wheelman

JBC3, Thats the way the LT1 cooling system is designed. It does flow from the bottom of the radiator to the top, it's supposed to help purge any air in the system. Don't hook it up backwards or you 'll have a hell of a time getting all the air out. Bartman, I guess I just went a little overboard with my fuel lines. The reason I did mine the way I did was because I'd read several threads where people reported problems with the stock lines or potential problems anyway and I wanted to avoid them from the start. Especially because redoing the fuel lines means pulling the engine and tranny back out. I don't think all the threads were LT1 specific or on this site but I ran across a few of them and all the them talked about fuel tank baffling as well. Using an LS1 tank with it's pump and new fuel lines would solve any problems you might run into. I've seen at least 1 thread on here where a tank from an LS1 powered Camaro was used, I think it was a 2001 model. Wheelman

Bartman, I noticed that you appear to have used the stock Datsun fuel feed and return lines, is this true? Have you noticed whether the return will flow enough fuel to prevent a build up of pressure? I ran all new 3/8" line for my feed and return, added a sump to my fuel tank and used the original pickup in the tank as the return so I would make sure the flow was enough for WOT operations. I'm also using the Waldro 255lph (I believe) high pressure pump. Have you tested yours at high RPM yet? Have you modified or replaced the tank and if so what did you do? What fuel pump are you running? I know Tim installed a fuel cell and surge tank but don't remember seeing anything about the fuel line setup he had, do you know what his setup was? Wheelman

!M! That was it. The picture of the relay you linked to! I pulled that relay from my firewall about 1 1/2 years ago when I cut out all the rust around my battery box and threw it in the car for "safe" keeping. I'm still not 100% sure what the circuit is but it is hooked back up, at least the relay is. After I receive the FSM from 305240 I'll figure out what the black/yellow wire is and get it hooked back up if I need it. Unfortunately these wiring issues have delayed me just enough that I'll have to wait until I get back from a business trip to Finland to try and fire her up. I have the engine back in and almost all the wiring connected now so I'm getting close. :) :) I'm going to test the fuel system this week by hooking a battery directly to the pump. I really hope there are no leaks as I might have to pull the engine/tranny back out depending on where they are. Thanks again Matt, that picture really helped answer my question. Wheelman

Matt, I looked at that site before doing the CV conversion on my 240. The difference being only in the splined section is what caused me to decide to skip the 280Z stub axle swap. My thinking being that the weak points are not the splined sections but the transition from splined to non-splined which is the same on both the 240 and 280 stubs. Now I'm no expert so don't use my logic in making decisions for yourself. The guys who've been racing Z's for years say the 280 stubs are stronger and they have much more experience than I do so I believe what they say but I question if they are that much stronger to make it worth the extra money an hassle to swap them. Wheelman

Cozy, As far as I can tell it wasn't. I noticed that myself when trying to determine what the connector was for and comparing the wire colors to the Haynes manual. Of course the Haynes manual combines the auto and manual wiring harness and notes that some are auto only. I'm going to finish integrating the other parts of the harness today and worry about that plug later. Wish me luck. Edit: One thing I failed to mention is that when I bought the car it had the dealer installed AC which I have since removed. Maybe this plug is for the compressor clutch on that. The compressor was already gone when I bought the car. BTW: If anyone is interested in buying the parts I have for that AC let me know. Wheelman

I agree, those M3s are very valuable and a little time and elbow grease could net you a very good profit which could then be used to finish one of your Zs. Finish the HULK man, it's almost lengendary on this site just because of all you've been through to get to the point it's at. We all want to see some clips of it running. BTW: I'll take that M3 or the 318 off your hands if you decide to sell one of them. Wheelman

!M! Mine was built on 7/73. The wiring has all the tape stripped off and the part that normally passes through the firewall into the passenger foot well has been pulled through into the engine bay. In fact at one point the entire engine bay harness was totally removed, so our harnesses may have been much more similar in the past. Some of the connectors that are visible in the pictures are part of the LT1 harness. The connectors you're refering to that are different. Are they the ones in the passenger foot well? If so what do yours look like? Does your harness have the same 4 gang plug just inside the engine bay on the passenger side? If so what is connected to it? What about a ground wire on the driver's side that Ys and connects to 2 different places? Wheelman

Tim, The plug is part of the original 240Z wiring harness not the LT1. Sorry for the confusion. I have identified and/or re-wired all the connectors on the LT1 harness it's the datsun harness I'm having problems with. 305240: I replied to your PM. Thanks the info in the 4 gang plug. It actually looks worse than it really is, most of the Datsun harness is in good shape and identified. Just that one plug and ground wire I can't identify. As a last resort I'll just hook it all back up and see waht doesn't work. Wheelman

