blueovalz

It won't matter where on the distributor cap you start at as long as the rotor is pointed toward the wire that has the piston at TDC on the compression (both valves are closed) stroke. If it is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, this may give a large pop out the carb or exhaust. Then just follow through on the firing order. Terry

I get a "this page not available" when I click on your URL.

I'm in agreement with you on the "look" that the correctly sized tires give in the Z body. IMHO get the wheels and then put some decently sized tires on them.

I haven't done this swap (zx), but I'm sure it would be similar to most of the swaps here at Hybridz. IMHO I would stick with OEM Datsun rear end, and only use the engine and transmission. I know the "bonnet" on the ZX is shorter, but this should not be any problem. With that said, use our search feature to find info for this swap to answer your more general questions. Perhaps someone with the ZX swap experience can then help here then with some more specific questions?

All right, I'm logging off BEFORE we do the group hug again (LOL). We are here to further our love of this artwork we call Z cars, whether it be through sharing tangible parts and data, or the sharing of ideas and goals and dreams, the later being the heartbeat of the former.

I made a '66 Mustang hood in '86 (one of my very first pieces I ever did) and needed to mount it to the original hinges. I took 2 pieces of 1/2" X 2" X 8" aluminum. Drilled and tapped holes for the hinge bolts to screw into, then put a large taper on all the edges (very important to do this so that the larger side of the taper is on the hood side of the blocks). I also D/A'ed the surface (except the side that bolted to the hinges) with 36 grit paper to really rough it up real good. Then bolted these blocks to the hinges and then laid about 4 layers of wet mat on top, then set the hood (clip in your case) onto the wet glass. After the glass kicked, I unbolted the hood from the hinges and had the aluminum bonded lightly to the hood (careful here because the blocks will separate at this point easily). This next step is very important. I again roughed up the area on the hood underside adjacent to the aluminum blocks. Then applied several layers of mat onto the hood (about a 1" to 2" area next to blocks) so that it covers all the tapered edges of the blocks (the more the better). When this kicks, then surface the blocks (tops of them as hood is now up-side-down) smooth so that the glass is even with the mounting surface of the blocks so that the hood mounts well. The key thing here what keeps the blocks firmly attached to the hood was glass on the tapered edges. Even if the block separates from the glass/aluminum bond, the edges will hold the block in place (because of the tapper) very strongly all around the blocks. I drove that Mustang around for 10 years and never had it separate (which surprised me to see that the blocks were not even loose inside their "wrap" after all those years of vibration and heat and I even had the springs still on the hinges). Yes, this does add some weight to the hood, but the aluminum was at least lighter than steel, and you could use smaller pieces too. Important note is to not put too much hardener in the resin on the final bonding step. This is a lot of mat thickness (about 1/2" in the immediate area of the blocks) and heat build-up may warp or distort these areas of the hood (clip)as the glass cools, so let it kick slowly). Sorry for the loooooonnnnng post.

Not to mention that this thing (Holley blue)is noisy as all get out too!!!

So you want to use the factory hood hinges as the pivot for the tilt front clip? If this is so, I would be looking carefully at what the lower front (valance) of the clip will do when the clip is lifted. I know that when I considered this on mine, the hinges had to be at the base of the core support (and forward) to allow the part to lift up and away. I have not seen any pics of this front end yet, so pardon me if I misunderstand your intent.

I welded the mount directly to the bushing bracket (being I would most likely remove this bracket anyway if I removed the differential. I bolted the mount to the diff, then welded it to the bracket just as it sat on it. No prestress this way, and no regretes.

That's what happened. They put a dual pattern on the wheels (NOT what I wanted). Anyway they remade some new ones ($425 per wheel), and I was quite impressed with the quality. The rears came in correct (1/2" offset difference from the fronts).

My deal with Billet Specialties could have been a bummer, but as it turned out, it was good. I specifically (faxed a picture of my specs) requested 4 lug wheels. I only ordered the front ones the first time. When I got them, they had 8 holes instead of only 4. Being I paid good money for these, I stood by my guns and they took them back and sent me some 4 holers. I felt they treated me real good.

http://www.billetspecialties.com/

http://www.billetspecialties.com/

It would seem that the joints would be a good start. It may also be a driveshaft joint that coincidentally may be going bad too. I also wonder if the stiffer urethane parts now on the car are making a previously existing problem more obvious, now that any vibrations are transfered more easily to the seat.

Doesn't the Lincolns come with the 4 cam versions too?

Ain't no way, unless you're wanting to hold 19" of wadded up tape measure. Or you can take a tip from the monster trucks and put the 19" tires "under" the car. Tubs??? Then you have to completely chop up the inside. Seriously though, I've put 12" tires on mine, and it's obvious that the bodywork is bloated, but with a good design you can keep the original Z look and lines, even with wide flares. My approach was to make the fenders and quarters look wider without appearing to "add" flairs. Terry

I don't know if the Chevy is the same way, but one side of the the Ford bearings is slightly camfered more than the other. If this side of the bearing is not on the radiused (outside edge) part of the crank journal, the rod will bind when tightened. It can be swapped very easily. The cornered sides face each other, and the rounded sides face away, toward the radiused journal cut.

I have not done any specific wiring on the Z other than gutting and re-wiring, but with that in mind I'll offer up an idea, and freely accept any flaming. Could you not parallel another (i.e salvage) fuse box to the source wire going the the original box (using a large gauge wire of course). then you could dedicate the new fuse box to whatever add-ons you wished to put on it. If the original feed wire to the original fuse box is restrictive in size (IMHO it is not big enough if it is 10awg or smaller) then run another parallel wire off the battery to feed the box directly (inline fuse highly recommended with this). No is the time to chime in here guys.

I weighed my aluminum headed, aluminum flywheeled, 302 with headers prior to install at 389lbs. I weighed the L24 with exhaust and flywheel at 428lbs. The aluminum heads (J302 Motorsport) weigh 45lbs for the pair, which is slightly more than one cast iron head weighs.

www.auto-jet.com sells mandrel bent tubing (aluminized) up to 5" in diameter (mostely set up for trucks and busses) but I have used their 3" stuff and it's good, plus I always got good service from them. They do not have collectors though. So then try www.burnsstainless.com for the collectors (not cheap).

Take the big leap, and attempt to make some with fiberglass. Small pieces like these will be a great learning experience. I assume you are talking vents like the old T-bird, 250GTO, Corvette, etc had?

I've had them on mine for a while too. I'll take a look-see and see what I can tell you later. But I don't remember anything abnormal about the install.

have you tried www.truechoice.com ? They do a lot of fomula stuff and I'm sure they would have some of the steering stuff there.

Jeff I've only used clay for the flange stops in the past, but if I were to start using this wax sheet you speak of, how do you attach it to the buck so that the mold material can be pushed down into the corner (point was meets buck). Thanks ahead.

Pete I had to laugh when you described your experience in this situation. I too, felt a 1" was too large for the T/O bearing. So I tried a 7/8" brake master cylinder, and about pushed it through the firewall, so that's when I tried the 3/4", and the rest is history.