wheelman

How about those Bud Light commercials. Gotta love the Horse blue dart commercial and the Dog competition (What does your dog do?). He He He.

NIC, You are correct, the program I mentioned "Slammer" isn't technically a virus but it is a good example of the type of program that attacks the Liunx/Unix type OSs. It's to easy to say "Switch to Linux and everything will be better". The solution to the virus, spam, worm, backdoor problem isn't simply switching to a different OS. All developers must commit themselves to producing high quality secure code not bloated applications that take a Pentium IV 2.5 gigahertz system just to run. I'm going to stop before I get going and this subject is to large for a single post to address adequately. I've been a software developer since the DOS days and have seen enough to know that there is no easy solution. I think it's going to get alot worse before it gets better. Unfortunately I think a real solution is going to mean a drastic reduction in our freedoms on the internet. Ken W.

NIC, I'm going to have to disagree with you that Linux is immune to viruses. OK well maybe the OS itself is fairly well protected and "viruses" don't work on it but not all the security holes have been patched. The applications also present a security problem, remember the "Slammer worm" that attacked a while ago? I run a small web-server based on Redhat 7.3 which runs Apache 1.3 something (can't remember exactly). Anyway Apache had a security problem which allowed a remote connection to send a command string that would upload code for a program which would then be compiled. The program of choice used a well known method to obtain root level access and then installed a backdoor, at least one variant did. The quick fix meant that permission to the C compiler were restricted to root access only but that means only a user with root level access can develope software on that system, not an option. Eventually a patch was produced for Apache but in the mean time I had to compile code on a different machine and upload it for testing. Anyway the Unix style variants are more secure than Windows or the MAC OSs but not entirely immune. It takes more work and a better understanding of the OS but Linux can and has been penetrated. I prefer Linux or Windows but using it won't solve all the security problems. I subscribe to several computer security related news letters and everyone I get that reports exploits includes something for everyone. Windows, MAC, Linux, CISCO, and cross platform apps. Until the software industry as a whole takes the security issue seriously there will never be a completely secure OS. By security I mean worms, viruses and other malware. Ken W.

Silicone Boy, You want to think twice about using exhaust piping on your intake unless you have it coated. The last thing you want is corrosion to form in your intake down stream of the air filter(s). Have the piping ceramic coated or use stainless if you can find it. Just a thought. Ken W.

These emails are probably not coming from members of this site. This virus does what is called address spoofing. This makes the message appear to have been sent by someone when in reality is was a totally different computer. Everybody make sure to update your virus scanners and keep them updated. If you aren't running a virus scanner, shame on you, go get one and install it. When you receive one of these emails or any email for that matter that contains an attachment that you aren't expecting, don't open it, just delete it. Be skeptical of all email you aren't expecting that contain attached files even from people you know, especially if the attachment contains executable code. Another way to help reduce virus infections is to turn off the preview pane in your email program, this will prevent the message from being opened automatically if it is that last one received. This gives you a chance to delete it without opening it first. This virus doesn't do anything automatically, you have to open the attachment, which is usually a zip file and then open the program or file found inside of that. So all the computers infected with this virus are due to stupid people clicking on everything that shows up in their email box. Give them all a heart felt thank you!!! Ken W.

I asked a similar question a while ago and someone mentioned that a bell housing from a 96 Camaro with a V6 would work. It was stated that the bolt pattern for the engine side was the same as the V8 and the tranny side was the same as a Ford T5. I never did really check this out because not to long after that I ran across a good deal on a GM WC T5. Good luck with this and let us know what you find out. It would be great to find a relatively cheap way to adapt a Ford T5 to an SBC as the Ford trannies are very easy to come by and the GM units aren't, at least not where I live. Ken W.

I agree with Deep and BlueOvalZ. I would first make sure everything on it is in tip-top shape, but not do any upgrades. Run it for a season and get some driving experience with it, see how you like it, then decide. In the mean time be doing some research into the available options for an engine swap should you decide to do one and suspension changes if it needs any. You'll find many engines that meet your specs and picking the one you want may not be an easy decision, so do your research and be open minded about your options. Ken W.

Rxsvn, You should look for a 1995 LT1 from a Camaro, Firebird/TA or Corvette. These engines breath good up to ~6500 RPM, have aluminum heads, intake and water pump. They put out between 285 to 310 HP stock with around 320-350 FT/LBS of torque depending on which one you get. The Corvette motors put out the most power but are also more difficult to find. They can also be found in Impalla SSs, Caprice Cop Cars, Buick Roadmasters and Cadillac Fleetwoods but these versions have iron heads and a cam designed to develop low end torque as opposed to high end power. They are still desirable though as the aluminum heads aren't that expensive and a cam swap is relatively simple. You want the 1995 model year because it came with the best combination of upgraded OptiSpark modules and flash programmable OBD1 computer. These engines are standard small block chevys except for a reverse cooling provision that pumps the coolent through the heads before the block. This allows them to run 10.5/1 compression ratios and still use pump gas. They can be had relatively cheaply which leaves more money for modifications, but based on your wants you may not need to do more than a refresh job on one. Anyway do some research on these engines you may find a perfect match for your requirements. Ken W.

