clint78z

It was more the support & amount of parts they stock. I have been reading the msefi forums and they seem like they know a lot, and always willing to lend a hand. Anyhow it should be a fun kit to build, I hope it goes a bit smoother than Tony D I hope to contribute some tidbits, we have so much good info here. I am planning on wasted spark EDIS, mabey COP later?? It would be cool to see a bunch of 11sec timeslips from the turboZ's Big-phils videos are priceless, he is like a kid in a candy store.

I jumped on board and purchased an MSII kit form DIYAUTOTUNE. They werem't kidding when they say fast serviced. It was boxed up in under an hour. I figure it's about time I got one, I have been reading that website since it was efi32, wonderful project that took off. I am glad it stuck to the original free development concept, and sharing the info. So many toys, the new datalogging and EDIS 6 made me take the leap. I am hoping to get up to speed, and do a bit of programming later on.

I believe Endyne is one of the most underated companies in the biz. I read a wonderful article on the person who started it. He used to build engines for Bob Glidden when he was kickin ass for so long. Reminded me of Smokey Yunich, the amount of ingenuity, not quite the personality.

The more you read about the Buggatti, the more impressive it gets. If it raced a Mclean F1, the Buggati could sit there and wait for the Mclearn to get to 120mph then start and it would still beat it to 200mph. The thing is an engineering marvel, I heard there are actually 5million to produce. This is an actual functional 1000hp reliable road car. I definately have to tip my hat !!!

In general I am very impressed with Inventor, it has a very natural flow to working with it. Have you seen MCAD forums, they have a lot of good info on Inventor. The models would be a great way to share information. The dimensions can be linked to an excel spreadsheet. Then people could custom design their own parts. I have some crude 280z front suspension models I did when I was learning Inventor only months ago.

Good work I actually do a bit of inventor from time to time, the most impressive stuff is easy in the program. The simple stuff like doing an array of an array become more difficult, or building a stable predictable model takes a bit of thinking ahead. Inventor isn't the greatest at surface modeling, but can do a good job with a bit more work.

I believe it is made of pyrex a high temperature type of glass. It can also take one hell of an impact. It was used on Armoured personel carriers, the driver would look through when the hatch was down.

Some good info guys, and another great curtious discussion. I plan to donate next month, I just find it intresting with no direct benifit to me. There can be a lot of really great info possiblities here if planned out right. Optimize brake cooling, air inlet temps, cross wind stabilty, rear diffuser, chin splitter. One thing I have always found helpful in dealing air flow is think in terms of absolute pressures instead of gauge. Air always flow from higher pressure to lower pressure, it avoids a lot of confusion.

Isn't there a calibration screen for the O2 sensor in the TEC2, not sure if it will allow for postive slope. Dig around the innovate motorsports webite it has some good info on using other sensors with the TEC2.

Most igntion systems today put out way more voltage than is required to completely combust the gas. Having 200,000 volts at the secondary side would have no benifit if it only takes 30,000 volts to combust. The benefits in the DIS igntion are the accuracy of ignition timing, the module optimizes coil charge time to give maximum output based on speed. Another benifit of wasted spark is cleaner emmisions, and keeps deposits out of the chamber. Carbon deposits can cause preigntion.

I have made a great deal of progress with inventor and have most features figured out by now. The constraints were the hardest part, especially on the adaptive parts. A big hurdle to get over is drawing without precision like Autocad, fill in all the blanks after. I have dimensions linked into an excel spreadsheet and have done avi animations of the strut. For some reason the file is huge, not sure what's up with that. If somone could give me strut dimensions and control rod dimensions I can plug them in and begin analyzing the suspension. http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/SPRING.jpg

I have to learn Inventor anyway, so using it on the chassis is just easY to deal with something I know. Once you know what you are doing in inventor, you can whip up a suspension in no time. I imgaine the programs have limits on the type of modifications you can do. I can also use it for building other car parts.

Inventor is much like Solidworks, it replaced Mechanical Desktop. One of the big features of these programs is parametric modeling. For example if I want to change the wheel size from 15" to 16", I just type in the new dimension and it updates automatically. I have heard of grape, many great racers have used it. Keep us updated in the thread.

I think if we concentrate on the front control arm and strut it should be a nice start to get the ball rolling. Lentgth & width and mounting points of the control arm. The diamter of strut and lengths. I will sift throught the manual and see if I can dig up any more info.

