clint78z

I have a question regarding the mounting custom rotors and calipers. In general when bigger rotors and calipers are used things aren't in the stock location. It seems the general way to do things is to make a custom hat for the new rotor to the correct location and the caliper bolts to the ears on the strut. Yes I think this is a good way to go, however it requires a 6" chunk of metal that must be precisely centered on hub. A simpler way would be to space the rotor from the ears and get longer bolts wouldn't it. I am not saying that this is better just simpler wouldn't it?? The bolts don't actually have a shear force on them as long as the clamping force is high enough. Thought this might be a good discussion.

I am in a bit of a pickle here, I need new tires on my car since they have huge cracks and out of balance badly. I have 14" donuts on there and I don't really want to spent $$ on mediocre tires. I am leaning very heavily to 5 lug Cobra 17" rims and 245 Kumho 712's, which is fine and dandy I have the $$ to swing for these. However it's all the other components I can't afford like the rear disc and front brake upgrade package.I won't be racing this year, so I won't be dying for a brake upgrade. So here is my question can I redrill the rear drums for 5 lug, throw a wheel spacer on the rear. Then get a 300zx front hub and throw in a rotor spacer there????

Reminds me of a small story of our army drivers course. We were driving down town in a 3 1/2 ton 6 wheel drive monster, this thing can mow over trees like tooth picks. We pull up to the stop lights and buddy in camaro yells out "Hey wanna race" ??? And laughs his punk ass off. Army guy sticks his head out the window and replies "Hey wanna play smash up derby" ???

No No don't worry about the hint, it was simple and to the point. Don't I wish everything was that. Tuning is put on the shelf until I get a wideband, the AEM 0-1v looks good and not crazy expensive. Busy installing my ZG flares and prepping for paint.. I will keep everyone updated. Thanx again, C

Agreed that you don't have to run in closed loop for idle, my car runs quite well in open loop. The thing is it takes more time to set up for closed loop, many don't bother. You have to massage the cells, didle with the timing and throttle plate. I am not sure if my DFI has enough control to make this happen. My 0 to 1 bar fuel table is shaping up rather nicely, with mabey 2-3 percent correction in a few areas. The TPS and delta MAP enrichments are, fairly close. I can't set the O2 trim authority so every once and a while at high vacuum light cruise the O2 sensor keeps jerking. Once I get this map close to bang on, I will lean it out a little more and then turn closed loop right OFF !!! Thanks BLKMGK for the link, it looks like a good way to go since they clamped down on NTK sales. I couldn't find a price on the AEM setup, wouldn't happen to know what it is worth ?? I will post some datalogs soon so everyone can have a look, and I will write a little bit on how I went about tuning it.

Might I suggest something like this Ross, it's a variable butterfly much like on the Mitsu 3000GT. I have seen in the US a company is designing these as well, mabey a junker Mitsi will have one for cheap ?? http://autospeed.com/A_0883/cms/article.html

Some one is watching way too many reruns of Knight Rider

Although it does not pertain to the Z31 ecu's like so many ppl here use, it does give a very good over view if chip programming for a Z32. I really like the way he explains the overall picture, this artcle is better than most. Usually they either no details, or it skips the basics and goes too in depth for most to handle http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/turboupgradeforvg30dett/id10.html

Thanx for the help, I think I got it. I took the datalog sorted the columns by Map point, then I did a 2d scatter graph the info. IE: I did a chunk of all -12.5psi Map points, then used rpm as the X axis. And O2 correction, and base pulsewidth, on the Y axis. From there I can tell that I need to reduce my base pulse width by 6 percent. Then I just do another chunk of data right ?? I am going to post some graphs and a little writeup so everyone can see the steps to go about tuning and datalogging. PS subtle hint about the email being out of date , I moved last month and forgot to update

I have done a fair amount of graphing in Excel, I did one of my fuel map and had to manually create a series to get it graph 3 variables on a surface graph. Mine was rpm, map, and inj pulse width on each axis. Can I simply create a 3d scatter graph of this info with a few mouse clicks, I try but it will not cooperate. I want it to plot a whole bunch of points so I can see which load point needs to be modified up or down. If you have suggestions of other ways to do this it would be great. This list is long and keeps going in the log O2Crrctn (%) Mnfld Prssr (PSI) Engn Spd (RPM) 7.8 -6.22 2600 9.36 -6.34 2525 7.8 -6.59 2600 6.24 -5.97 2550 7.02 -5.97 2625 5.46 -6.34 2550 7.02 -6.22 2675 5.46 -6.22 2675 4.68 -6.47 2650 .................

