RebekahsZ

Awesome! Take pics and tell us how it goes. I would really like to have a parking brake since the car is multisport and commuter. I'm mostly interested in how the cable is routed etc.

PS- I know a bunch of guys personally who left the MC stock with all variety of disc upgrades.

Educate me: what negative driveability effect will excessive front bias cause?

Input: for my system I have a 2-1 system to a turbo muffler in stock location with improved hangars. I chose my mufflers based on the limited space available and it is fine (not too loud) for the street. I assumed this would be fine for racing too. But, I'm finding more road courses, drag strips and autocross clubs are using sound meters T trackside. They disqualify you and send you home if you are too loud. If I could redo my exhaust I would have a v-band clamp at the end if the stinger where I could clamp on another super quiet muffler for those tracks. Maybe sling it crosswise under the bumper? With the V8 we have plenty power to weight to sacrifice power in order to gain the privilege of driving on these noise-sensitive tracks. I'm traction limited (and sound limited) but not power limited.

You know, since Michael Jackson started making music videos, you can check your nuts anywhere you want. Let us know how it turns out!

Oh-all the pad options make my head hurt!! OK, here is where I am in my planning: A fellow forum member has sent me measurements for the 12.2" 4-piston kit from AZC. I'm gonna make a mock-up plate out of an aluminum sheet to see if this kit will fit the wheels in my collection of drag, street and road race wheels. If the kit looks to fit with minor mods like wheel spacers, I'm gonna plan to order it late this summer. Im favoring this kit based on good reviews as a true bolt-on. Also, i think this kit is the same for front and rear, so I may actually get to use that prop valve I installed. I don't have the energy at this point to re-plumb, so that recirc valve system is going in the archives to be reconsidered prn. Since we have talked so much about heat, I'm also liking this kit because of rotor ventilation. Will build a ducting system for track days only that quickly attaches in place of the headlights. I have to keep perspective that this is a street, drag, autocross car that may do 2-4 road course days a year and i think the ducting will be a liability most of the time when I'm apt to turn the wheel lock to lock on a regular basis in the office parking lot. I think I can survive without a parking brake-i have lots of chalk blocks since I got my trailer but an e-brake comes in handy sitting in line at the drags or just warming the engine up before a run. Where do I send the rotors for cryo? Is this a treatment that lasts the life of the rotor or do you have it redone every so often? Assuming I follow thru with this plan: what pads do you recommend for 1) street, 2) track days?

Call them and see if they can send you one. Or PM me your address and I will see if I have an extra. But it's gonna cost you! Just kidding-it'll be free if I have one. Oh, wait!! Are you talking about the snap ring on the center bar, that you have to remove the boot to get to? Or are you talking about the snap ring on the snout of the CV stub that goes directly into the diff? I don't know if those snap rings are the same size....the one I might have is the one under the boot that holds the axle together. Send me a pic of the part of the axle you are talking about.

I am not aware of any ill effects to having excessive front bias. Excessive rear bias will spin your car. It would be nice to get as much rear brakes as possible up to the point of having too much. Hope that makes sense. Stock brakes are fine except for road racing where you tromp them every 5-10 seconds to slow the car from 100 to 30 over and over for hours on end. In that case you are trading pad area for pad pressure to stop the car and the brakes get super hot, which makes the rotor soft and wear prematurely and pads crack and break. For autocross, which lasts about one or two minutes max and drag racing where you slow the car once every 5 minutes if the track isn't busy or every hour and a half of it crowded stock is fine. Street driving you just plan around a single panic stop on the freeway, for which the stock brakes are fine. You can match your brake equipment to your actual needs. I have had my Z for 20 years and the brakes have been fine until my first road course track day. Fewer laps and longer rest breaks and I bet my stock brakes would have been fine, but we beat the old car like a red-headed stepchild and I had to replace the whole system. It cost me about $200 to replace everything (lots cheaper than an upgrade). If I were you, I would do the vented Toyota swap and keep whatcha got in back. Sorry so long-winded.

They have the sound meter on a 5' tripod anywhere between 10 and 30' from the course. They haven't worked out a standard placement but they are going to have to. They DQd a bunch of cars this month. The course was so open this time that I did most of it in 3rd so the rpms and sound were lower. Between that and the baffle I got no warnings.

The flat circling or the round one? Rockford driveline has the round one in their boot kits.

Thanks jnewby! Especially for describing your setup so well.

