blueovalz

Dang, now I feel bad. I don't have even one double flare on a single fitting on my entire car. I guess it might be my next tool investment in the double flare dies.

Just a additional note. I've noticed that tubing now days (vs long ago) split a lot easier in the flaring process. This can be eliminated by the chamfering step and by not trying to flair too much material. I also found that heating the end with a propane torch also softened the tubing enough to keep it from splitting at the flare(annealing?).

This happened several times with my '75. After I changed out the AFM, the problem went away. It was definately an electrical problem. First, I changed out the black box, still had the problem. Then put the old one back in, still no ign. Replaced the AFM, problem when away. Never nailed it down to a specific part or section of the motor, but that cured it.

The individual parts are easier to swap than the "whole" assembly if you include the struts and the lower control arms (different geometry than the Z with different mounting points).

From the limited amount of info here, I am guessing that you are using 280ZX front rotors? If so, you may want to use the early 300zx (4 lug only) rotors instead. They are larger diameter, and still work with the 280ZX calipers. About (not an exact number, but close) 1/8" radius needs to be removed from the outter circumference on the 300ZX rotors for a perfect fit using all the pad.

Specify the rotor and calipers being used please

I't a big wide motor, and heavy. But the neat thing is after you put a Hemi in your Z you could change your name from Z-Gad, to Gad-Zooks!!

The tach is a typical aftermarket one that counts pulses. No relays, in that I chose instead to use the high amp toggles I had for my coiling. Anyway, I figure the DC motors on the fans are acting like generators when they spin when no current is applied, and backing back into the ignition circuit. Forturnately, when the engine is running, everything works fine and no hick-ups with the ignitions system.

Question for any EE's out there. I finally wired up my radiator fans and found that every time I switch the fans off, the tach pegs out. I thought about using a high current diode to prevent this, but even a 70amp diode gets hot fast. Being these fans are only drawing about 20amps, this diode, I would have thought, should be able to handle 20amps DC, shouldn't it? (or are they rated at RMS and at only for 1/2 cycle???). Anyway, I'm trying to keep from ruining a good tach. Terry

This is where you will have to be real careful. I would (if possible with this thing in parts now) find out what the max and min length is with entire assembly compressed and then expanded (perhaps use the other side if it is not disassembled yet). Split the difference. Now subtract the new "required" length for the new Z entire assembly length from this avg length. This new number (differnce) is the amount to shorten the shaft itself. Just for example, let's say max and min are 13" and 14". Avg is then 13.5". The new required length is say 12". Then 13.5" - 12" is 1.5". The splined shaft itself after disassembly should be shortened 1.5". Be sure to consider the new "required" length with the suspension set at normal ride height. I believe the shaft will shorten at full droop, so with this in mind you may want to bias the length toward the longer side by putting more weight on the normal ride height length being it will be just about the max that the shafts will ever see, especially if the car has been lowered.

It's not too narrow. I've got a '92 SX, and width is not a problem. An R200 comes in it, and from what I understand from the 240SX.org site, it is the same "short" case that the 300ZX/J30/ cases have. But only the superhicas and ABS options have the VLSD, which I have not been able to find even after several years of looking. Also, it comes with a 4.10 ratio, which for me, is a little low, even with an OD. Terry

Ideally, the vacuum signal ported to the block or valve cover will draw air from another open fresh air (filtered) source located elsewhere on the block or valve cover, through the block and into the vacuum port for a continueous but small flow of air. Any blow-by would reduce the fresh air flow by replacing it with the blow-by. Surely the leak or gap at the top of the chain cover is not very big.

I've never disassembled this axle in particular, but I know that the ZX axles were peened on the end of the splines and also use the clip too, which seemed kind of redundant. The press pushed it out, but this may not be your case.

don't know, but the 240SX is another rear assembly that comes out as a complete subframed unit.

Perhaps I've missed something, but is there not any place that a vacuum signal could be ported to on the block or valve cover to act as a PCV set-up???

I tried scotch-brite to clean (polish)the contact surfaces of the two parts, then roughed the surfaces up with fine wet-dry, then tried to lube them, and nothing worked. I had to twist on the piston real hard to break it free of the cylinder. Once it popped free, I couldn't get it to stick (up until it would freeze up again in less than a week). That's when I said enough is enough, and replaced it. Terry

That part number is correct. It fit '82-'84 Maximas (I know 'cause I bought one after I found one side only in a junk yard). The 240sx (I have one of these also) has no bolt on brackets, so.... Here's the deal on the rear ZX calipers. Inside the caliper there is a tapered piston and cylinder that work together in the operation of the self-adjusting mechinism. For some reason the tapered piston gets jambed into the tapered cylinder to where it does not release and turn when you operate the e-brake, thus the brake no longer self-adjusts, and in time with pad wear, the rear brakes become almost useless unless you disassemble the caliper, free it up again, adjust it, and put it back on the car (did this many times till I finally bought a re-built caliper that worked good). It was a PITA, but still made the swap worth while, even when it was not working correctly. The other side never did give me any problems. Terry

By the way Tom, I live just a tad SW of you and go to Memphis quite often to see my boy going to school up there. Terry

What do you mean by well balanced? My 302 is externally balanced (LOL). There are a very few of us that have done this swap, and I think a different approach was taken on each one being no "kit" exists (that I know of) for this. I'm sure "we'll" be glad to answer any questions. As far as the tranny part, I am currently re-installing my T5 due to a minor problem with the hydraulic T/O bearing, and this time I will document all the parts fabricated/purchased with photos for future questions. Terry

Wow!!! Now I REALLY want to get mine repainted. Looks very nice. Terry

Well, I found my problem. The PP housing had been rubbing the SS braided lines leading from the T/O bearing to the outside of the bellhousing. It eventually wore all the way through and made a hole. I guess I need to move them further away from the rotating mass. Another unusual thing I found was the pilot bushing was out of it's hole and loose between the crank and the clutch disc. I hope it came out when I pulled the tranny. It took all of 2.5 hours to completely pull the transmission and diagnose the problem (new record for me).

I lost the clutch today on a test drive, and I need some advice about the transmission. I have a McCleod (spelling?) hydraulic throwout bearing. It appears to have failed, and symptoms are no clutch action, and brake fluid coming out of the bellhousing inspection opening at the bottom of the bellhousing (it failed suddenly with no warning of anything wrong). I want to remove the transmission from the car by removing it from the bellhousing, thus leaving the bellhousing attached to the block. It's been years since I assembled this, and on paper, I think it will work. Anybody think it won't, or have done this before?? If I remember correctly, the T/O bearing just bolted onto the front bearing cover (or did it replace the front bearing cover?). Terry

Wierdest thing I ever saw (and ran) was those cantilever style tires. Until I actually used a set, I couldn't believe how well they worked. Terry

Sounds like a front mount to me.

I've not made this particular booster swap, but the diameter of the ZX boosters I thought was too large to fit next to the clutch MC. But then again, I've never felt the need for a larger booster. I'll bet there are lots of varying opinions about the second question. My experience has been the front upgrade (I think you meant Toyota calipers instead of rotors) caused too much bias to the front, until I disc'd the rears which then required that I gut the OEM proportioning valve. Ideally, they should be done together IMHO. Terry