RebekahsZ

DP camber plates from betamotorsports for bolt-in camber plates. Will solve your loose rear and lower car another inch. But you will need to go to 2.5" spring coilover. TTT adjustable TC rods for caster. 3.90 Subaru R180 LSD with adapters from johnc at Betamotorsport. Will fix your loose rearend.

From my limited experience, you WILL have a fuel leak somewhere. I used JTR cold air system. Had to enlarge hole in radiator support for tubing to pass thru. I retained the LS2 elbow from the donor car to make placement of my crank case vent system easy. Putting this all together consumed a full weekend. Cheap Champion 3-core radiator from eBay. Came with two fans and an aluminum shroud. (You really shouldn't need anything fancy).

This is a family reunion weekend so I've got a house ful of people here. We usually go to my mom's house in Arkansas and harvest honey from my brother's bee hive, so it is known as Bee Weekend. All the bees died mysteriously this winter (probably just froze) so we all gathered at my house for the first annual Z weekend. I tried to give joy rides last night and work on my reaction times, etc at the same time. Got four family members fown the track before I broke. Really sucked because the temp dropped and the Mosquitos stopped biting (freakin blood thirsty vampires) right after she broke. Sky was full of heat lightening-a beautiful night. My younger daughter was riding with me and said she was proud cause I only shouted two cuss words after the Big Bang. Anyway, it will be a couple days before I can get all the video and pics downloaded and linked from YouTube. I have a house full of people thru Monday. SUNNY-are the yokes on an aluminum driveshaft tube (between the u-joints) aluminum? Did you specify a u-joint to them? Hope to call them mon or tues. More likely tues.

Spent whole day working in a driving rain to get car up wicked driveway and into garage. Pulled exhaust and driveshaft on my back in a the street in front of my house. Then rolled by gravity down the street without the driveshaft slapping around in the loop and made it half way up before needing fife people to push it the rest of the way. Calling it a night, but it snapped the front yoke at the base of the splined tubular portion- splines are twisted like a barber pole. Will try to extract the tubular portion out of the tranny tomorrow-hope output shaft is ok-seal looks mint. No carnage in tranny tunnel at all-none. The safety loop did its job. Driveshaft is barely scratched. The ears on the rear yoke look to be spread a bit too so um gonna do a whole new assembly. . Looks like I need a stronger material for the yokes. U-joints are fine.

Fuel system looks great. Wish I had done dual pumps.

Yes, this it's second JCI-provided driveshaft. You know, he subs them out and I don't know that he builds around racing requirements. But, the first one may have been ok, the paint was cracked over the welds and it might have been just bad paint adhesion to some flux or something. SUNNYZ-expect a phone call after i get the car out of the rain (of course!) about how to get up with the DSS. Planning to get with them on Monday.

A little piece of black electrical tape on the face of the gauge will fix that check engine light! Haven't hooked mine up. On "the list".

Domz, you just might be my new best friend. I'm off to church to say some prayers before I try to get it up my steep driveway to start tearing down. I'm worried more about the driveway than anything else. I knew this day would come and tried to get my wife to find a driveway that was dead car compatible, but oh, well. Maybe she will help me push.

Me too. Not meaning to bust your chops-I'm guilty of same thing. Do as I say, not as I do!

Yeah! Glad you are fixed up!

Broke driveshaft when the pro-tree lights flashed yellow. 2-step on 4,000, 16 psi in tires. Previous pass I did a very self-indulgent burn out for a photograph that i hope to turn into a t-shirt for my family to wear. Haven't gotten under car yet, just pulled my sad, tired ask up on the trailer and watched some more racing before heading for home. From what I can see, I broke the front end of the driveshaft and am spilling gear oil on trailer but managed to get pulled off staging area without dripping a drop. So at least nobody was mad at me. I guess of all the options, the driveshaft is the simplest of things to fix. Will get car up on jacks tomorrow and drop exhaust to determine extent of carnage. Hope the tail housing and output shaft are ok. Hope it is just the u-joint. Pics and vids to follow. Glad I installed a driveshaft safety loop. Expensive t-shirt.