Tim, Here are the pictures. 4 pin plug picture #1 Here is another view of the plug. Here is the large white plug that the ground wire I mentioned connects to. Here is that wire. It's just hanging out of the front of the car here but I know it goes to driver's side of the engine bay but I don't know what it used to connect to. It's the one that Ys. The one from my car is very beat up and is missing several inches of insulation which obviously didn't cause a problem as it's a ground wire anyway. When I bought the car it was in a partial state of engine removal so some of the wiring harness had already been disconnected. I labeled what I could and pulled the whole thing from the car, now I'm dealing with trying identify those circuits I didn't before. Lesson learned: spend the time to identify all wiring BEFORE removing it. Thanks for being willing to even look some of this up for me, even if you aren't able to help me out. Wheelman

Fredtam, Who "pays" the "interest" on those special treasury bonds? The Treasury!!! Who does it pay the interest to? The Treasury!!! See the problem?? There is no interest earned because the money is not invested in anything. Those "bonds" are just an IOU that holds the value of the money borrowed from one account and placed in another. They are just an accounting trick to make it look like the money is still in the SS account, but it has been transferred to other accounts and spent, it's gone!!! The bonds are advertised to pay interest but all the money comes from the same place so how can there be any additional to pay from one account to another. It's like saying you are borrowing cookies from one of "your" jars to put in another of "your" jars and the second jar will return more cookies than it borrowed at a later time but neither jar has any way of producing more cookies. Wheelman

I can't believe I read this entire thread!! I must be a masochist.. JK It has been very interesting and I want to respond to a couple things. 1. The government is banned from investing directly in the stock or bond markets and for a very good reason. Can you imagine the kind of influence the government could have on the direction the market takes or a single stock. Suppose a corrupt politician (not that there are any of those) wants to "help" a friend, what better way than to sell or buy a large chunk of stock in a given company, but be sure to let the friend know ahead of time. Or the government wants a contract from a company and uses large purchases of that company's stock as pressure or a reward. All kinds of implications here. 2. I think it was Jon who said Caveat Emptor in a earlier post about how government purchasing agents should be more savvy in their negotiations. This makes the government the buyer, but I say the government is also the seller with us as the customers and this is the crux of the problem. We have been sold several "bills of goods" by politicians over the years and now we're realizing we didn't get such a good deal. This will sound uncaring but I put the responsibility for retirement planning squarely on each and every individual in this country. We all have and have had for many decades the ability to educate ourselves regarding financial issues and it's no-ones fault but their own that they didn't take advantage of it. Every thinking person has the obligation to ask themselves if what their being told makes sense and many generations of our parents didn't do that. They blindly followed the "intelligent" representatives over the cliff. 3. To assume that the government always has our best interests in mind when it passes laws and writes regulations is very niave and short-sighted. Most politicians and beaurocrats are primarily interested in what benefits them the most when laws are passed and regulations are written, it's human nature. Before anyone gets their panties in a wad this obviously isn't always true but when it means retaining a job or being re-elected it is almost always true. This is why SS probably won't be reformed anytime soon, the politicians have to much to lose. 4. If I could opt out of SS and forfiet the money I'm "owed" I'd do it in a heart beat. The return that can be made off those funds between now and when I retire (I'm 40) would be many times what I'll receive from SS. One way to do that is be elected to a federal office, but I have to sell my soul to make that happen. Wheelman

Do the Spitfire, but drop a GM 4.3 V6 in it. Thats the project I was contemplating before I found the Z. Wheelman

I tried to search for this but really have no idea what to look for so here goes. I'm in the last stages of integrating the LT1 harness into my 73 240 and ran across a plug I can't identify. It's just inside the engine bay on the right hand side, has 4 female connectors with the following colored wires: 2 black/white (appear to be switched power), black/yellow, green/black. The black/yellow goes around the front to the driver's side all others go into the passenger compartment. Anyone know what these connections are? I also found a black (ground) wire that follows the black/yellow wire to the passenger side and Ys into 2 connectors. The other end goes inot the big white plug in the passenger foot well that is connects to the dash harness. I tried to trace this one out but found no connections to it. Anyone have an idea what this one is for? Once I get these nailed down the wiring will pretty much be at a state where I can try to fire up the car so I'm a bit anxious to figure them out. Wheelman

