shakav

Hi: I have a 1995 LT1 installed in my 73. I used the stock Camaro accessory bracket for the alternator installation. Of course modifications were required. It has been a while and I did not write anything down, I believe I used a power steering delete kit as received and Modified an A/C delete kit. Had to measure for the belt and sorted it out.....not sure of the final length of the belt. I used the JTR mounts with basically the same block hugger headers in your picture....mine were not chrome. I am attaching some pictures of the installation. Hope they help. It is actually an LT 1.......converted to carburetor. Enjoy! Paul

Hi Miles.......It is a really long story. I will shorten it up as much as possible. Lt1 from a 1995 Camaro purchased with flywheel/pressure plate still installed. T5 from 1992 Camaro purchased separately. When conversion installed with JTR pieces all was excellent.....3/4 in M/C, stock slave. Damaged #7 piston on the track. Removed and repaired and replaced clutch and pressure plate when re-assembling. Subsequent vibration ..... clutch causing it. Purchased stage 1 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate kit....even though stock would work fine I wanted a quality piece so I had no more vibration issues . Machine shop checked balance with original flywheel as reference. Removed tranny with car on jack stands with engine still installed. Replaced flywheel but could not reinstall tranny due to clearance issues.......needed more hands and more time. Because of time restraints of the space I was occupying I decided to reinstall the original flywheel with the new clutch and pressure plate. Vibration gone but the flywheels had different height profiles. As a result I did not enough travel at the clutch fork. By installing the 1 inch M/C I got the travel I needed and a really stiff clutch pedal. Been driving the car like this for 3 plus years with a yearly trip to Lime Rock. So after selling my aircraft repair shop in late 2018 and 2 shoulder surgeries in 2019 I have decided to address this issue. As my shoulders healed I filled the time by restoring/overhauling/updating the interior. Just another long story like countless others out there!

Thanks for responses..........at the present time the transmission is still installed which is why I have chosen this course of action. I can make my current geometry work with my I inch master cylinder....which results in a very stiff clutch pedal which is how it was before I started playing. Changing the pivot point would allow me go with a 3/4 inch or 7/8 inch master cylinder reducing pedal effort to a more comfortable level. The pivot ball pictured in hardened steel and no machinable. If I cannot piece together what I need and end up removing the transmission then my approach will be different. Thanks for the posts.

I was hoping someone could help me find an adjustable clutch fork pivot ball..I have a 1973 240z where I have installed an LT1 from a 1995 camaro and a Borg Warner World Class T5 from a 1992 camaro. The threads on the stock pivot ball in the picture is 22mm x2.5 as is the threaded bell housing. My local speed shop had nothing to help me. I purchased a 22mm x 2.5 die and had a friend attempt to thread a piece of mild steel round bar to fabricate one....but alas the die failed after just about a 1/2 inch of thread being cut. After searching online before and after this attempt I could only find one adjustable pivot ball that identified the threads for the bell housing.......it was 13/16-16...no help. I did purchase a threaded pivot ball stud that that is 1/2-13 which I will attempt to find and drill a m22-2.5 fully threaded bolt. There seems to be a lot more info on the Mustang T5's out there but I have been unable to piece all the info together. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I just fininished my LT1 installation.....I struggled with the same dilema...alternator mounting. After a bunch of research I opted to keep the LT1 bracketry. My LT1 is converted to rochester carburator. I had purchase an A/c delete pulley that rested on the right frame rail. I then fabricated my own. I used a power steering delete pulley, I have the manufacturer at work but I found it thru this site. good luck

Hi All: My carburated Lt1 install in my datsun 240Zis almost done. I was wondering if someone could help me with the alternator hook-up. I had cut the alternator connector off the LT1 harness which had a single pink wire. I assumed this was the field wire. I had converted my old charging system to a single wire alternator from a 1985 nissan 300zx and it had worked flawlessly. I had put an inline diode on my field wire when I did my old upgrade. This kept the alternator from back feeding the ignition circuit. I have the 1996 camaro service manual but it is no help. I may in fact have a bad alternator. If have bus voltage to the pink wire but I am not getting any output from the alternator. If someone had a simplified wiring schematic that would help. The connector has holes for 4 pins and there are 4 pins on the alternator but only one pink wire. I do not know what the other pins on the alternator are for. Is there a simple test to see if the alternator is any good? I would also like to post some pictures but do not know how..... regards Paul Shakalis

Thanks for the reply. I will wait on the driveshaft.......was hoping to save down time. I bought a Tilton 3/4 inch master cylinder for the clutch.....retapped the output port for 1/8 pipe and installed an 90 degree AN fitting for a dash 6 hose. I can't seem to find the slave cylinder plunger........parts have been laying around for a while. I modified the slave cylinder per the JTR manual. I will have to fabricate my own rod. I will post updates. regards

Thanks for the input. I will wait on the driveshaft and will probably route the steam vents to the radiator return. I am hoping to get started in a couple of weeks.

Hi All: I was wondering if anyone who has transplanted an LT1 could link me too some installation pics. Any advice as to clearance issues, exhaust or any glitch would be helpful. I am new to this board and will fill you in on where I stand. I have an LT1, removed from a 96 camaro and a T5 from a 92 Camaro. I am using the JTR mounting kit. I have converted the LT1 to carburator with a GM intake, petronix flamethrower distributor and a Rochester 4 barrel. I am using the LT1 accessory bracket with A/C and Power steering delete Pulleys. I have removed the oil cooler and plugged the waterpump fitting for it. I have removed the Optispark and installed a GM cover plate. I will be putting timing marks on the LT1 dampener. This dampener is 7.5 inches and JTR reccomends 7.25 inches or less. Did anyone have clearance issues? I plan on routing the cylinder head steam vents to the overflow tank of the cooling system.......I've read this works. I have also read that people have routed it to the heater return line. I was going to have the driveshaft set to the dimensions given in the JTR manual, 20.5 inches prior to the transplant to expedite things. My son thinks I should wait and measure myself. Have any of you found a large deviation from the JTR reccomendations? I found the power steering delete pulley from a thread on this board as well as other great info. As I said.........any photos, links, troublespots, advice would greatly be appreciated. This car currently has a 3.1 stroker with triple 45 webers. I use the car mostly for track days here in the northeast but am hoping for better driveability with a simple clean swap........so that I might drive the car more often. regards Paul Shakalis Shakv