Yes alot of good information, I did have a chance to pull some datalogs this weekend. For now I am getting the map sorted out under 1 bar or zero psi. I am using closed loop correction to indicate which cells need to be set higher or lower. I am tuning them all to stoich for now, it seems to be working fairly decent. It still doesn't want to idle smoothly when I try to idle too lean it has trouble under 1.34ms on my DFI. I took TimZ's suggestion and knocked back the timing at idle and opened up the idle bypass a little more. I am still not at stoich but closer. The throttle response off idle is not quite up to par, but decent. The O2 sensor is a real pain in the butt at light cruise, dialing fuel in and out. I haven't really touched the igntion maps yet, another friend says he uses a gmeter and tunes for max G force without knock. Yes my cheap ass might have to go wideband if I can find an NTK anymore for cheap. Anyone have a secret source for a cheap NTK sensor ??

Dude your from Saskatoon as well, I didn't even notice until now. Have to take the cars out to the Slalom Races. I have to finish my a couple of things up first. I am aware of inventor, I can't get my paws on it since it costs too much and you need some serious computer to run it when files get big. I really like some of the features of it, autocad can be a pain in the butt when revising solids !!!

Well if some people have Autocad and have never used 3d, I would encourage them to give it a shot. Do the tutorials in the help file, they actually are helpful who would have thought ??? The biggest hurdle to get around is orienting yourself in 3d space. There were quite a few times in the beggining that the line looked good, only to find in another view that it was way off in space. So do the tutorials like twice before you even look at my drawing, important not to skip steps (tried it and it was just more confusing). Any questions just post them here. I think it would be fun if everyone gave it a go, it makes fabricating and fitting parts so much easier. 8) 8)

ALL AVAILABLE DRAWINGS ARE TO BE POSTED ON JIM'S WEBSITE It is done to cut down emailing them all over the place, and so everyone has acess to them. So we can all share them and add to parts and peices to it. So go to this website below and click on frame.dwg http://hybridz.jimzdat.com/zpics.htm If you have drawings or adding anything to please email it to Jim and he will post it at the website for all to share. jim@jimzdat.com PS Spotfitz I will email you a converted one to R14 format.

Please email all drawings to Jimdatz that way everyone has acess to them on the website. If you have a pic of what you have drawn it is helpful too. Spotfitz which drawing do you want in version 14, I will convert whatever one you want.

I am glad you found someone you trust to tune your car. Sounds like they are getting you on the right track. Take it slow and learn lots along the way.

All grounds for injectors, O2 sensor, ECU, Fuel pump collect from the DFI from factory DFI wires to a gold ring terminal to stop corrosion that and it's not flimsy, and bolt connects 12 gauge stereo wire directly to starter ground on block. I have done what you suggested Pete start rich then carefully lean it out in small steps. The stock O2 sensor isn't fast acting, nor can it be trusted to tell any info besides stoich, rich, or lean. I still think it is enough to get a fair amount of info to tune my engine, if I take things carefulley.

Thanx so much for everyone helping me, support is quite poor for the DFI surpising since it has been on sooo many Chev 350's. The datalogging on the DFI is something to be desired, it's only text based but I can deal with that. The main downfall I hear is poor resolution when datalogging over 4 variables at a time. I do understand that the amount of pulsewidth is based on many factors. Intake and exhaust tuning effects, cam profile .... It should generally follow the torque output line. I smoothed everything out because there were too many holes that made trying to tune the cells impossible. I have tuned a bottom half of base fuel map running closed loop, which shows the AFR bar. Example I ran closed loop cruising on the highway and made the all the numbers in the cruising cells 14.7 AFR with zero O2 trim. Above that I was trying to set to run 13:1 (calculated by DFI) but still in closed loop for brief periods of time, the )2 sensor was trimming back my values. Thank you for the excel suggestions, I have done a bit with this before but still a rookie. A quirk with Calmap is that it only displays AFR when in closed loop on a bar in the base fuel table. I can't datalog it what a pain in the butt. Options for datalogging this problem I see rpm, map, O2 correction, O2 voltage, additive pw, base pw, mult corr, gross pw. Can I use the O2 correction for that scatter graph instead of AFR you mentioned ??

