motoman

Check your engine temp sensor. Sounds like the ecu isn't exiting the cold start loop.

Yeah i have been working on it slowly. Just haven't been on the forums in awhile. The engine is in i just need to wire it up. Is there anyway i can look up why its 125%? I would like to know alittle more on that subject. I have a general understanding of it, but it never hurts to know more.

I am rewiring my car and am a little confused on how to properly install a fuse into a circuit. From what i have been reading is it the gauge of the wire that is limiting factor on what size fuse to use. For example, I am wiring in a walbro 255 fuel pump using a relay and 10awg wire. According to Auto performance Engineering at 50psi the pump draws 9.8 amps at 13.5v. The rail pressure for my car is 43psi so i figure 50psi should be high enough. They guys over at oznium.com say 10awg wire should not exceed 30amps. Should i run a 10 or 15amp fuse on this circuit? My guess is 15amps because motors tend to have an amp spike in them during start up yet 15amps is still under the maximum current that a 10awg wire can safely carry (30amps). Thank you for your help. Motoman

This is a really Good book on turbos. It goes through the math involved to select the right turbo for your type of use and power goals. http://www.qbookshop.com/products/144219/9780760328057/Turbocharging-Performance-Handbook.html

This is what I'm doing in terms of fuel.I have a custom made tank though. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97386-will-this-fuel-system-work/ A lot of guys are welding sumps onto their tanks. I would be very careful welding a tank though. Here's what the sump looks like. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4041/ Try using the Search function in the upper right corner. Type a keyword in and you will most likely find what you're looking for.

This has most the information you should need. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90784-wiring-guide-for-installing-a-rb20det-into-a-datsun-z/page__p__860349__hl__%2Brb20+%2Bwiring__fromsearch__1#entry860349

So does that make the Rb25=Rb26^(1/2)-1?

Well since this has to do with turbos and AFR's i figured this would be a good link. Especially for the lesser informed like me! My link

I went through on paint and took out all the wires that i shouldn't need to have in my harness. I only want this for power to the car nothing else. That means only the headlights, turn signals/hazards, brake lights, revers lights, dome light, horn, wipers, license plate lamp, and rear defogger. I am going to make my harness from scratch for all my gauges, so i took all those out. I put new Autometer gauges in that's why. If someone could take a look at this and let me know if this will work. This is for a 260z that has an Rb25det engine swapped into it. Thanks in advance. MOTOMAN

I might have to get rid of my N1 now! That does not sound good at all.

And a video?

There's three things you can do with the boost solenoid; (1)Leave it how it is and plumb the vacuum lines into it. (2) Take it out and plumb your waste gate directly to a boost source, however this will only allow the turbo to build 5psi before the waste gate opens. (3)Leave it in and wire it so it is constantly grounded. click HERE. I have read that having a constant ground on it can burn the solenoid out. The best way is to get a boost controller. If you do plan on getting a controller down the road. I would suggest just hard wiring the ground, that way you can have 7 psi under 4500rmp.

Sorry about that guys. I was looking at a magazine. Its called project car. In the magazine they left it open(also in the greddy instructions for the plumbing.. When David said that he had to connect his to a boost source i looked into it more. The valve that you are showing a picture of is know as the IAC or IAA valve. It is there to manage the idle of the engine. David i take it that when you got on the gas hard and than let off the car wanted to stall out. Other then that to car should have run find. Unless you are running an a/c or power steering. From what the FSM shows it should be plumbed in before the turbo so its not seeing and boost. But if it is working for David there shouldn't be a problem with the IAA seeing boost. Let us know if you do run into any problems with it seeing boost. Here is a good post about the IAA. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93505-air-regulator-idle-question/

#2 That pipe stays open. #9 is a boost solenoid. The stock waste gate on the turbo is set to 5 psi this is bleed boost so that the waste gate doesn't open until 7 psi.

Did the new coils help with your misfire issues?