Moltar

Did you run the engine with the loose socket in the engine? Also what size socket? You might be lucky and be able to fish it out with a magnet through the spark plug hole.

It is a 390 Holly, not a 395 - my mistake. I'm tuning it with just a vacuum gauge and plug reading. At this point I'm just trying to get it to idle without sporadic surging (no vacuum leak) - just poor A/F mixture in a single plane manifold which is causing this. One step at a time indeed. Car's been grounded for 2 weeks now, but I'm learning what is working and what isn't. ozconnection - how is your low end power with such a large carb on your car? Do you have vacuum secondaries? I've heard vacuum secondaries give you a little BS room in terms of matching engine CFM to carb CFM. Thanks again all, for the information. I'll just keep playing with it.

I bought a second hand new Holley 395 cfm carb for my 240z. It is a 4150 model with the secondary metering block. My question is what jets are you running on your 240/260/280z with success? I currently have 50's in front and 52's in rear (that is what it came with - not sure if they are the stock sizes though). Also, for you Holley guys - should my secondary metering block have idle mixture screws? The primary block does, but the secondary block doesn't have them. I don't know if this was a 4160 model converted to a 4150, or if it originally was a 4160 (although Holley doesn't list a 4150 395 cfm carb currently). Any help would be appreciated. ~Thanks

Alright, thank you. The way I see it is there were 3 different seat belts for the 240z. These, the early 71 belts and the retractable. Remember how much you sold them for?

Alright, I got these in a box of parts, and from everyone I've talked (people with early '71 cars with series 1 interiors like myself), have never seen this type of seat belts. According to their tag they were made for the 240Z, and were manufactured 10/70. Any thoughts/confirmations that these are indeed Series 1 seat belts? Worth? ~Thanks

Alright, vehicle is a 1971 240z. Original engine and still equipped with SUs. I dropped in the zx distributor with the E12-80 module and I'm getting a few interesting problems: 1)Idle drops 200-300 rpm's after several minutes (no vacuum leak on the engine/intake). 2)I am unable to adjust the timing - when I move the distributor around I may be able to get 5 or 6 degrees change total (this is with the collar unscrewed to the distributor as well as to the engine mount). It just wants to keep the idle at what it wants. Anyone else have these problems? I know it is only with the zx distributor as I just put back on a 240 distributor and now all my problems are gone (aside from being reliant on points again). Is the E12-92 module any better? I have one of those as well, and tempted to try it out (although Z-Garage says it retards his timing). So if bring this conundrum to you HybridZ - let me know your experiences with it in swapping in a zx distributor onto an early carb'ed Z.

I definitely lucked out on this one. Only about 8 inches of wire was lost (3 of which welded the coil of wires into one solid wire). Cut, soldered, fixed. Glad I lucked out.

So while reassembling my early 71 car, I accidentally shorted out the cig lighter. The black wire coming out the back is toast - completely fried. Now according to my FSM the black only serves as a ground - but does it serve as a common ground - ie connected to anything else? I wonder this because the wire runs up the harness deep into the dash. Also, why did Nissan run a ground wire up the harness? Shouldn't it be self grounding? This is why I'm afraid it might be a common ground - but the FSM is no help here. Any help is greatly appreciated. ~Thanks

PO was kind enough to leave the clutch pedal in so if I do decide to go back to a manual, I don't have to go searching for the clutch pedal assembly. Although whenever I take someone out for the first time in it, I do like to pump the non-connected clutch pedal and start screaming about how the breaks are out.

Alright, looks like I'm going to build the 700r4 then. Current plans: Corvette Govenor Ratchet Shifter And if I'm not satisfied with the govenor, then I'll go with a shift kit. Wiring on the blue Z is a mess. Wound up pulling the dash and correctly fixing a half dozen poorly done wiring tie ins and broken connections. I'll post horror shots when I get a chance. Thanks for the info Dan.