The DFI simply has a base fuel map, no VE Table. It is a 16x16 table load vs rpm and you punch in a pw injector value. It has TPS and Map rate on top of that which I set back to zero to tune the table. What is funny is my cells in the cruising range are fairly tight to the 14.7, the only number I can be sure of. The surronding cells are have no big holes in them. It goes from 1.8 to 2.0 ms around cruising range. Then when I turn on the closed loop correction it's going wild pulling it back to 1.4ms then compensating to 2.7ms This got me thinking that mabey it's a dirty O2 signal, poor ground possibly. I did clean my battery terminal this weekend, and noticed the +ve cable was attached to the starter had a stripped nut. I swapped in a newer type starter and made sure my it had a good clean connection. Do you recomend ground the DFI to engine block or battery -ve post ?? I am also looking for a good corrosion cleaner mabey even acid to clean connections of my fuse box. It got nailed by soda from previous paint job, sand paper is not getting the job done. I was about to check regulator, it has the non solid state type external. However the battery died in the multimeter. I agree that wideband is the only way to go for tuning any ratio besides 14.7 to 1. That is why I am leaving the boost set at 7 psi until I have acess to a dyno. I want to get all the bugs I can see fixed before I turn up the wick. PS TimZ, I am beginning to really like the Tec II the more I understand it. The instructions could be a 1000 times better, once you get your head around it has some really nice stuff. Alas I could not find one for $350 like my DFI, which is good value.

Well last thursday I was reading a ton of suggestions TimZ had in the archives of Vishnu forum for the Tec II I learned so much. After I lowered the timing and tried to lean it out. I found one problem I had was the closed loop hysterisis lower limit was 650 and high was 1800rpm DOH !!!. I set it to 750rpm on the top. I was able to get it to idle closed loop not too bad. I took it back on the highway and noticed that in closed loop cruising it was too off and on like a water tap changing from 1.9ms to 2.7ms too jerky in my opinion. So I turned closed loop off and it ran smooth at 1.9ms and got better vacuum. I have to track wiring issues since my voltage varies up and down almost one volt. I will let you all know how it goes.

That some tricky sheetmetal welding there, must be like trying to weld rice paper. Some drivers must get one hell of a surprise from that sleeper, with a teeny hint of what is inside.

I got it to idle quite nicely at 1.4ms, not sure others get there cars to idle with big ole 550cc injectors. The bar says 13:1, but I take that with a grain of salt. The car went on it's first road trip, it shocked me with 37miles/imp gallon, which =30mpg for US. On the way back I discover that the O2 sensor and Coolant temp sensor were giving intermittant readings. I think something is wrong with the wiring harness, might be why the previos owner sold it for cheap. Most of my tuning is has been done on the highway double lane to be safe, I had to do quite a bit of smoothing on the map I got. It had several holes in it, this got rid of most of the bucking and chucking. Is this right the way I did it In working with the lower half of the base fuel map I set closed loop and adjusted everything besides idle for zero trim by the O2 sensor feedback. IE if closed loop was turned off it should still run 14.7. Then I started to adjust the TPS enrichment to get rid of the momentary lean condition. Then I adjusted the map enrichment to take care of the hills when turbo spools up without throttle input. At 7 psi on the highway it pulls like a frieght train, tuning is quite fun when everything is installed properly.

Check the vacuum line that runs from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, replacement of vacuum hoses every 5 or so years will cut down on a lot of bugs. Plugs wires and distributor cap, and plugs are your next cheapest option. Check the wiring harness, and the rubber intake hoses for cracks.

Good suggestions from every one. Yes I have read that a high overlap cam can hinder idle quality. However mine is a stock L28et, the turbo cams are very mild as far as overlap. It pulls a solid 15"hg at idle, that should be more than enough. I can run open loop at idle, it runs decent like this a few little burbles. As soon as I start to lean out the base fuel map so the 02 sensor has zero trim, it surges. It runs decent for about 3 seconds then almost dies then back up again. One note is that to run stoich at idle the injectors require 1.2ms pulse on the 370cc injectors. Mabey the injectors are becoming unstable at this low pulse width, and are not spraying consistently?? I know a decent amount about datalogging but still learning, is the a set of variables I shoud be looking at ?? It has base pw, gross pw, voltage, 02 V, rpm, map ....

My accel dfi has been running better and better. I tried do closed loop idle and it is not working out so well. I get a surging effect, I am not too sure if it is my programming or mechanical/electrical issues. I made all cells around the idle fuel and timing equal, to avoid hunting. A weird thing is that the battery voltage is up and down from 13.5 to 14.7v. The O2 sensor is heated but some times it's voltage drops right off to .023V for a brief second. Any suggestions of where to start snooping ??