Scottie, Thanks for clearing that up. Ken W.

I know this thread started out asking about handling of a ZX with a V8, but I have a question about the weight dist. reported by Nissan on my 240. I've got a 73 240 that I'm putting an LT1 into so I've been interested in what people have to say. I've seen in several places that the front/rear weight dist is 52/48 or something similar, does this only apply to later model 280s and 280ZXs? Here is a shot of the vehicle ID plate on my 240 that clearly shows (at least according to Nissan) that the rear weight was higher than the front. The exact opposite to those stated above 48 front/52 rear. I don't have my swap done yet and won't for quite a while so I can't weigh the car but the 50/50 dist sounds more reasonable if the rearend starts out higher. Any thoughts? Ken W.

Brad-ManQ45 The body will maintain it's original ride height relative to the ground because the strut towers are part of the body not the crossmember and the springs are on the struts. The crossmember spacers will affect the steering geometry though for the very reason you stated. The control arms and steering rack are attached to the crossmember. When the crossmember is lowered relative to the body the angle of the control arm will be changed which in turn changes the distance the wheel hub is from the center of the car. This is why you get more bump-steer and need to have the alignment adjusted when you add these crossmember spacers, unless you also use the struct spacers that are placed between the bottom of the struct and the control arm. I hope this helps to clear up some of the confusion. My opinion about the crossmember spacers is to not use them unless you absolutely need the additional hood clearance. Ken W.

FinalRights Before you make a final decision on carb vs EFI make sure you have sufficient hood clearance for the Ford 5.0 EFI manifold, they are pretty tall. I agree with Bushj, EFI is really the way to go and don't expect this to be a weekend job if your going to do it right. Other things to verify before deciding include: What type of steering rack does the car have, power rack&pinion, manual rack&pinion or reciprocating ball. The type of steering will have a huge impact on whether you can use headers due to clearance problems. Headers vs exhaust manifolds Engine mounts, you will need to fab your own. Manual or auto tranny and which one, C4, C6, Ford AOD, T5, Tremec TKO, etc.. Do you upgrade the rearend to handle the extra power? If you make this swap I think you will be the first so make sure to document it well and keep us updated. I would suggest getting the JTR manual even though it's for the GEN 1 Zs and slanted toward Chevy motors. It contains a lot of good information for an engine swap in general. Ken W.

Eric, I work as an embedded programmer for a small company that builds portable X-Ray equipment. I have lots of experience dealing with serial ports and proprietary protocols. I'm interested in doing the work for the company you mentioned. Please PM me with the contact information or I can send you an electronic version of my resume which you can then forward to them. Along with the serial port work I have done a small amount of USB stuff and am familiar with Bluetooth wireless configurations and hardware. I have been professionally programming for more than 17 years but started playing with computers in 1980 when the top-of-the-line was the RadioShack TRS-80. Anyway let me know what you want to do next. I look forward to hearing from you. Ken W.

Sorry Andrew I guess I need to pay more attention to who is posting what questions when I post an answer. Ken W.

Naturalkav, There aren't any "kits" available to install a small block Ford into a Z. Al Silvera (alsil on this site) makes an engine mount cross member that bolts to the frame rails to install a ford into a Z. In fact I was going to use one to put a 302 into my Z until I ran across a great deal on an LT1. When the search functions of this site are working again so a search of the Ford V8 forum for alsil and mount options and you'll get lots of usable info. If you are serious about putting V8 into your Z then be sure to get the JTR swap manual, it is Chevy slanted but is still very useful. I did a bunch of research on the Ford swap and found that the major things to watch for are steering rod clearance and hood clearance if you use the stock EFI manifold. The steering rod issue can be solved by using a u-joint but the EFI issue is more difficult. The following link is Alsil's personal web site. He has since sold the car but maintains the site as reference material for all of us. This site is a must see for Ford swaps. http://zcar.netdojo.com Good luck and keep us updated on your progress. Ken W.

Andrew, Try the following link for some information on using a Ford steering rack. http://zcar.netdojo.com/steering.htm This is Al Silvera's site. He dropped a Ford 302 into his Z and used a 95 Mustang rack for power steering. I don't know if this will work for you but at least it will give you some ideas to start. Because he installed a SBF and wasn't using the engine mouting towers they were removed but I think the rack could be pushed to the right some so the shaft would be in the same place as the stock rack. Good luck. Ken W.

Tennesseez, There isn't a book specifically written for the Ford 302 swap but get the JTR manual anyway. It contains lots of good info that's engine agnostic. As for the price difference, that depends on how much of the work you're going to do on your own and how much you're going to spend on your engine tranny combo. I was going to put a 302 into my Z until I ran across a 95 Caprice cop car with an LT1 for a good price but a late model 302 with a T5 from a Mustang can be had for a very reasonable price these days. In fact it's easier to find a Ford T5 than a GM T5. There are also a lot more speed parts for the 302 now than in the past. If you're going to use an automatic then the availability is about the same for GM or Ford. If you're set on a 302 then search this board for a guy named Al Silvera (alsil). He makes a very nice mount that is a full cross member. The price is about $125.00 including shipping if I remember correctly. You have to work something out with the steering shaft but a u-joint will solve that problem. Over all I think the 302 is a very good match to the Z due to it's power potential and weight, if I build another Z I'll drop a 302 into it. Good luck and keep us informed of your progress. Ken W.