Autocross 6/1/13. New pads and turned rotors with insufficient bedding-in: a challenging combination-tough to stop! First time on Hoosier A6s. Camera stopped when I hit a big bump! http://youtu.be/r01FRZe4ekw

Naptown-lets switch to PM so we can avoid thread jacking mattd's thread.

When I had my car painted in 1994 for $1200, the dude estimated 3 weeks-it too 4 months with me coming by EVERYDAY to make sure he kept on it. He underestimated, so he had to take other projects around mine to keep fed. He did stick to his original price, but I paid with time delay. My paint is all cracked and chipped up now but I have NO interest in paint and body any earlier than I have to. I WANNA DRIVE!!!

Even though it bugs me, my kit has been banging for almost two years and I'm gonna keep on beating on it.

Wow-24hrs on one st of pads! Awesome.

Wow-24hrs on one st of pads! Awesome.

No dumb questions, only dumb people! And you only get smarter via questions,reading and experience. Ask away! The stock rear fenders are super narrow. A 8,5" slick is about 10" wide at its widest point and that is really the measurement you have to work around. Even maximizing offset and coilovers, that is about the most you can fit. Someday I may do flares to allow bigger tires, but not yet. My car is lowered so I am restricted to what will fit INSIDE the fender. You can go wider by jacking up the car so the tires can hang out the side but call me shallow: I hate the look. For autocross the most I can shove on is a 245/45/16 although 17s would be better. The Vettes that are winning in my region with the same motor have 345s, so I would like to run wider.

While you have the coil loose, check the gland nuts for tightness. I have had both sides loosen up. It makes a very distinct high pitch "crack."

I'm running a LS2 with a single Borla XR-1 3-inch straight thru muffler in the stock 240z location. The car isn't quite as loud as a straight pipe, but it is still pretty loud. I have started going to tracks with sound restrictions and my autocross club has added a 96db sound requirement. I got warned for sound, so I have started shifting to 3rd when I am in vicinity of the meter. But, I was at a road course last month and they had baffles that can be inserted into the tailpipe to provided that extra sound control when you need it. I have attached a photo and the site and part number for any who are interested.

2' long pipe wrench. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Johnc got his from McMaster Carr. I had been using my longest channel lock pliers. I got another 1/2 turn of tightening with the pipe wrench. How tight?-I dunno, as tight as I dared. The pipe wrench bites into the gland nut a bit.

No, an additional tube of Trans-X didn't help. I thought it did, for a whole day, but I'm back to my old clunk and shudder yesterday and today just as before. It is kind of random. To check CV axle bind, you remove your spring (or lower the seat if you have coilovers), and reassemble the suspension without the spring. Loosen the 4 bolts that attach the axle to the companion flange so you can jiggle it easily. Then, you put a jack under the control arm and jack the suspension from full droop to full compression (or as far as you can compress it), jiggling the axle all the way. If you can jiggle it in and out a little bit, then axle length isn't the problem. Make sure your diff mounts are solid, then live with it. That is what I'm doing. Once I learned, from comments on my video, that all was OK, I'm back to beating on the old girl. I just know that she kicks back every now and then. It scares me every time.

After a full track day with R6s on a track with 16 numbered corners and 40' of elevation change that completely cooked my brakes, and (9) 1-minute autocross laps with A6s on a very bumpy course, both rear gland nuts loosened and required tightening. Otherwise, all other marked fasteners have remained tight. Johnc has me hooked up with a better pipe wrench for tightening up the gland nuts - interesting that the front gland nuts haven't loosened when the same guy torqued all four on the same day.

I'm making plans for a winter brake conversion to Arizona Z-Cars 12.2 4-piston Wilwood kit. From what I can gather, some 15" wheels will fit, and some won't. I'm looking for someone who would be willing to let me send my smallest wheels to them for a test fit over their installed AZC kit so that I can know whether I need to budget for new wheels and tires too. I would be sending one of my front and one of my rear 15" Weld Draglites and a handful of spacers. I need somebody with a 4-lug kit on an S30: 240z, 260z, 280z who would be willing to confirm clearances and discuss ways to overcome any conflicts. I would box and mail my wheels to you and include a check to you to cover return postage. I would also need to know what threads you have on your wheel studs so I can send a set of correct lug nuts (Weld lugnuts are kind of weird). If multiple folks are willing, I'd probably use whoever is closest to keep shipping down. Any volunteers?

http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=NookandTranny&Product_Code=STM-EN03710&Category_Code= link for PS delete. Go on nookandtranny.com They have lots of motor swap information including a paragraph on front accy drive compatability.