wheelman

Mizugori, Another reason to consider a pre-zx Z is that the engine bay on the 280ZX is 3 inches shorter than an S30 chassis Z (240/260/280). As far as I know nobody has done an SBF swap into a 280ZX yet. Any kit that is created for the S30 chassis will not necessarily work in a 280ZX (S130 chassis). Anything is possible with enough time and money but you'll pretty much be on your own if you swap an SBF into the ZX. I'd be interested in an SBF swap kit as well. It will be a while before I do an SBF swap but I'd like to do one sometime in the future. Wheelman

MikeJTR, I guess I have a semi-related question which will give you the opportunity for more free advertising. In another thread you mentioned a project to produce an alternator only mount for LT1 engines that uses the stock aluminum bracket and a plate with some idler pulleys. I'm at a point in my swap where I'm in need of a solution for this very problem and would like to get some timing info on this product. Based on your answer to the other question in this thread I'm guessing no pricing is available yet but can you give us a projected availablility date? I do have other things I can be working on but I really want to get the engine totally squared away before installing it. Wheelman

Sulla, Sounds a little like you've been nominated to be the project lead on this. I would be very willing to help except that I scrapped my plans to do the SBF swap when I found a LT1 for a very good price. I suggest contacting alsil and blue oval Z to start with and see if they have any journals or notebooks on all the work and research they did. Here is a list of the itesm that are the "issues" with the SBF swap that have been solved at one point or another. 1. Motor mounts: Alsil's mount, solid mount using plates, set back adapters similar to JTR 2. Steering shaft to header clearance: U-Jointed steering shaft, convert to Ford power steering, mount engine higher 3. Clutch slave cylinder: Hydraulic throwout bearing, pull type slave conversion 4. Drive Shaft: Use the adapter supplied by JTR to have a drive shaft built. 5. Cooling System: Use JTR radiator mounts with any appropriately sized radiator possibly even the one JTR sells. 6. Ford EFI wiring info is availble on the net, unfortunately I didn't get this far in my research so I have no info. 7. AC: I wasn't going to use it so again no info. I know that Alsil's site http://zcar.netdojo.com/main.htm has tons of info and so does Terry Oxendale's (blueovalz) site also has tons of info and lots of pictures. Wish I could be more help, if I do another Z it's going to get a 302 I'm very interested in this idea. Wheelman

I think your plan sounds good. The only thing I would add is to find out how to pre-lube with a drill (remove distributor, insert pre-lube tool, run drill for a few minutes, insert distributor). I personally wouldn't use WD40 but thats just me. Wheelman

The R200 came in the 280 and some later ZX models not the 260. Swapping an R200 to a 240 is a very simple process and provides the opportunity to upgrade the half-shafts and replace all the bushings. As for the fuel tank a 75 or 76 EFI tank will swap to a 240 or 260. It's also possible to add a sump to the stock tank or use a fuel cell so the tank is not a big issue. The biggest difference between the 240 and the later cars is more structural rigidity. The late 260 and 280 came with frame rails that extend all the way back and are built with thicker steel. Which means they weigh more. It's also possible to easily reinforce the 240 structurally so it is much stronger than stock. Edit: Other than the Items already mentioned there is really no difference between the 240/260 or 280. The motor and tranny mounts are virtually identical and the other differences do not affect the engine swap in any meaningful way. Edit #2: Forgot to mention that 280s with an automatic tranny do not have an R200. I almost bought a diff from a JY 280 that had an auto but upon closer inspection found it was an R180. Wheelman

It reminds me of an MGBGT. Wheelman

Mike, You have a PM. Wheelman

Jonzer12, You are probably thinking of this site. http://zcar.netdojo.com/main.htm The guy's name is Al Silveria and his alias here is alsil. He and a friend sell a crossmember mount for the SBF that works very well. It goes for $125.00 including shipping I think. It places the enigne a little high in the bay to use the stock Ford EFI but that can be adjusted or just switch to an aftermarket setup or carb. I believe he used a dual sump pan from a late model Mustang. Ford trucks do not have dual or rear sump pans. I was going to go the Ford route myself but ran across a great deal on a Caprice Cop car with an LT1 in it and decided to do that. There are times now when I wish I had stuck with my original plan. Putting together an accessory bracket system to run the alternator is turning out to be a pain in the neck. That is the last problem I need to solve before I can start final assembly. If I do another Z it will definitely get a 302!!! I guess I could sell the parts I've collected for the LT1 swap and still do a 302. Anyone interested??? I Can believe I'm even contemplating it!!! Good luck with your swap and keep us updated on your progress. Wheelman

