rjstcroix

Hey, Airbags we're invented for a**holes who don't wear seat belts. How many race cars do you see with airbags? Race cars obviously have a driver centric safety design. To all the morons who don't buckle up on our public roadways, in the ditch, ejected from your car and injured in a "minor" roll over, Darwin thanks you again for attempting to prove his theory. Our crew in #405 at this year's Targa Newfoundland walked away from the impact. Navigator had a tender ankle and a hangnail he was complaining about (haha, Sorry BJ)...otherwise everything was fine. Funny enough, driver had a minor back problem before the incident that went away after the impact. Expensive chiropractic treatment. This treatment is not recommended by 10 out of 10 Chiropractors. Like others have said, learn how to drive not just operate a car. It will be your biggest investment in safety and your life. Collision avoidance is the key. Oh and buckle up dammit. Regards, RSC

Hey, I'll second that one John...with this video. ~70mph, 3.5g impact based on datalogging info. Check out the full story here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/forums/index.php?topic=2916.0 Regards, RSC

Hi, I agree with what John said. This is an advanced forum. I can't call myself an expert in anything but always respect the time effort and consideration others have put into this site. I compose my posts and threads with this in mind. In the realtively short time I've been a registered user of this site, (<2yrs) I found the high degree of moderation on this forum keeps out the non-sense. Straight facts, healthy discussion on new ideas, developments and projects keeps me coming back to this site and the main reason I only support Hybrid Z. Regards, RSC

BRAAP, Been following yours and Z-ya's stuff for a couple of years now. Always interesting, factual and concise. If this doesn't qualify for a sticky then nothing will. Sticky vote #1. Regards, RSC

Hi, Charlie Osbourne's front frame rails are intended to be a full replacement not a cap. He's got quality stuff. Have a set of floors from him, can't be beat. http://www.datsunzparts.ca/ The chassis/subframe connectors are best gotten from Bad Dog Parts. www.baddogparts.com RSC

Hey, Great work. I vote for sticky. RSC

Hey, I picked up this header from a guy who said it was a "Thunderbird" header. Couldn't find any reference to Thunderbird in searches. Ford T-bird pops up. Wondering if the Hbrid Z community might know something about this one. L6, square port header, smog ports, stainless steel, 1.5" primary runners, 2" collectors. Runner lengths (+/- 1/2"): Cyl 1: 28" Cyl 2: 24" Cyl 3: 24" Cyl 4: 26" Cyl 5: 24" Cyl 6: 23.5" Cyl 1 primary is 3-4 inches longer than Cyls. 2&3. Is this a big concern? Overall it looks to be decent build quality. Is this some home job or is this an aftermarket header that is NLA? Pic attached. Thanks. RSC

Hey, If you have a spare dryer outlet just change it out to a proper welding plug. They are available at any hardware store. Goes without saying that the outlet should be on a 30 amp double pole breaker. Make sure the "spare" dryer outlet is not junctioned off of your existing dryer outlet. Not such a problem, but don't expect to run the drier and weld 1/4" plate at the same time. If your talking an extension cord to go from a 4 prong male dryer outlet to to a 3 prong female welding outlet to accept a male welding plug...they don't exist. At least that I haven't found in my travels. Custom made can be done. Watch season 4 episode 3 of Macgyver for a video on how-to. Easily can be rigged up with spare chewing gum and a 3 inch Swiss Army knife. HA! You can buy factory made 3 pronged welding extension cords. 9/3 AWG. $$$ Don't bother with flux core. Get the regulator and Ar/CO2 gas before you start any welding. Flux core welding is a waste of time and materials. Also, if you're new to welding, read the welding tips page. Don't burn down your house trying to Red-Green a welding receptacle. Have someone knowledgable help you out with this. Insurance companies are bastards when it comes to unlicened handy-man wiring. If they had their way you would have to hire a licenced electrician to change a light bulb. Consider that my disclaimer. Happy welding! RSC

Hi Pete, Excellent work...a great looking Z. Really like how the RB sits in the engine bay. Hopefully get to see this car at ZCON next month! RSC

Hey, This might help. Its difficult to see on your own car sometimes. By running your hand over the balancer (car off) might be able to locate it by feel. If you're trying to check timing I'd suggest wire brushing the mark indicator and the timing notch then highlight both with some chaulk. Hope this helps. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/timinmark/index.htm Enjoy! RSC Oops...just read "Cam pulley" can't help with a pic on that one. Sorry.