I have had a z for 21 years, paid $900 for it and got ripped off. These cars have NO value. (Ask MiKelly what his is worth). I have spent $30,000 on mine over the years and the WORTH of it hasn't gone up a nickle. Sounds like you are at least $3,000 from having something decent if you do all of it yourself. You just need to decide how much your money is worth and decide whether you want to have a car that is old, out date, smelly, broken half the time, and friggin' awesome. I love mine. It was rough when I was young and broke. A great job has made a lot of difference. But I still alternate between wanting to kiss it and wanting to set it on fire. WORTH? About the same as crack cocaine. And equally unwise. This website is kind of like my AA

Trying to design a marginal front brake system around marginal rear brakes seems kind of crazy to me. But it must be a fun mental exercise. Put a dollar figure on the time you have spent contemplating this and you could have bought a full Silvermine or AZC kit, front and back. I'm waiting to hear back from AZC about a wheel I mailed them to test fit for clearance. If it fits, I'm writing the check.

Why, oh why, isn't this stupid thread in the tool bin?

I think either: it is a coincidence and a sensor somewhere puked on you or you bumped something when you were working on the stem vent. Like maybe the crank sensor, MAF or maybe something in the crank case vent system. Or maybe something related to that front coil or fuel injector. Try to find somebody who can check your codes via your OBD-2 port. I doubt it has anything to do with the cooling system. BTW-just to be sure,since it isn't working out, go ahead and reroute the steam vent to either the top tank in the radiator or to the top radiator hose. We've all been successful with that arrangement.

Dash caps rock! Had one for 20 years and I get compliments for my un-cracked dash ALL the time. I just tell them "thanks, man!"

I'm hoping for a reaction/advice from the guys who understand the windtunnel tests done in the past. I plan to do some brake ducting to my front brakes this winter, and I'm doing my brainstorming now. I know most folks get their air from the bottom of the airdam, but the holes in my urethane airdam aren't gonna let me do something simple-I'd have to lay up glass and a bunch of painful fab that I'd like to avoid. Since I only need the ducting for track days (pretty rare for me), I was thinking of taking out my headlights and ducting from the gaping hole that I can create by modifying an extra set of gutted headlight buckets. It would take a wopping 4 screws to do the headlight bucket swap at the same time as I put my front slicks on. When I got home, I could swap back to headlights. Are the headlights a relative "high pressure" area that would be ok for that? Or would that be a waste of time/effort? Whatcha think?

How hard would it be to weld something like that directly to the tunnel walls in order to avoid ripping out those 4 little bolts? I'm sure you would want to test fit it using the bolts and do a little test driving to make sure the pinion angle was good...but once confirmed-weld that sucker in! This is coming from a guy who doesn't weld, but is happy to pay my fabrication wizard what he is worth.

A lot of my local tracks have sorry return tracks with ruts and rocks, so I put a triangular "cattle catcher" on my crossmember to avoid oilpan damage. What you are gonna need is WHEELIE BARS! I've seen some makes of car that will slap an oilpan on the gound coming down from a wheelie.

Hmmm. Gone from disgusted and getting rid of car to a discussion of custom cams and aftermarket heads. That sad spell passed quickly! Buy roses for Mrs Kelly for propping you up in you're moment of despair. I like your renewed optimism. I would put a stock, low mileage 5.3 in that sucker with only a LS1 intake as the only modification. Use a stock pull-out and enjoy it for a year before getting fancy and adding complexity. Wouldn't you rather finish mid-pack that DNF? You (we) have a disease.

Holy shits-is that India? Bangladesh? Why even have a car in a hell hole like that?

So stop posting about it already and PM rags and get on with it! Gonna have to do a face to face sometime. You owe it to him to figure out expectations. You can do a rag-tag swap for cheap and quick or you can make a show car-you need to see both ends of the spectrum then figure out what you want., probably something in the middle.

If the green car is the better car, I would work on it. Try not to invest too much money in a car that has rust. Rust never sleeps and any rust repair is temporary-it ALWAYS comes back-that's why we call it "cancer." Have fun but be realistic-these cars are basically worthless as an "investment." As soon as your costs exceed $1000, you have overspent on the entire car.

Adds up quick. I've got to get serious and reduce the weight of the driver for my car. That's the first place I need to concentrate! But think about it: cage, he has full interior, iron manifolds, lots of stainless tubing (which is really heavy), bad dog frame rails (maybe?), the turbo, a big tranny, and a big diff, cv axles, probably disc rear brakes. Fortunately, he has enough power for it not to really matter.

I just read my post-it sounds kind of sassy-not on purpose. There often, but not always, is a size cast into the side of the master cylinder. I think 7/8 is stock. 15/16 is from a zx, 1" is the new (but not really any better thing) from Wilwood. A larger cylinder takes more foot force but your foot moves less distance. If you have your system well bled, the stock size is fine.