The MSA page says it's an adapter that accepts the Datsun sender. No picture but I'm assuming it's basically the same thing JTR sells that's a brass fitting that lets you use a Datsun temp sender in a V8. If this is the case then you also need the Datsun sender which then plugs into the yellow wire you mentioned with no other changes or calibration required. As for the oil pressure sender you can get one at a local parts store and yes you want to use the Datsun unit. It will screw right into the original pressure sender orifice, although you might want to set up a pressure switch that cuts off the fuel pump when oil pressure drops like the JTR manual shows. Wheelman

I've got 88 Acura Integra seats. They are very comfortable and fit the interior nicely. Had to fab adapters to fit the original Datsun rails to them though. Wheelman

I'd much rather see the Burger Sling commercial than the one for Pepto Bismal with the squirt dance version of the maquerana(sp), although all commercials get on my nerves. Wheelman

For the price of the painless (?) harness I'll do it myself. It really isn't that bad once you get a wiring diagram and trace out the leads. The biggest head ache for me was that I relocated the PCM to the opposite side of the engine bay from where it was in the donor so I had to lengthen half and shorten the other half. The circuits that weren't needed were pretty obvious other than a couple I had questions about (oil level sensor and water temp guage sensor). My questions were answered here or on ls1tech.com so it wasn't really a very big deal. I agree with Tim about getting TunerCat or LT1edit except it doesn't necessarily give you the knowledge of which values to tweak in order to get it setup the way you want. I plan on having the major changes done by someone who knows what they're doing and then fine tune it myself. Wheelman

I have to give a very hearty second to what COZY said. I'm one of those guys who had a Z early in my life that I was forced to part with and finally got another. An SE-R may be a rare car but it's also a fairly rare person who will know what it is and notice. To everyone else your driving around just another riced out econo-box. If thats what you're into then I guess it's OK but I'd rather have the style of the Z. The question also arises "What is wrong with this thing that makes the guy want to sell it so badly?". Maybe it doesn't have any problems, maybe it does, can you tell at this point? You know all the warts your Z has and thats why you think you want to sell it. I'd rather keep the devil I know than acquire one I know nothing about. If you do decide to go for the SE-R look me up in about 10 years when you're looking for another early Z and there are none to be had, maybe we can work a deal but it'll cost you dearly. Wheelman

I had to research the subject when building my LT1. I decided to use a T5 rather than a T56 so the standard LT1 flywheel and clutch wouldn't work. Turns out the flywheel from a late model 305 with a 1 piece rear main is only 16 pounds, bolts right up and has an integrated counter weight. Best part is they are pretty cheap, although for a real performance application (high RPM) I'd use an aftermarket unit that is stronger. Wheelman

Hey Bastaad you're always the first because you're the only one here that buys that mag. JK Wheelman

Tim, Why don't you measure the voltage drop across the sensor with the O2 sensors operating in a normal environment then get a resistor of the same value. I think the PCM uses the 5 volt as a reference and then compares the voltage it reads back to determine a value from the O2 sensor. Either that or it measures the current flow which will still be determined by the correct value of the resistor. I also don't think the PCM compares the front and back set of sensors. I think it uses the front to set fuel/air ratios in closed loop mode and the back to determine that the cats are still good. Thats why you can put a sim in and it won't affect the engine operations, only fools the PCM into believing the cats are good. Wheelman

All 350s are not internally balanced. The LT1 and late model SBCs with the 1 piece rear main seal are externally balanced. Wheelman

I'm using the same method Tim used. Weather pack plugs are easy to come by in JYs and all autoparts stores have heat shrink and tape. Use heat shrink more than tape is possible but both are good. I'm trying to make it possible to totally separate the LT1 harness from the Datsun harness by putting plugs at all connections between the 2. That way if there are major wiring issues I can disconnect them and track from there. Wheelman

Depends on all the "other" things you have done to the car "while you're at it". It's hard to say exactly how long it takes, alot depends on the condition of the car when you start and how much extra you want done. A basic SBC install using the JTR set back method could be completed in a weekend if all the parts are gathered up first. Sorting it all out afterwards can take the rest of your life depending on how picky you are. Think about installing an LT1 or LS and the time gets much longer, and if you decide to rebuild the suspension and/or rearend it gets longer still. My suggestion is talk to some local mechanics to see if you can find one that will even do it and based on their cost estimates make your decision. Wheelman

If you have an air hammer you can try pushing from the other side. Use the pointed bit in the center dimple of the axle. That might work. I know what you mean though, when I put my CV axle adapters on I was going to pull the stubs to check the bearings and re-grease everything. I finally just gave up and packed as much new grease as I could get in from the back side. Good luck. Wheelman