RebekahsZ

A cool way to keep your relays and other small components neat and tidy is to organize them and mount them on a plate. All your little ugly mounting holes go thru the plate, then the plate is secured somewhere with only 2-4 holes/screws. This keeps you from drilling a million ugly holes in your beloved rust-free (haha) chassis. I wasn't smart and I have a million little holes- it works but is not gonna win me the America's Best HybridZ award. The use of bus bars and fuse blocks helps too to allow you to distribute the three forms of power that you need: ground, constant 12v and 12v that is only on when the key is in the on position. You will just distribute power as needed from these three sources-suddenly it all gets simple. You also need to google how a relay works-complicated when you've never dealt with it, but it is actually really simple.

Axles for shopping carts?

I have a 240z which has a narrower tunnel than a 280z. I hammered my tunnel before my first test fit per the instructions in the install documented in the stickies. Bashed the hello out of my tunnel. Once I had my engine and tranny in I could see that, in my case, none of it was necessary. Test fit first, mark any tight spots, then remove the engine and trans and hammer as needed. Wear ear plugs.

Looks like they were just over torqued.

Any members in CO willing to check it out?

The first whack at this I used a short bleeder that came out of the bellhousing and was secured under the car. You had to jack up the car and it was a pain to get access to. I added a speed bleeder which helped a little, but not much. When I put in a clutch kit the company rep talked to me about remote bleeders and the merits of a LONG bleeder (no jacking the car up, very easy access.). I got it from Eastcoast Performance. They are on line and respected on ls1.com.

Sounds like a sweet deal, but don't corvettes have a transaxle?

Cut out the stock z crossmember. I'm pretty sure that is all.

Just PM me when ready.

Before you do anything else, have a shot of vodka. That's what the Russians use in their radiators, then if your car breaks down you can have a party and all your friends will come over to help.

Why do I always forget the dealership!!?!!

That would be a BIG weather pack connector. I used a bunch of weather packs on various components but not for the big "spinal cord" that goes to the PCM. Love weather pack. The biggest I did was a six-pin for the DBW pedal.

Got a part number?

I agree. My studs were slightly misaligned at first, but running the tapered nuts down tight against a stock steel rim and torquing them down aligned everything fine. And I'm finding out that there is no such thing as too long (that should garner some giggles). I'm about to have to use spacers to get my brake kit to clear, and suddenly my extended studs don't seem so long. Get them as long as you can find them.

Hit post by mistake. Continuing: That means about two minutes time and all the wires are disconnected. It is a bit more cluttered than it is for the guys who put the computer inside the cab. But, my harness didn't have to be lengthened. I took my harness and computer to Lane Culvart (sub contractor for Hinson Supercars) in Huntsville to have the un-necessary wires removed from my harness and for the appropriate deletes from the programming. It was cheaper than $500-more like $250-ish.

I have a hard time removing the harness with the motor installed-lots easier when it is out and I can walk around it. For that reason, I consider the harness part of the engine, not part of the chassis. All the connections including the computer, are in the engine bay. It takes just disconnecting four electrical connections to have the motor ready to yank.

You should be fine with a 32" line, especially if you use the one with a solid 90 degree bend right off the master. I recommend the longest bleeder line you can get 48" or more so you can control where the fluid spills when you are bleeding. You will spill it, so plan ahead where you will put a catch can. Check my content and look for my bleeder that allows bleeding inside the fender, so the drops fall on the ground instead of in my freshly painted engine bay. Also, be sure to get one with a speed bleeder. I learned all this the hard way.

Do you have a link for a supplier that provides the shank (shoulder) length for their bolts? I haven't. I got my sat set from bolt depot-by trial and error (and lots of shipping charges) I found some 8mms that were perfect, but when I reordered in bulk (so I can do scheduled replacement), they had changed suppliers and while the bolts were the same diameter and length, the shoulder length had changed!

I'm out of town, but I will check the Allen socket option when I get home. In my feeble memory, I don't think there is room for a socket and a ratchet in there between either the flange/u-joint or the flange/diff. I will be using 10mm bolts since I will be using the larger flange. So far, I can only find bolts for which the shank is either too long or too short. If anybody else has a source, sound off.

I just recently did the extended stud thing. It was way easier than I expected. I know lots of guys hammer them out and use a nut to pull them into place. You gotta pull the front hubs and separate the rotor-that is a pretty easy job that I can give tips for if you've never done it. The rear stubs I had already pulled for a bearing replacement. That job is aweful the first time but after the fifth or sixth time it is a breeze. With the hubs and stubs in my hand, I then pressed out the old studs and pressed in the new ones with a Harbor Frieght press(their cheapest hydraulic press). You can do the fronts in a day-plan a weekend for the rears. If you have done a disc brake rear conversion, you may be able to just smack out the old studs with a hammer, but the backing plate may be in the way if you still have drums. Maybe a strategically placed hole could be drilled in the backing plate?? Anyway, as a newby, I thought that the splines on the studs had to fit into corresponding splines in the hub/stud. Not so! The hub and stub are just drilled without splines and the splines in the studs just kind of cut in a little bit when you press them in. So the spline count doesnt matter-just the diameter of the splined portion. Hope that gives you the confidence to jump right in.

You won't be unhappy with that.

If this is an R200, the axle stub may have pulled part way out of the differential-it is only held in by an internal snap ring. Check to see if it inserted any less than the opposite side. A few taps with a drift and a hammer should re-seat it into the diff. If this diff has u-joints, try to see if a u-joint is moving when you pull in and out. If this axle is a CV axle, it is ok to have some play in the solid shaft between the CV joints-in fact, you must have some.

Yes, that is right. I can't tell an appreciable difference between 8mm and 5/16", and 10mm and 3/8" accept price and availability. I will look at the Allen head option. I just don't know how to put a torque wrench on a Allen wrench. What I COULD use is a box-end crows foot type socket. QUESTION: are the flange junctions held together by the bolts in shear, or by the clamping force on the flanges achieved by the axial loading of the bolts? If it is the axial clamping force, then it is really only the axial strength of the fastener that matters....I'm thinking out loud, hoping for either confirmation or opposition trying to learn.

I have the GTO tranny. I think you are best off with a 2.66 and a 3.54. The power to weight is so good there is no reason to gear low. You will be out of first in the blink of an eye-second gear even faster. You do need first gear.

Just remember, it was factory sound deadening that made so many of our beloved cars rust out. If you put stuff on the floor, please park your car indoors.