Headers are going on definately. Haven't really began to do the research yet on what tranny I want to put in yet. I do know this: I want it to be as long as the existing tranny so I don't need to do another driveline. I want a 5 speed. That's really about it. ~Thanks

Saw it on Craigslist here in Sacramento for a good price. Paid $3800 for it, and it came with 12 boxes of spare parts (about $1000 total in parts). It is a '73 240z with a 350 sbc, and an auto tranny (really slow because of the tranny). Current plan is to swap back in a 5 speed (since you can't have a sports car with an automatic trany). It is the "nice" looking blue one - with a cheap paint job, mine is the yellow/black one with the REALLY cheap paint job (gotta love PO rattle can jobs). Current plan is to take all the best parts and build one really up, and sell the other (we'll see who is better after the 5 speed swap). Anyone in the Sacramento who wants Z parts - shoot me a PM with requests (I've inventoried 4 boxes so far, and I have almost every part you could wish for (series 1 seatbelts, lots of rare/awesome parts). Or if you have a T5/other chevy 5 speed you want to trade for a Chevy auto with 7k on it (plus two ford C6 trannys) hit me up. ~Enjoy

Here is the most complete write up I've found so far: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Depending on what was done to the original wiring harness ultimately dictates what changes you will need to make in accordance with the above write up. This write up is for a 280Z, but if you no longer have a computer in your car, then you will need to reconfigure how you will be sending the signal to the tach. Play around with it, and you'll figure it out.

1)Voltage Regulator 6)Ballast Resistor Both of which can be eliminated respectively with the common alternator swap with internal voltage regulator, and 280zx electronic distributor swap. What is with the weld patch over the torsion bar on the passenger side?

Sold. Coincidentally enough to a buddy of mine. He gave me a call yesterday saying he picked it up, and was getting it to turn over.

Sunrise Pick-n-Pull update: They got in a gold 280zx - everything is there minus the distributor (79k on the engine - maybe 179k) They also have an early 80'z 510 in. They got rid of the 260z though.

Well a broken ballast resistor would be the perfect excuse to do the zx electrical distributor swap.

Sunrise Pick-n-Pull has: A 260z that has some goods left to it - rear diff, engine, tranny, limited interior, complete AC. A trashed 240z with AC, engine, auto tranny, and a random Z head in the rear hatch. A couple zx's with no engines, but the rest I believe is there. Just passing along some friendly info.

What type rims are those? I have those on my Z, and have no idea what they are...

I effed mine up when I took it off. There is a 240z at Pick-n-Pull on Sunrise that had a good ballast resistor. Towards the back of the lot, last row before the huge walkway.

Ballast Resistor. You looking to buy a fuel pump? I might be selling one here - let me get my car running before I go selling parts of it off. It is too damn noisy for my taste. I'm in Fair Oaks too so not too far away.

Rattle can paint job? God it's scary, yours looks almost exactly like mine. As it sat a couple months ago, now it is in about a hundred little bitty pieces of Japanese steel. Mine is a rattle can job where the black is, now you see why I ask. (Don't tell the girlfriend I posted this picture - she hates it, she looks like a chubby asian).

You have a Carter AFB carburetor. Same thing as an Edelbrock really.

There was a 260Z at Pick-n-Pull here in Sac, last week. Looked like I was the 2nd person to it (and first person who actually wanted parts from it). Had less rust on it than 95% of the Z's on the road. I didn't say anything on here until now, I wanted to ensure I got all the parts off of it that I needed - that's right, I don't want to share on the rare Z parts for cheap. I found a brand new (had the Nissan parts sticker on it still) differential mount for it. I guess the guy got in a crash shortly after buying it - just for me to pocket. That was a $70 part for free (put it with the mustache bar I bought - so it wasn't stealing).

Ah, you have summed up exactly what I've been trouble shooting for the past week. The 600 cfm is too big for the little L24. The electric pump is far too noisy, not to mention dangerous now that you bring up the crash safety notion, I failed to think (who ever thinks they will get in a wreck?). Thank you for the insight on that one. I'm planning on switching back to the SU setup, just because it responded a lot better than a 600 edelbrock (duh...). ~Thanks again, you confirmed what I've been pondering.