wheelman

How big will the file be? I have a server I manage but not much space or bandwidth, let me know? Wheelman

Are you sure you're putting them in the correct sides. The passenger side axle should be the one with the longer splined portion. Wheelman

I love this quote and it should have been said many posts back!!! As for what jmortenson was trying to say: I'll try and rephrase it, please forgive me John if I get it wrong. The lion evolved it's tools of the trade, teeth, claws, muscles and instincts. Man evolved his tools, large brain allowing him to use use other materials for offense and defense. OK now which is more natural? For a Lion to use his tools or a man to use his?? Or are they both the same. Maybe it's a stretch to say a Z or nuclear plant is "natural" in the sense they were created by man but they are a direct product of our intellect which IS natural, And it's natural for us to develop technology to subdue to world around us so we survive and flourish. The question of fairness is irrelevent, life isn't fair, never has been and never will be. Humans have used their superior brain power to survive and dominate this planet, without it we would still be cowering in the forests afraid of the moon, being eaten by that very lion we've been discussing. Wheelman

Hey, you forgot to mention the nefarious check ball that's still lost in the hinterlands of that tranny. Does it go with the package as well?? Sorry, I just couldn't resist. This is exactly why I stayed away from auto trannies also. Wheelman

I bought a cap, good quality. I'd be in for a couple Ts and stickers. Wheelman

80LT1, It was about the consistancy of wheel bearing grease but colored like vasiline, almost like cosmoline. I got almost all of it out, I was just wanting to flush it to ensure there wasn't anything else in there, although it looks clean. Evil, I figured that's what it was but asked anyway. After I posted the message last night I checked just how much things were moving. The unit is still open so I grabbed the input flange and then moved the ring gear. It moves much less than 1 millimeter before contacting the pinion when moved back and forth, so I think it's fine. No it's not an LSD. I'm not sure I really want one. I've got a limitted slip rear in my truck and it drives me crazy when going around sharp corners. It must be a locker because the inner wheel locks and then hops. I also noticed that things get squirrelly on wet pavement the other day. We had a short rain storm and I was going up a hill turning to the left and gave it some gas, the rear broke loose and just about put me in the guard rail. So I won't be spending a lot of money on an LSD unless they operate differently from the one in my truck. Thanks guys. Wheelman

I bought an R200 from one of our members. When it arrived I noticed it appeared to have a light grease in it. I assume it was for storage to prevent rust as the rear cover had been removed. I've cleaned out most of it but want to get it all out before installation. What is the best way to flush it out and what should I use as a solvent? I'm going to replace the output flange seals as I'm converting to CVs so I don't care if they're destroyed by the solvent. Also, should there be a slight play in the input shaft? I don't mean side to side or in and out but rotationally. IE. If I rotate the input flange there is a small amount of play before the output flanges begin to rotate. The amount is barely detectable but it is there. If there shouldn't be any play I suppose I'll need to have someone install shims to eliminate it, right? Wheelman.

I agree with TechnicalNinja. I'm a hunter and have been since I was a kid but this was not hunting. Those guys were out there for the kill and nothing else. Me and the guys I hunt with are not about the kill but about being in the outdoors and enjoying nature. It's thrilling to stalk an animal but the kill is a hard thing, I never enjoy it. I do enjoy eating the meat but that and being in the great outdoors is why I hunt. The kill and cleanup after are a big mess. As for the supermarket being a more "enlightened" place to get our meat I have to totally dis-agree. Getting our meat from the "supremarket" has helped de-value life for all of us. There's something about looking an animal in the eye when you kill it and then having to deal with preparing the meat that makes you respect life that much more. Those a-holes who took that lion won't have to deal with the aftermath and therefore it's meaningless to them. Wheelman

Majik, I'm with you man. I had a 260 back in the mid 80s when I met my wife. We made many great memories in that car and it broke my heart when I had to sell it due to a growing family. I told myself "Someday I'll get another". Well after almost 20 years we're finally in a position where I can indulge myself. So I started looking for a project car, not really intending to get a Z but then ran across this web-site and my mind was made up. I told Jamie, my wife, what I'd discovered and she was all for it. She is totally supportive of me spending all the time I do in the garage and encourages me when I get pissed because I discovered more rust or some other thing. Sometimes she is more anxious to get it finished and on the road than I am. Anyway Majik, comeandzpa is right, it sounds like you have found a great girl. Share the time and memories with her and it will enrich your life in ways you can't imagine. Wheelman

Congratulations on the successful bearing swap. As for the idea that low compression is causing your mis-fire at idle, it doesn't make sense to me. I'm thinking your idea of 20 year-old electronics is probalbly more likely. Let us know the results of the compression test. I bet it comes back just fine. Wheelman

Do yo have the JTR manual? If you follow the manual and have gathered all the required parts then 3-4 weeks is very doable, infact it will probably take less time. All bets are off though if you get the "While I'm at it" syndrome. Wheelman

Might be worth pulling a rod and/or main bearing just to verify there was no damage. You have to pull the pan anyway. Wheelman