I would like to desgin the 240-280z suspension and model it on my computer. I recently got a new job and we have Autodesk Inventor, which has amazing possiblites. We can tweak things easily, run different scenarios, do stress analysis. Animate through full range of motion, check for binding, caster camber, spring sizing, you name it. I recently grabbed the PDF file from pparaska site and have the frame and mounitng points done. I need more info and my car is stored an hour away. Any dimensions you guys have on struts, steering geometry pass it this way. I want this to become a thread so we can all learn from, technical terms, design, improvements. Pictures and spreadsheets will all be free for everyone to use.

At first lap welding seems easier, it's a bit misleading though. Lap welding is actually harder to weld between the two. It will favour one edge and is hard to get the penetration in the proper place. Take all your time with fitup of a zero gap buttweld and welding seems a whole lot easier. It you have big gaps in a butt weld it's almost impossible. FIT UP, spend the majority of your time there.

ACtually many cars have splices, very common older way of doing it. If you solder that connection it will eventually work harden the copper over the years and it will rip the copper starands off. Metripack connnectors are the way to go on connections outside the car.

I think you are going to have to step up to beefier pressure plate. Doesn't matter what type of clutch material you use it's not going to cut it. Quarter Master triple plate, or mabey HKS. I don't think too many street friendly clutches are going to stand the punishment of slicks

Reduce idle timing and open throttle blade bypass screw more. This will allow you to run leaner with that same amount of fuel.

I did a grey granite counter top with almost zero grout space. The grout matches so close you can barely tell it's not solid. It cost me mabey $200 more then formica, and looks 1000 times better. Solid granite is mega bucks, and not worth it unless it is some big dream house. Take you time use a level.

Not to say that Cole's car is slow, look at the torque on that thing down low!! It should also be noted that it has a fairly wide powerband. Personally I like to use the average amount torque, throughout engines usable powerband. This will best overall power band. Or the area under the curve for calculas types. Roots blowers can be a bit of a pig at high rpms's much more rotating mass. They also have problems with puddling of fuel on top the rotors if you use a carb. They generate quite a bit of heat as well. A lyscombing supercharger (twin screw) is much more effecient. I think why NHRA still uses the old roots is to try and limits HP and top speed, safety I think.

Whether or not you need that mucho expensive brakes like stoptech or brembo should be matched to budget and intended racing purposes and class. There are diffences in the brakes as far as just diameter and the flashy colour on the caliper. For rotor, diameter, materaial, amount of venting, width, thickness of web should be considered when comparing two different kits. Caliper, dust seals, flex (very important), how well it modulates, cooling capacity, size to clear wheels, ease of maintence, reliabilty. Wilwoods are good bang for the buck upgrade. However they are race proven on dirt track cars. You have to rebuild them every year or two. The PBR is probably a better option for the street, dust seals, very low profile to clear wheels, more rigid design. They don't look as fancy, they have been race proven and vettes and mustangs. They are fairly new to North America, but are very up to date engineering wise. I think they are the best option if you can't afford stop tech or brembo, AP, alcon .... Yes Ross's kit seems expensive at first glance, but for what you get is fairly reasonable. Remeber there is more to a good brake kit than big and shiny !!

Good you clear things up like that JohnC. Spacers are perfectly fine as long as you don't go too far in or out from the factory, this can cause wheel bearing wear (most are quite durable). The reason for not using washers is the old formula Pressure=Force/Area The force is applied by tightening the wheel nuts, this is constant. If you use a tiny area like washers as opposed to full spacer the pressure applied on the washer and wheel at the washer will be sky high. The result will most likely be that the washers will dig into the aluminum and mess things up. Think of it like standing on a platform, then trying to stand on a single nail. Area distributes the load.

I can probably do both, it should be fairly easy with solid works you can do different configurations just by typing in new dimensions (that is if I set up the model correctly.) Just thought someone would get a kick out of it, to see what the program can do. Suprising someone here hasn't done a good knockoff. Myself I would want a fair bit of testing done before I got a bunch CNC'd.

I am trying out solidworks for the first time. I have drawn up a wheel for prototyping. I was wondering if somone could get out there measuring tape and list me the dimensions of the face, mainly the lip and as much info about the rungs as possible. I will post the final drawing so you can look at it.