blueovalz
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Posts posted by blueovalz
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These are the only ones I have, and think only one was from the orignal thread.
Terry
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This is in my opinion (not impartial by any means) the best collection of Z's in one place. Not only Coffey's Z, but the Z-Wolf and the BlueOvalZ are at the very end of this row. It's a once a year "garage party" in Florida. Here are a couple from last year. And then, the Primadona Z was around somewhere in that location as well.
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This is similar work to what I had done to mine prior to putting it back on the street. In race trim, with race rubber and wheels, and the LS, I'd say 2150. I've heard of lighter, but cannot fathom how being my Z's exterior was 90% fiberglass, no side windows, fiberglass door skins only, Lexan rear window, and minimal wiring and lighting. I did have large brakes which added weight. My LS2 was 345 lbs on the pallet, and just at 400 lbs fully dressed.
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I'm considering the MEFI system. I was told by a fairly knowledgeable person who travels all over the county tuning LS motors that it is a good stand-alone for my application (ITBs) because it is a true speed density ECU versus the OEM LS module.
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Thanks for the support guys, it is very heartening. Berry provided some data to create the graph and explanation shown at the link below (post #18 of the string).
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=313150
Roger's explanation of the results is one that has failed to be addressed by anybody associated with this contest, yet such a drastic increase in such a short window is extremely impractical unless manipulation was involved. Overall, I feel bad for everyone that supported and voted for any and all of the 5 candidates because the lack of any security in the poll (choice of cheapest polling product) allowed manipulation by simply removing the cookies, and then voting...click...click...click...over and over again. All that effort and no validity. We tried to prompt discussion on the Reader's Choice blog of the voting situation, but surprisingly most responses addressed personal car issues with no concern over the perceived ballot stuffing. Yes, I am a bit naive in that my expectations of our automotive brethren is fairly high (re-setting those expectations now) in that I would assume the big picture is ultimately more important than whether 'my wheels deserve to be in the poll instead of the ricer wheels' type of comments made.
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Thanks guys. Jon, you are so right. I never set out to create a car that meets other's approval; it just sort of turned out that a lot of folks like the lines and work. Anyway, everyone's support is again greatly appreciated and humbling.
Merry Christmas!
Terry
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There should be very little fore/aft movement of the differential (inertia from braking or accerlation). The differential will twist on a longitutinal axis, and/or a lateral axis as the result of torque forces though, but this does not translate into fore/aft movement.
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Everythings fine. Just want to stop building for a while and enjoy, so I'm putting my all into this one until finished.
Got the axles today, dry sump is headed this way, and both oil coolers arrived today as well. So I should be busy for a while.
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Jon,
The build is located on the same site a the "BlueOvalZ photo documentation" link in my signature.
Terry
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... so where's the update on the latest project?
Cameron
Well Cameron, since you did ask
;)Being this will probably be my last big car project, and I've always dreamed of owning a CanAm replica, I decided to just about fully scratch-build this thing. Yes, I got some parts to start it off with, but to date, this car is 95% fabricated, 5% orignal Mirage framing. Heck, I spent $300 in steel to build a table and rotisserie just to get started. 9 months later, this is where I'm at.
Yes, the tires are on backwards
Drivetrain will be an LSx coupled to a 930 transaxle
Once again, please vote for the Texaco car of the decades (see previous post). Other than the "2000s", no other import has busted 3rd place. Right now we're getting beat by a purple Pacer...yes, you read that correctly...a Pacer.
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Just as the Phoenix arose from the ashes, my old 240Z took the Cardomain “Show-off of the week†award. It’s nice to see folks still liking the old girl. I kinda feel like a proud papa again…sniff…sniff. It has been in Kit Car, Z-car magazine, and even a little blip in AutoWeek on their 50 anniversary project.
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It seems forever since I've posted anything here, but that's because of the new project I have now. I'm ATTEMPTING to build a replica (to some degree) of a McLaren M8B, based on a Manta Mirage. I thought I'd throw out a photo or two of the small amount of progress I've done.
The first one is the hermaphrodite VW front suspension that was the very first thing to go, and replaced it with (lower photos) unequal length A-arms using a C4 upright. This took 2 months to do. I can't help but feel this work will be simple compared to building the uprights/suspension for the rear.
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Well that, and also because nobody that I know of is using anything like this on a Z or ZX.
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I don't have pics, but these are "common" bearing/hub combinations for the sand rail community. I just recently purchased a microstub set that is based on the S10 bearings.
I'll be surprised if anybody else chimes in on this one.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the KYB inserts you've mentioned might be taxed pretty well just going to 200 lb/in. Unless I'm thinking of the wrong dampener, these will not sufficiently dampen the stiffer spring rates (IMHO 200 or above).
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Thanks for the instruction.
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Does anybody have the link (if it still exists) for member location? Also, is there anybody on this site that is located near Camby, OR?
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It sounds all the world like an internal leak between seals, but this would be unusual for a new MC.
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Has there been any thoughts into the elimination of the crossmember in the traditional sense? For example, if this engine were to be solidly mounted between the frame rails, could the engine mounting system itself be designed to carry the suspension points (using the block to become a part of the chassis)? Obviously if would entail some amount of engineering and a rigid means of supporting the block to prevent pitching and yaw movement through a rear plate or solid transmission mount. The steering rack mounting would be something that could be fairly easily resolved if this was done.
Required would be a component that will be bolted onto either side of the engine that would distribute the mounting fasting points over as broad an area as possible (this would allow the mounts to be rigidly fastened to the block without fear of stressing these fasteners in a cantilever mounting onto the frame rails). If this location was aligned with the Datsun OEM crossmember mounting points in the framerails, great, but I'm sure that these could be offset by some acceptable amount.
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Which would be? Pictures....lots of pictures.
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3.44 on the first run. I'll give it another shot later when I have more time.
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Sounds to me like you're good to go! If the wrong mustache bar is being used though (link was changed but the mustache bar was not), the differential will still be forward of a location that will allow the axles to be straight out the sides of the differential. This would also be indicated by a great deal of clearance between your curved link and the rear cover.
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If indeed they are stiffer AND drop the ride height, you'll see a significant difference in the un-bounded length. It should all work out once the weight is on the car and settled. You may have the spring uncompressed at full droop though.
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Why don't you just invest in a stroker kit with some nice internals. It would be cheaper and much less trouble than a turbo. If you can't beat a NA 302 with a NA 351, then no advice on this thread will help you. Pour some bad gas in the old man's tank...that will set you up fine.
LS1 ITB ?'s
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted · Edited by blueovalz
It's been years since I've posted here, but for the sake of someone else looking for a DIY project for a cheap V8 ITB set-up, check out the LS1 Tech page in which I fabricated a set-up using a highly modified aftermarket intake, some Chrysler LHS throttle bodies (Holley 48MM), and some home fabrication and welding. Using the Holly HP EFI system, the total cost of getting it up and running (mechanical and electronic) was about $2400 for everything. Again, a lot of home-made stuff, but nothing that a drill press, and common sense couldn't handle. The photos are a bit dated, but nothing has changed other than the system runs very well (took awhile for this old-school carb man to tune with a computer).
http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1269857-poor-mans-ls1-itb-fab-up.html
Also, my signature still works, so anybody interested in viewing the ITB set-up for a DIY'er, you can view the documentation photos (lower link), but look under the album called Manta ITBs instead of the Z-car albums
Terry