Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About award280

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/03/1978

Contact Methods

  • AIM
  • MSN
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Austin TX

Recent Profile Visitors

2304 profile views
  1. That was my suspicion as well, but just wanted someone else to blame when it all goes wrong....er I mean I just wanted a second opinion. Thanks much.
  2. Alright gang. Stupid question amnesty time, but I want to be sure before I eat a cam up. I have a "C" stamped cam on a N42 head. It looks like the cam has the holes for the internal oiling. I just want to verify that I do not need to run a spray bar. From the info I can find around here, it's difficult to tell how the N42s and 260 cams were lubricated. Thanks guys.
  3. I'm sure you could find a way to bolt it on. Heck, anything can be a bolt on. Whether or not it works or not is the question. I'm going to bolt on a frozen turkey for the extra torques.
  4. I've had this happen several times. All the power for the head lights goes through the combination switch (headlight switch). As soon as you start getting any resistance in the switch, it starts to heat up. I had one actually get pretty crispy. I'm surprised I never smelled the thing starting to melt. Replace the switch, keep it nice and corrosion free, and look into using relays for your headlights.
  5. I'm wondering if something similar can't be done using Arduinos.
  6. I bet dollars to donuts that the combo switch is fried. I've been through 3 of them. Each time they would go out, no gauge or tail lights. You are pulling all the juice for the headlights through that switch. Add some relays and it will help alleviate the problem.
  7. Don't forget to get the oil pump drive spindle as well. It's different on the turbo. You can modify the NA one, but its just easier to get the correct one.
  8. A little history on the Z. My dad bought it for my mom in hopes of keeping her from buying a Mitsu 3000gt. I inherited it in 1996. In June of 2005, with 271,000 miles on the clock, I decided it was time for a refresh. A refresh turned into a rebuild, and I got bogged down by a severe case of the "while I'm at it" syndrome. After several starts and stops, a new house, and a new baby, I've put my nose to the grind stone and it is time to get the thing on the road. A few pics through out the years: The engine at tear down: The ZX in our old shop: Engine
  9. I had the same problem twice. Each time it was my combination switch. (the headlight, turn signal switch) All the power for the headlights is going through that switch and it fries easily. Check that and I'm sure that you will find a charred connector.
  10. Check out the Factory Five forums. Several of those guy are using the system in their Cobras.
  11. Yeah, I've been checking those out. Thanks guys.
  12. I just got a '03 VW GTI for my DD. I'm trying to find a nice "hybridZ"-esque forums to get info from. More "This is how you do this." and less "Yo, we be ballin' in the veedubs." If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. My searches are turning up with nothing. I guess I'm just spoiled.
  13. Check out this thread on the info for using the Z31 ECU on a L6. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250
  14. I've been trying to find a post I saw here a long time ago. Much searching, but to no avail. Anyway, what I'm looking for was a CPU that took the inputs from your switches, then output out to whatever devices they were supposed to control. You could set different parameters such as light dimming delay ect.... If anyone has any info, throw it up. Thanks
  15. Thanks guys. I've had a lot of PO issues to deal with on this truck. And no wonder I couldn't ID this carb. It's more of a hybrid than my Z is.
  • Create New...