twofouroh

You don't want to blow it up, I know the feeling, but being too worried to start it is pretty much the same result as blowing it up - not driving it! You're gonna have to crank it sometime, just set your fuel maps to pig rich and start it up. Leave the wideband off until you get it running somewhere close to 14.7 though, or you will ruin the sensor. Follow the MS manual, Bruce and Al know what they're talking about! I sat and stared at mine for almost a year and a half before I decided I would never find somebody to tell me the answers to everything that was worrying me, and decided to just do it, and figure it out as things went wrong. Mine was on my carb/dizzy truck and it was the dizz I hated, so I didnt have to worry about the fuel, just timing. My truck has a z24 engine, which has 2 plugs per cyl., so I ran an EDIS / MS setup to one set of plugs, and the dizz to the other. I figured if the EDIS didn't work, I could just plug the dizz back in and go, but guess what? IT WORKED! It worked instantly, it worked reliably, it worked WAY better. I never went back to the old setup but one or two times, just to remind me how much better the EDIS was, and now there's nothing left of the distributor but a plate over the hole. Long story short, get off the bench, it's not as tough as it looks! You won't get it perfect the first time, but there's plenty of people here to help, so, no worries! Also, you should PM CamH about those maps, then the site will email him to tell him you are trying to get in touch. Good luck!

Swap in the entire motor. They're both low comp, and the ZX has a better block and head casting (F54/P90).

If you have the stock electric pump in the back there are 2 filters back there - 1 before the fuel pump, and one IN the fuel pump. Also, the stock rear electric pump was not meant to pump enough gas to run on. It is there to help get the mechanical pump primed - long story short, you need another pump up by the motor if it's the stocker in the back.

Just my 2 cents, but I would never put in the effort of an entire custom bent setup on anything but stainless. I know stainless is a pain to flare, but it's forever. Wonder if there are still any hard line shops around that make a stainless hard line set for the early 74 260 . . .

Exhibit B is a FrostFighter based setup, but priced more than twice what they charge . . . . Exhibit C - The FrostFighter page, not sure if they have timers though. And NO these are not for signs or areas, they are for the entire rear window!

Second that. Try cutting a ring out of a 2 liter bottle. Cut it oversized with scissors first, then use a razor blade against something hard to get a final clean edge to the ring. Scott B Gainesville, FL '74 260Z, F54/p90a, flat tops, 6-1, 2.5, Flowmaster 40, 307 Blue(soon) '84 720 KingCab 4x4 - Next resto project

The ghetto bolt will probably hold the top of the intake tight enough for a seal if silicone is used - but it's ghetto, and it could let go at any time. A shop can definitely get it back to original, but it's going to be expensive and time consuming (head removal) Two lessons to learn from this: 1. There's nothing more expensive than a cheap easy-out. 2. There's nothing more destructive than a gorilla with a ratchet. Good Luck!

Umm, it's not benzene - - It's phosgene - The chemical weapon - - - That kills you - - NEVER use brake cleaner around flames, or to clean/prep for any kind of welding. It can KILL you. I don't even keep the stuff anymore. Anything it can do, can be done with charcoal lighter, or carb cleaner. I like my dangers up front and obvious. I don't care if they're flammable, it's an obvious, easy danger to minimise with proper handling precautions. A lethal dose of phosgene popping out from under a rust flake that had BC soaked under it, and now I'm a foot away heating it with a torch - is not. There are some good first hand testimonials about this, and burning off zinc, online that will make you think twice before using that stuff anymore.

Forget the hot-spot, just start adjusting fuel toward rich and retard spark until it quits. Here's where a wideband O2 comes in handy.

Probably not - That would be a spot for a diode or breaker or something. When Connectors go missing from fuse panels, they generally leave big melted holes to let you know!

Well if the cover is already off, check the cam time too. Turn the engine over by hand until #1 is at TDC (0 deg mark). Remember the 0 deg mark is also BDC ( #6 firing )!! If the cam lobes are pointing upwards on the #1 cyl at 0 deg, then thats TDC. Now check the timing gear. Look for a notch on the back side of the gear - not out by the teeth, but in close to the cam tower just behind the gear. The notch should be very closely lined up with an identical notch in the cam tower. As I recall it is slightly toward the passenger side of the car. That will tell you how close your cam time is. Next, how did you check spark without a timing light? Have you checked the important ignition connections, like diz to harness, harness to brain box, etc.? I dont know exactly what is there, mine is a 74 260, and I've only had it a month, but it has taught me to never trust ANY electrical connection without checking it. Are the plugs fouled? On mine the diz harness runs right past the AC belt. Any problems there? What is the recent mechanical history? In other words what have you been working on recently, or what has changed or acted up recently? Sorry to go on so much, but it's not easy troubleshooting something you're never going to see!

The little box is the power resistor for the coil. It is supposed to get pretty hot. Now if it has good cam time, good (timed) spark and fuel, it's going to run, or at least try, -period-. One of them is completely messed up if it isnt even trying. Since you have already cranked it after this started, assume the cam is OK. Does it smell like gas at the exhaust when you try it? If not, then you dont have fuel. Check the fuse and power for the injectors. Each inj should have 12V on 1 pin when switch is set to run. Check spark with a timing light. Any number of things can go wrong inside the distributor. If it's the cam, you've already torn stuff up in the engine most likely, but take the valve cover off and look for a broken cam ( only the front part of the cam turns w/ the engine cranking) or a sheared index pin If the jesus bolt on the cam is loose, the cam will BEAT on the pin until it spits it out - the whole cam wont turn then, just the gear - but the chain will still look tight.

Which way is your battery turned? If the POS is away from the engine, that's wrong, AFAIK. If your pos term touched the body, it would have done everything you said happened. Fix would be to turn it around and buy the stuff to secure the batt. Black Dragon has it all, even the top plate. Or you could just use their catalog to source junkyard parts and fab a top plate