twofouroh

Ring gears are probably the same, but the pinions definitely are not. Long nose = long pinion, short nose = short pinion.

You can use regular crimp on spade terms to connect to that.

Or just take your snap ring pliers over to your local u-pull junkyard. Nissan never reinvents the wheel, any contemporary RWD tranny should have all the same stuff yours needs. . . . . probably. That looks just like my 89 240sx shifter setup. At any rate, it's gotta be cheaper and quicker than shipping from the US

Thanks NewZed! JSM - Car is white, but it's a repaint. I don't remember if the front fenders were good, but I think they were. I'll be back out there this weekend, so if they haven't crushed it, I'll let you know.

Went out and got the tranny, and while I was under there, spun the diff over to see what it was - - - a 3.90!! Was really surprised, bought it too. It had JY paint pen on it, and a new mount. Was this the correct ratio for an 89 NA? Going back to get the front hubs too.

Just found an 89 300 that still has the 5 speed, motor, and R200 with axles, and hubs. Hoping to get a couple of quick answers so I can decide whether to play hookey from work Monday . . . 1. Will the 5 speed (FS5W71C) bolt up to my L28? Same length? Is the flywheel/clutch usable and better? I already have a 240mm turbo clutch. 2. Are the CV axles the right length, and can I use the companion flanges off the 300, or do I need it off an 83 turbo or something? 3. Can I use the front or rear hubs to do a 5 lug conversion? Thanks for any input, I will be searching in the meantime!

Early or late 260? Nissan changed connectors and wiring all the time, so your gonna have to cut stuff and splice to make it work. My early 260 harness is already cut/spliced/melted, so I don't mind cutting it up more, but if yours is in good shape I recommend not messing it up if you don't have to. Cut up the stuff thats plugging in to it

Looks nice but there's no way I'm putting Ford brakes on my Z. The parts store already thinks my car is about 8 different Nissans, we don't need a Ford in the mix. Not to mention my brother the Bronco nut finding out about it . . . . Why didn't they use a Nissan caliper I wonder? P.S.: Nice coilovers. What brand?

It's getting too much air. Either something is holding the throttle open or there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Unhook the throttle linkage at the throttle body, and see if it goes back down. If not, then back the idle screw while it's running - see if it slows down. If that doesn't bring it down, start looking for vac leaks.

Are you still making the non-speaker type as well? If so, are they $250 also?

I can't remember if the bolt head is already locked by the flange, but if it isn't, I would just jam a flat screwdriver blade in to lock it. That cuts the wrench problem by half, just be sure to put the blade in from the side so that turning the nut pulls the screwdriver in, not pushes it out. On my S13 they were 'locking head' bolts, guess I should grab some next time I'm at the U-Pull and see if they work on the S30 too.

I'm not running my IAC yet, but I will be. I want it so I don't need separate solutions for all of the various idle-up conditions. I found two that you could look at for your needs: #1 is the IAC off of a VQ35 - it's on the bottom of the throttle body, but can be removed if you fab a plate with the in and out air bungs in it. Pros, it can move a lot of air, it has a water heating passage to prevent ice-up, and it has a temp compensator(can be disabled). Cons - fabbing the new back plate with bungs. #2 is the IAC off a VQ30 or 33, can't remember which. It is bolted to the top of the intake manifold, and has a tan/brown plastic cap at one end with 3 screws with white paint across them. Pros - it is self contained and has in and out hose bungs already, it can be bolted on wherever you want to put it. Cons - it doesn't appear to move as much air as the 35 model, and it doesn' have a temp compensator or a water passage. Both are the usual Nissan 6-wire type, but just ignore the center wires to make them work like the 4 wire (MS) kind. It took me much longer to hook the wires up to the MS than it did to get them working, it's monkey simple if you follow the MS how-to directions. The only downside is that it uses 4 wires in the harness, but I didn't need them for anything else, so no problem for me. Just remember to set the pulse width even if they work first try, and to set the power mode to 'when moving only'. They are not the kind that drifts when off, and they (and the stepper chip) will get hot if they're set to 'always on'.