Does anyone have experience with aftermarket harmonic balancers for the LT1? I'm concidering using the Street and Performance alternator only setup which requires a Corvette balancer and hub. My engine is from a Caprice so I will have to convert to the smaller balancer and have a hard time forking over $200.00+ for a stock balancer and hub. I've found several for sale new on ebay that are much cheaper but am concerned about the quality. What should I look for and are there any particular companies to avoid aside from negative feedback on ebay? BTW: Has anyone else used the Street and Performance setup? Thanks Wheelman

jbc3, Good catch, I meant to say without removing a chip. There is no chip to remove in the 1994 and later systems but 1996 they went to OBDII. Sorry for the confusion. Wheelman

I was just asking a local club official this question last night. I hope to have my car ready to Auto-X this coming summer. He said I will be in either the SM2 (Street Modified 2) or E-Prepared class. He made a statement in one of the emails we traded that I can add whatever chassis reinforcements or roll bars/cages I want I just can't remove interior parts in an effort to reduce weight. It also seems that I'm free to do any suspension mods and run whatever tires I want as well although I have to think that after certain mods I'll definitely be placed in the E-Prepared class. This is local club racing though and SOLO2 (Auto-X) rather than wheel to wheel so these statements probably don't apply to GT2. BTW: Not to hijack the thread but has anybody used MSA's Street Camber Kit? I did a search and found 1 reference to it but not much about how it performed. Wheelman

gexgexgexgex, I'm doing this exact install. I have an LT1 from a 1995 Carpice cop car which I'm hooking to a world class GM T-5 transmission. All 91 - 97 LT1s had at least 10:1 compression and some had 10.5:1 but supercharging or turboing is possible it just takes a llittle more work and research. As for the stock exhaust manifolds, no they won't fit, but standard block hugger headers or the exhaust manifolds mentioned in the JTR manual will. You need to be aware that the aluminum head versions (Camaro/Firebird, Corvette) had angled plug heads so you might have clearance problems with those. 1995 is the year to get because the computer is still OBD1 and can be programmed with removing a chip. They also have a reconfigured opti-spark that eliminates moisture problems. Go to LS1TECH.COM or LT1TECH.COM to get more information about the LT1 engine. Wheelman

What ssflyer said!!! Sounds to me like you're situation is just like mine was except my frame rails are fine. I did notice that once I had the patch welded in the car jacked up more evenly than it had before. I would use metal to patch the hole not fiberglass. Wheelman

I've got a Russian SKS and have noticed the accuracy problems as well. When it heats up it shoots high just like the one mentioned earlier. I'd get the Enfield if you are after an accurate weapon and an SKS if you just want to throw some lead. I'd also seriously think about re-barreling it to .308. Much better availablility of good ammunition, that is unless you load your own. I've also been very impressed with the Mausers I've shot. A friend of mine bought a couple Brazilian 8mm Mausers that looked pretty rough but were very very accurate. I like the smooth feel of the action and the way the safety locks the hammer rather than the trigger. Wheelman

Magnum, Yes. Wheelman

What are you clearancing it for? T5 - None needed, although you'll need to cut the tranny ears off depending on your car's stock mounting scheme. 700r4, 4L60E and T56 - Cut tranny mount ears off, do a test fit, beat the points that touch until nothing touches. Other trannies - ?, same basic procedure as listed above. It's really a trial and error procedure and if you use the JTR crossmember you may need to do some clearancing for it. Wheelman

You have to do a little "clearancing" in the tranny tunnel with a hammer but other than that and mounting an aftermarket auto shifter thats about all there is to it. Edit: I agree with JKDGabe, get the JTR manual as soon as possible, read it several times and start to look for good deals on parts. I decided to do the 5-speed after reading it and then found out it's hard to locate a GM WC T5. Took me 3 months to find one I was willing to pay the price for. Found it on eBay, turned out the guy I got it from didn't know it was a WC unit or he would have asked more money for it. I got it for $175.00 plus shipping, it pays to shop around and watch for good deals. Wheelman