I have several excuses for very little progress on the Z. 1. Had to do a brake job on my truck. I hate drum brakes, they will not remain on the Z. 2. The garage is not heated and it has been way to cold. 3. Had to deal with large amounts of snow at the apartment building I own. 4. Rebuilding the bathroom in one of my units. New linoleum and tub-surround. Not difficult just time and money consuming. I have made some progress though: 1. Removed exhaust mainfolds from LT1, found stripped hole. 2. Cut rusted areas from firewall and battery tray area on passenger side. 3. Started removing undercoating so I can expose bare metal to weld patches onto in wheel well and firewall. Also going to extend frame rails to back of car and install sub-frame connectors. 4. Stripped more paint from engine bay. 5. Collected more parts: R200, half-shafts and aluminum bell housing. I guess I have made more progress than I realized, it just doesn't seem like it because I've avoided spending any more time than I have to in the garage lately due to the low temps. Ken W.

Her behavior is just like our dog "Henry". We have to keep a close eye on him whenever someone he doesn't know comes to visit. Once he knows that they're accepted by us he settles down. Normally he won't growl but he inserts himself between us and is very alert to any moves the "stranger" makes towards one of us and will react by grabbing their arm. He doesn't bite, but grabs and tries to pull the other person to a safe distance. This can be very disconcerting to a stranger who has no idea what he's doing, so we keep him under tight control. We're trying to break him of this behavior but we got him when he was about 3 so it's been tough. Bad habits are hard to break. Female dogs will do the "PEE" thing when put into a stressful situation, it's a natural reaction for all female dogs, so thats not unusual. It's their way of showing their submission to the "Pack" leader. Ken W.

Tim, She definitely has the Heeler look. Our dog is a cross between a Blue Heeler and an Australian Sheppard. He doesn't have the off colored eyes of the Ausy but his shape looks exactly like your dog. He is roughly the same size also so my guess is she's a Red Heeler mix of some kind. The Heeler breeds are very good dogs, highly intelligent and very loyal but can be a little territorial so be careful with other dogs and guests at your home until you determine her disposition. Ken W.

Nic, I would think that installing a roll cage like you've described should maintain or possibly even increase the strength of the 240Z unibody. My guess is you'll have more problems getting them to seal. I suppose you could cut them from a wrecked ZX and weld them in, that way the locking and sealing mechanisms are intake and hopefully in good shape. Another thing you could do is analyze the structure used to stiffen the ZX to determine what was added to stiffen it, then reproduce that in the 240, although I think the roll cage is a better idea. On a different subject. I noticed that your wrecked Z had Enki rims. I have the same rims but gold anodized rather than black. I'm missing several of the plastic center caps, do you have them, are you interested in selling them and if so what would you want for them? Ken W.

Here's one that Aux might have found already! http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/472023 Just proves we're not the only ones that bust on the Ricers

Rufus, I took a closer look at the threads and I may be able to salvage them. I must remember to try the simple stuff first, besides it gives me good excuse to get a good tap and die set. Ken W.

I guess I fall into the same camp as Michael. Get the RX7 but I'll go one further and say that if you do then sell the Z. It sounds to me like that's really what you want to do and just can't bring yourself to admit it. You REALLY want that RX7 and are willing to draw funds and time away from the Z to acquire and "finish" it. You've listened to several people here tell you it's not good to have more than one project (which is very wise advice), you agree and then you make an argument that justifies buying the car back. So buy the RX7, sell the Z and invest the time and money into the RX7 to do it right. Then when you're satisfied the project is finished and you're ready, find another Z and build it. We won't ostrasize you on this site if you decide on this course of action. I would hazard a guess that all of us have wrestled with this type of decision and the only truely wrong answer is to have to many projects and neglect them all because you've over extended your resources. I hope this helps a bit and feel free to tell me I'm all wet. Ken W.

Blazing Saddles!!! (Mongo Like Candy, Somebody go back to town and get a whole sh_t load of dimes). Great movie!! Caddy Shack (I bet you 5 bucks he picks his nose. I bet you 10 bucks he eats it) Stripes (Army training Sir) Young Frankenstein (Hump? What Hump?) Animal House. The Lord of the Rings Trilogy, although The Return of the King was a little dis-appointing. Clint Eastwood spagetti westerns like Hang-em High, The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, A Fist full of Dollars and The Outlaw Josie Wails (sp). Galaxy Quest, Space Balls. Die Hard, Mad Max, Road Warrior Fiddler on the Roof, My Fair Lady. The Gumball Rally. The Vanishing Point. Preditor I and II, The Terminator and Alien movies. Ken W.