motoman

Check your engine temp sensor. Sounds like the ecu isn't exiting the cold start loop.

Yeah i have been working on it slowly. Just haven't been on the forums in awhile. The engine is in i just need to wire it up. Is there anyway i can look up why its 125%? I would like to know alittle more on that subject. I have a general understanding of it, but it never hurts to know more.

I am rewiring my car and am a little confused on how to properly install a fuse into a circuit. From what i have been reading is it the gauge of the wire that is limiting factor on what size fuse to use. For example, I am wiring in a walbro 255 fuel pump using a relay and 10awg wire. According to Auto performance Engineering at 50psi the pump draws 9.8 amps at 13.5v. The rail pressure for my car is 43psi so i figure 50psi should be high enough. They guys over at oznium.com say 10awg wire should not exceed 30amps. Should i run a 10 or 15amp fuse on this circuit? My guess is 15amps because motors tend to have an amp spike in them during start up yet 15amps is still under the maximum current that a 10awg wire can safely carry (30amps). Thank you for your help. Motoman

This is a really Good book on turbos. It goes through the math involved to select the right turbo for your type of use and power goals. http://www.qbookshop.com/products/144219/9780760328057/Turbocharging-Performance-Handbook.html

This is what I'm doing in terms of fuel.I have a custom made tank though. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97386-will-this-fuel-system-work/ A lot of guys are welding sumps onto their tanks. I would be very careful welding a tank though. Here's what the sump looks like. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4041/ Try using the Search function in the upper right corner. Type a keyword in and you will most likely find what you're looking for.

This has most the information you should need. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90784-wiring-guide-for-installing-a-rb20det-into-a-datsun-z/page__p__860349__hl__%2Brb20+%2Bwiring__fromsearch__1#entry860349

So does that make the Rb25=Rb26^(1/2)-1?

Well since this has to do with turbos and AFR's i figured this would be a good link. Especially for the lesser informed like me! My link

I went through on paint and took out all the wires that i shouldn't need to have in my harness. I only want this for power to the car nothing else. That means only the headlights, turn signals/hazards, brake lights, revers lights, dome light, horn, wipers, license plate lamp, and rear defogger. I am going to make my harness from scratch for all my gauges, so i took all those out. I put new Autometer gauges in that's why. If someone could take a look at this and let me know if this will work. This is for a 260z that has an Rb25det engine swapped into it. Thanks in advance. MOTOMAN

I might have to get rid of my N1 now! That does not sound good at all.

And a video?

There's three things you can do with the boost solenoid; (1)Leave it how it is and plumb the vacuum lines into it. (2) Take it out and plumb your waste gate directly to a boost source, however this will only allow the turbo to build 5psi before the waste gate opens. (3)Leave it in and wire it so it is constantly grounded. click HERE. I have read that having a constant ground on it can burn the solenoid out. The best way is to get a boost controller. If you do plan on getting a controller down the road. I would suggest just hard wiring the ground, that way you can have 7 psi under 4500rmp.

Sorry about that guys. I was looking at a magazine. Its called project car. In the magazine they left it open(also in the greddy instructions for the plumbing.. When David said that he had to connect his to a boost source i looked into it more. The valve that you are showing a picture of is know as the IAC or IAA valve. It is there to manage the idle of the engine. David i take it that when you got on the gas hard and than let off the car wanted to stall out. Other then that to car should have run find. Unless you are running an a/c or power steering. From what the FSM shows it should be plumbed in before the turbo so its not seeing and boost. But if it is working for David there shouldn't be a problem with the IAA seeing boost. Let us know if you do run into any problems with it seeing boost. Here is a good post about the IAA. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93505-air-regulator-idle-question/

#2 That pipe stays open. #9 is a boost solenoid. The stock waste gate on the turbo is set to 5 psi this is bleed boost so that the waste gate doesn't open until 7 psi.

Did the new coils help with your misfire issues?

This is the schematic that I'm working off of. It show the power that goes to pin 58 is bypassing the eccs relay.

There should be a constant 12v to your ecu. For a series 2 ecu it should be pin number 58. It is a White/black wire. I'm not sure what it is for a series 1 ecu if that's what harness you have. I'm pretty sure they are the same though.

I looked in the fsm that i have downloaded. It says that when you have misfiring during idle. To Check three areas. The first being to check the ignition system by real time diagnosis. Second Check the condition of the Crank Angle sensor in real time. Thirdly to check the condition of the spark plug. I don't think there is any problem there. Under acceleration check the signal system(Ignition signal, crank angle signal,air flow meter signal) for an instantaneous break. I'm guessing the want you to see if the sensor is bad and that the signal is cutting out. Check the spark plug gap. Which you already said yours are set to .28 so they should be fine. Check for any leak from high tension cable. Check if the ignition coil power supply is lowered. Lastly it says to check if fail safe mode is not set due to a detonation sensor error. That is what the FSM said for poor idle and driveablility for ignition misfire. Do you know if your throwing any codes?

The engine mounts and transmission mounts will have to be modified. I suggest you start reading though. If you're asking a question about motor mounts you won't be ready for the issues that are going to come up later in the swap. Such as wiring the engine in. Search and you will find out a lot of information you never knew.

Glad you got to keep that car. What did you end up doing with the fuel cell? Did you use it?

Last night i got around to dropping the engine into the car. It took me a little over three hours to do it. That was the first engine i have ever put into a car. It was a great learning experience. Now i just need to get my transmission lined up so my drive shaft wont make a bunch of noise/vibration. I was thinking of putting it around two or three degrees of center. What do you guys think i should go with. I've read that three degrees is about as far as you want to go. I had heard that you can use bread to get a pilot bearing out. I'm confirming that it does work. New flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are on. Matting the trany and engine. In the bay As far back as i can get it. This could be a problem. It looks like the throttle body will hit the side. I might have to get creative with this part. How the car sits. I think the right height looks really good. Some 16 inch wheels on a low profile tire will fill out the wells pretty well. That not first on the list though. Right now i'm going to start wiring. See if i can get the engine to crank over, and maybe even idle.

Monkeyt88:Good idea welding the nut on the gland nut. I might just weld a large nut on for ease of assembly or diss assembly. The only problem i would see with keeping the nut on there. Is that it would take away from some travel on the strut. It might cause some bump steer if you have lowered the car. I'm sure you could cut the nut in half, but would it really be worth the work? Welding it on really did help with breaking the gland nut. On two of the gland nuts i had to weld it on twice, because it would break the top part of the gland nut off. The biggest problem i had with the suspension was that the front strut cartridges were seized. I still need to mount my surge tank. Its a pretty tight space to work in. I know what I'm going to do with it, now i just need to do it. Then it should be mostly down hill from there. I can't wait to here the RB!

Yes, they are the same wheels. I'm looking at some xxr 513 or 002. I'm not sure yet. Don't you have 002's?

I finally got the car back on the ground. I had to get new strut housings for the fronts. The old ones were stuck in there good. I ended up bending them try to get the cartridge out. I plan on put the engine in really soon. I will keep you guys posted. I haven't seen the car like this in over a year. Its getting closer, yet still so far away.

I got a little bit of work done on the car today. All i did was get the rear suspension back on the car. I'm still trying to get the front struts out. I think i might have to break down and take them to a shop. Every time i say I'm going to take something in i get it the next day. So hopefully that happens with these too. I'm also still working on the fuel set up. I got my surge tank and my prime pump for it. Now i just need to mount all of it. Easier said then done though. Ebay surge tank Jegs low pressure high flow pump Got my boost gauge too fuel rail adapter for AFPR tomie type s FPR fuel pump relays