That looks awesome. BTW: Does anyone else have problems with cardomain's pages. I can view the main page just fine but if I click on "enlarge" for one of the pictures my browser dies. I'm running IE 6 with all the latest patches. Wheelman

I can't answer the question about the early block issue but I can't see how you would install it with the engine separate from the bellhousing. There's nothing to hold it on except 4 small bolts that attach it to the bellhousing. If you tried to install it on the bellhousing then install the bellhousing you wouldn't be able to get it between the block and flywheel and still put the bell housing on the locating pins. As for installing it with the tranny and engine in the car it should be possible but could be a hassle if you need to modify it. Probably less of a hassle thna pulling the engine though. Wheelman

It's pretty sad his parents are taking advantage of it this way. They're causing more "Mental Stress" than the release of video did. RPMS, You're right about him probably being well on his way to unpopularity, but now look at the attention he's getting. My guess is this kid is loving every minute of it. I think the heading on the page Tim linked to said it all "Stupid Evil Bastard, What the F*** is wrong with you people?" I don't know why but I never cease to be amazed at how greedy, petty and down right stupid people can be. I don't know how this kids parents can do this and still look another person in the eyes. I guess some folks just know nothing about shame!!! Wheelman

Which bellhousing did you use? I'm putting together an LT1/T5 combo and used the 86-92 Camaro bellhousing that tilts the tranny 15 degrees to the left. The sources I've been able to find all show the half shield for the 86-92 Camaro/Firebirds with the T5. I ordered the shield that is used between the LT1 and T56 figuring the bellhousing shape would be the same as the one used with a T5 and lucked out. I got it yesterday and all the holes line up with my bellhousing. I don't know if it would work for you because of the 2 piece rear seal of the 327 but the shield from GM was only 8 bucks. It's worth a try and you could always modify it to fit your block. The one I got is for the 95 Camaro with a T56, I don't have the part number with me but can post it later if you like. Wheelman

Grmupy, Your timing was perfect with this information. I pulled the oil pan off my LT1 this weekend and checked 2 rod bearings and a main crank bearing. Everything looked like normal wear for an engine with 102,000 miles but there were signs of dirt contamination. The LT1 is from a retired Montana cop car so it's seen some hard usage. My plan is to do a refresh on it. Replace the bearings, rings and timing chain set along with the appropriate gaskets. I'm planning on a cam upgrade also, should I replace the cam bearings while I'm at it? I'll probably have the valves redone also seeing as I'll want to replace the springs when I upgrade the cam. Wheelman

I'm using a Hobart Handler 135. I have it setup with gas so I can use either self shielded or solid wire. If you're planning to get a welder make sure to get a good one, it makes a huge difference and if you can, get it setup to use gas shielding. Solid core wire with gas shield is much easier to use on thin sheet. Wheelman

Here are some pictures of the passenger side battery tray area and footwell after repair. I still need to clean things up and then paint them. I think things turned out pretty good considering I'm learning to weld as I do this project.

Turn up your speakers and then click on the following link. http://www.nasaracing.net/funstuff/sanitytest.htm Try clicking several times, it's very entertaining! Wheelman

Good point TechnicalNinja, try running the pump connected directly to a battery to eliminate the wiring in the car. If that doesn't get rid of the problem try running each pump connected directly to a battery and just run an input line and a return line and see if the pressure drops. In other words bypass each part of the system in the car until the behavior disappears. Wheelman

My daddy married his sister, but it didn't affect me none?!?!?

I'm running an LT1 so there is no fuel pump boss to interfere with the plate. In fact I tried changing my setup and could mount the driver's side per JTR instructions if I machined the spacer a bit but the passenger side won't work that way unless I dimple the header collector. I'm running Headman Tight Tubes which are shaped a little different than other block huggers. The cylinder 1 and 2 pipes are more forward and the collector is flat rather than round. Anyway I'm going to leave things the way they are, I've got plenty of clearance and it seems nobody thinks the order matters. I could post pictures if anyone wants to see the setup. Wheelman

Terry, My Z isn't drivable yet. Right now the front is torn apart and I've welded in a new battery box, firewall, fenderwell on the passenger side and will finish the footwell this weekend then I start on the driver's side. It will probably be next summer before it's on the road. My next goal is to have the engine in and fire it up by my 40th birthday this coming October. I think it's doable but it's gonna be tight. After that I'll put the interior and brakes back together. Tim, Thanks for the input. I thought the same thing but wanted some other opinions. Wheelman

OK, this question came up in another thread recently and I searched to see if had already been answered. Either nobody thinks it's important or everyone has been to embarrased to ask. Several of us have assembled the JTR setback plate/spacers in a different configuration than JTR specifies and I was wondering if anyone thinks it makes a difference. Example: In order to clear my headers I placed the plates against the block, then the spacer between the plate and the motor mount. I did this on both sides. The JTR manual says put the spacer against the block, then the plate and then the mount but shows a picture with the passenger side one way and driver's side the other. So, does it matter? Wheelman