Hey, Here's a link that will help you understand a little more about the vac. advance. Enjoy! RSC http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html

Hey Guys, Never used seafoam. I've used automatic trans fluid in the crank case of a 100000+ mile Jaguar V12. Also used it in the case of my Superduty diesel p/u. Worked out fine, no adverse affects I've talked to a few vintage mechanics who swear by it. Cleaner OHC/valve assemblies and bottom end internals. The theory is that the trans fluid has a higher level of detergents than regular oil and will remove some of those sludge deposits. The method I've used and seems to be the main stream is to use this just before changing your oil. Run your engine until the oil is hot drain a portion of the oil out and replace the same amount with ATF. Go for a 30-45 minute drive then drain all fluids from the pan. Replace filter. To give you an idea of quantities to try. The Jag carries 10.5 liters of oil. I drained 1 liter and replaced with ATF. The Superduty carries 14 liters. Also did a 1 liter replacement with that one. This is purely anecdotal with no quantitative evidence of "cleanliness of internals" but the basis of the ATF and detergents seems to be a fairly common thing. I've even heard of some guys doing the same with diesel fuel. Try at your own risk. Cheers, RSC

260DET, Flares are permitted in our targa rally. I've got a thread going on our club site on the 2009 Targa. It should be airing on Speed Channel and Motors TV sometime in March. Here's a link to the thread. http://www.atlanticz.ca/forums/index.php?topic=2583.0 Cheers, RSC

Hey, I've got an old Jag with a V-12. Try rebuilding a V-12 sometime...for something to do. The electrics are hilarious! Mr. Lucas was some kind of genius..."some kind" being open to interpretation. To: drive 185mph There have been numerous Jag powered Z's. Best example I can show you: http://cache.gawker.com/assets/images/jalopnik/2009/08/NPOCPV12ZEng.jpg Not mine...but awesome work nonetheless. Rebuilding Fuel Injection, and iginition on a V-12 isn't all THAT bad. You only have to fix the same crap 12 times everytime over and over. Belleview Hospital next stop! The authoritative site on Jags and engines is: www.jag-lovers.com If you can't find it there without some respectable searching of links and such then it can't be found. Enjoy! Cheers, RSC

Hi Again, Should've mentioned that the aluminized paint sells at nearly any hardware store here in Canada so you shouldn't have a problem finding it in the paint dept. of any decent hardware store. Get the high heat stuff. If you really are particular you can buff the rail to smooth it before paint and then run 000 steel wool lightly over the rail in between fully cured coats of the paint. Then clear coat. Preparation is the key to any good paint finish. Have fun...post a pic or two when you're done. Cheers, RSC

Hi, Been lurking on Hybrid Z for months...could've posted on a bunch of stuff but didn't so here goes. The metallic yellow/green color is an OEM cadmium/vanadium plating. Eastwood has rattle cans that will replicate this finish and other plating companys can do it too...but why bother ($$$)....unless you're going for a coucours high score or something. I did a fuel rail on a Jag V12 bead blasted and then used high heat aluminized paint coating. Plug injector /fuel inlets and tape any fuel hose barbs with a couple wraps of black electric tape before bead blasting. Wipe down rail with a tack cloth after blasting. Warm the rail with a propane torch or in oven to liberate moisture and open from the metal then apply light coats. Warming opens the "pores of the metal" so that the aluminized paint will better adhere or so my metalurgical friend tells me. Wait 15-20 mins/light coat. Bake in an oven after 3-4 coats at approx. 200F for 30 mins. If you really want to go the extra mile use a clear that will make your high heat aluminium last. Hope this helps. Cheers, RSC