Tony, if you werent serious, I am also looking for a pair for parts for my flat top setup. Sorry Duce, I can't pay much for them since they don't run at all, but I would like to have a parts set for mine. You can check out my video to hear mine run, they are just fine once you get all the bugs out! They are actually the original carbs my 74 came with - PO took em off and put them in a box . . . kinda rusty and some broken parts, but they run way better than any of my round tops do.

Well, obviously it's a 2.8, which is ~7% bigger than a 2.6, so about 7% HP gain is my guess. It should be about the same as the f54/p90 on it now, everything else being equal.

Woops, they are only $28 from prothane direct . . http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=141602

- There's another possibility - The old bulb sockets were known for having weak contact plates that can be twisted inside the socket as they get older - one of your sockets may have twisted, and the brake light lead has shorted to the ground, or the parking lights circuit. Either would overload the circuit and blow the fuse. Unplug each tail harness from the body harness and check each side for a short to ground in the tail harness. Find which side it is, then figure out which socket it is, and replace it.

You would probably have to find something that came with 12 or 13 inch rims to find a ratio that high. Good luck!

And that ebay set looks just like my BD set, but $61 is rape. BD only wants $39 plus shipping: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=41

I've got a Prothane kit from Black Dragon, they look to be good quality, and they're available separately, but they will transmit more noise than stock. Black Dragon also has a lot of the stock suspension parts for these cars, they are slightly pricey though.

I've seen those gold ones with the stamped sheetmetal head, but never a new original one. Let me look around some more . . .

Your mileage won't like a 4.11 rear end nearly as much as a 3.7, either.

I'm running flat tops on my '74 also, and they're really better carbs IMO, as long as you unhook all the smog crap on the manifold. I think you need to check and make sure the carb pistons aren't stuck in their bores, and that the damper pistons have the correct amount of red ATF in them, though. Either could cause the good idle, no WOT problem you're having. If they are stuck, you can take the tops off and clean them with the carbs still on the car. Be VERY careful with the needles! If you so much as bend them, they are ruined! Don't sand or shine the needles up either, you'll make them run rich. Take off as little metal as possible while freeing the pistons up. If they don't show any signs of recent maintenance, you should probably do a rebuild kit on them. Autozone has kits. There is no sock in the tank, the pickup is just a pipe, as I recall. Also remember that there is a filter inside the factory electric pump as well as the one before it, and it has probably never been replaced. NAPA is the only place I found the external filter with the correct case size - AZ, Advance, and CarQuest all tried to sell me one that was too big to fit in the clip that holds it to the bracket. As long as you're unhooking all the fuel hoses under there, you might as well put back new hose, it's plenty cheap, and 6 feet should do it. Your gas tank leak is probably a broken off vent hose fitting on the tank. It has several (3?) vent hoses, the fittings are just soldered on to the tank, and people will crack the solder yanking on the tank before they figure out there's still a hose attached. Look for a hose coming out just above the seam, on the driver's side, towards the back. I had to pull my tank, and resolder that hose fitting - thanks PO! It's the only hose low enogh to empty half the tank, unless it's the filler hose on the other side. Good luck finding another one if your filler hose is cracked. Anyway, good luck with it!

I just want to know if, and where, there is a rebuild kit for the stock carb fuel pump thats bolted on to the engine. Mine just went out, and I really hate that thunka thunka sounding electric kind. Thanks!

Why not try trueing the wheel? I bought a cheap wheel off ebay that was pretty ugly to start, but I just mounted it up anyway, and spun the balancer with a file against it to clean it up. Any machine shop could just chuck the whole balancer up in a lathe and turn a new (perfect) circle onto it pretty easily . . .

Thanks! These hands-on troubleshooting testimonials are great. My truck is running MSII/3.0/EDIS4 - spark only while I fab a port injection manifold for my engine, since it never came with port injection ('84 720 with a z24). The spark side went about 10 times easier than I thought, I sure hope the fuel does too, because it looks pretty tricky so far . . .