Welcome to HybridZ. The swap is not difficult, but depending on the slave cylinder you use a new master will also be required. Obviously you'll need to put together a flywheel/clutch package so count on spending money on those items as well. Make sure to get a World Class T5 as they are the strongest GM T5. I believe they are found in the 1986 through 1991 F-Body GM cars (Camaro and Firebird/TA). Do you have the JTR (jags that run) Datsun V8 swap manual? If not be sure to get it before finalizing your plans. It will be the best $30.00 you spend. Here is a link to their website. http://www.jagsthatrun.com Wheelman

How large is the rust spot? Post some pics so we can get an idea and make suggestions. My car was rusted through in that spot so I got a chunk from a 260 in a local JY to replace it. Turned out very nice but was alot of work. I ended up cutting out the entire battery tray area, part of the firewall and the passenger footwell to get rid of all the rust. Learned to weld with a MIG/wirefeed to do the project. If I were you I'd locate all the rust you can find, cut it out and weld in new steel. I removed most of the undercoating on the bottom as well as the floor in the cabin and also found rust in the seam where the floor and firewall meet in the driver footwell. If you're going to all the work it sounds like you're doing might as well get all the rust the first time. Wheelman

I'm going to be using a stock slave cylinder and aluminum bellhousing with a 3/4" willwood master. Haven't got it installed yet so can't say how well it will work. Wheelman

I think the center section of your clutch disk is starting to fail. If it were the throw-out bearing, pressure plate, flywheel or pilot bearing it would vary with revs. The clutch disk will rub on the flywheel even when the pressure is released and I think part of the center hub is vibrating because of this. Could be a damper spring has come loose. Wheelman

I have a WC T5 from an 89 Trans-AM. It has a vent on the top of the main gear section with a short piece of tubing attached. The tubing runs toward the engine compartment and I'm assuming it hooks to the intake to vent gases from the tranny. Is this a valid assumption? If not where does it attach? If I'm correct would it be better to attach it to the intake after the throttle body or before? BTW: The T5 is mated to an LT1 with the stock EFI system. Wheelman

The handling of the 4-link isn't the greatest either. They have a tendancy to bind-up when the body roll reaches a certain point. Look up some sites that talk about improving the handling of the fox body mustangs. They recomend eliminating the upper control arms and installing a panhard rod or a watts-link setup. Seems to me that while your making the change from the leaf springs you might as well get the best setup you can and the 4-link isn't it. Heres a very good site that talks specifically about the Mustang 4-link but they are all basically the same. http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm#Rear Wheelman[/url]

Mike, Man I can relate about the not being able to get her out of your system and what Mikelly said about the 10 years minimum is true as well. I still think about a girl I dated when I was 14 and 15 years old and I just turned 40. Maybe that sounds weird but she was my first "true love" and she broke my heart. It's an illustration of the power of emotions. My favorite saying regarding emotions is that they are of the devil. I need to explain that to mean that if you run your life based on emotions you will always be dealing with chaos and illogic. It sounds to me like you have an attachment to this girl which isn't a bad thing in itself but you gotta weigh all the factors before you decide on your course of action. How much emotional upheaval are you willing to deal with for the rest of your life? Will she ever get past the damage caused by her father and what was up with that accusation of rape? These are real issues that she will have to deal with but so will you if you decide to join up with her. This may sound cold but be very critical and non-emotional when you analyze this and then make a rational decision to either proceed or turn away. If you just blunder on you'll always second guess whether it was the right thing to do. Also just because you decide not to persue a serious relationship it doesn't follow that you have to totally blow her off, you can still be friends and you can provide support for her. As for playing the field. IF you decide to follow this life style be very very careful with your DNA. The last thing you want is a child from a fling and you also don't want to be the recipient of one of those gifts that keep on giving if you know what I mean. One last word, based on my past experiences and the wisdom of 40 years I'd avoid the serious relationship and be a friend if possible. If she can't hang with that then run little man, run!!! Wheelman

Pull a valve cover and look at the rockers, do they have lash adjustment screws? If not then you have hydraulic lifters. Wheelman