the pistons have to be in the engine to make more power, he flipped me the bird -
Stick a potatoe up the tailpipe, serouisly a you could temporarly seal the exhaust pipe, voila !! Small leaks usually occur at a low pressure, and bubbles from soap show up easily.
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You mentioned you might be loosing boost, hmm I have a thought for testing that. To actually test a turbo system for leaks is usually hard. I plan to get an adapter and use the air compressor to pressurize the entire intake system to about 20 psi. I will then use soapy water to detect leaks.
Just a thought I had, our company air tests alot of pressure vessels this way.
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The autospeed guys spent more money on the releif and bleed valves. The also put a one way check valve around the inline system to allow trapped air to cycle to bleed back so it wouldn't be trapped by the relief valve between shifting.
The relief valve is actually a brass grainger valve used on power washers about 15-$20 at most parts stores. I bought mine from a dodge turbo guy for $30 and he gave me some silicone hose as well.
These systems are just as effective as those $500 electronic boost controllers, just not as user friendly. You can also setup your boost curve with these 2 valves, ie how fast boost comes on and the peak boost.
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Yes the knock sensor is just a peizoelectric microphone. Whenever a noise is detected it creates a voltage based on how loud the noise is. On GM vehicles there is an ESC (electronic spark control) module. This is basically a filter for the ECU. It determines whether the voltage from the knock sensor looks like a detonating engine, or it is background noise. The ESC module then gives power to the ECU if it senses knocking.
The ESC modules are designed specifically for that engine. I read an article that said detonation actually occurs before it is sensed. The detonation sensor usually cannot detect very minor detontation, but it's better than a poke in the eye.
As for aftermarket ECU's with detonation sensors, I do not see how they determine what is normal noise for that engine and what is detonation. Mabey you set the filtering yourself??
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The site is www.autospeed.com, I do have a subscription to this site, however they don't like you giving the articles out. The articles are very technical, informative .
Their article is even more involved, and provides a little more adjustability. Scottie's is cheaper and almost as effective.
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You notice that I wrote that you do what you have to on a budget. I myself have a tight budget for the car, Scotties NPR is about the best intercooler you can get for the price. You will probably pay $150 more than a starion unit but you have double the capacity. The piping and hoses usually cost about $250 as well, Scottie did a nice budget on his page. Z ferrari I would keep what you have for now, then save a little extra $$ for an NPR core and piping.
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I posted this one a while back here's the link, hope you are sitting down Scottie
http://nissan180.8k.com/catalog.html
Whoops not it, I found it somewhere I was looking at the nice grill inserts, hang tight.
Sorry I couldn't find it, I posted that find a while back don't know what happened.
I did see one in english with prices I am not hulucinating dammit!!
[ April 25, 2001: Message edited by: clint78z ]
[ April 25, 2001: Message edited by: clint78z ]
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Haha that one is funny, I actually saw that one. Anyhow I guess I should have finished the post. The skid pan plays a big role in the intercooler and radiator effeciency. It acts as a shroud so positive pressure isn't built up on the engine side. Having fresh air is ideal for the air cleaner, however a big intercooler with good intercooler piping is better. Z ferrari's piping is far from ideal, but you do what you have to on a budget.
When you do your intercooler piping use as few bends as possible, also don't use long rubber joints. 2 1/4" for piping and 3" for filter are standard sizes. Here's what a well planned intercooler piping looks like.
http://www.zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/icmods.html
My bad TimZ, shouldn't have lead Tom down that road.
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These are the pics you are talking about right Z Ferrari, my intercooler is a little too big to do it this way. I would have to route 3" under the car and then to my filter. We have some bad roads here and I worry about smackin that pipe .
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I am in the same boat as you, I have factory A/C on a 76 with bumper shocks and A/C lines get in the way. The only real room is on the turbo for the air cleaner. Underneath is not very good on a road car that can squish the pipe. I scratch my head and have not come up with anything.
. So I decided to do a temporary fix with muffler elbows and pipe. I was able to get the pipe in the same place as Scotties old setup and clear the distributor. I also made up a spacer and made the stock fan fit with the shroud as well. Now instead of going with silicone elbows which are $$, I used rubber plumbing elbows. The cool thing about these is the pipe actually butts up against the elbow to further reduce chance of leaks and blow offs. I am a bit worried that the one on the turbo won't take the heat but we will see. 
So he find a piston out of a rototiller and clamps that in. I told him that the pistons have to be in the engine to make more power, he flipped me the bird 
price on a skyline 2.6 TT
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
My brother has a talon and it's fairly fun in the dry, but we get like 6 months of winter here and it is sooo much fun in the winter. A cop would be totally useless against this car in the winter. We are big fans of WRC, and pretend to be Collin Mcrea (except we never roll it
)