gmanatc97

I have a 78 280z with a stock L28e that I have been working on here and there for about three years. When I got the car, it would not run. So after trying different things I found that it was just a rusty old fuel tank and rust in the fuel system. But during this process I bypassed the relay under the passenger seat going to the fuel pump. So now the fuel pump runs constantly when the key is in the on position. I have not done any other wiring adjustments, but that doesn't mean someone else hasn't. Here are my questions: A. What is the exact function of that relay? B. Is that relay the reason for the pump running constantly or is that a function of the fuel pump relay under the dash? C. Is there any problems with the pump running constantly? Other than possibly overheating.

Great looking Z, almost has an Aston Martin look to it after the chop. Very sweet lines.

Has anyone bought and installed any weatherstripping for AutoObsession.com? Seems to me a decent price for the individual pieces. Here is the page: http://www.autoobsession.com/http/www.autoobsession.com/weatherstripping/nissan/datsun/280z.aspx

I plan on buying a 45 deg filler neck. Summit has them for about $80, but I am going to try and find it cheaper. Then if you take the stock neck that goes to the outside of the car and turn it 180 deg, it points in towards the center of the car. At that point you will need to drill new holes for two out of the four bolts to hold it in. I am going to cover the fuel cell with a piece of sheet metal and make a tunnel for the tube from neck to neck. Everything SHOULD fit under the wood sub-floor. Might need to trim the plastic interior pieces a little though. I am also going to hook the vent tube from the fuel cell to the vent tube on the side of the stock filler neck. Hope this helps and is semi-understandable.

This weekend I got everything I set out to do, done. I got the new regulator in the mail and hooked it up (about $30 on eBay). I have not mounted it yet, still trying to decide where. Any ideas? With the pump pulling fuel from a gas can, I was able to get the pressure regulator dialed in. It took about 8 cranks, but she fired up and idled. I couldn't get the engine to rev. So after posting a help thread in the Nissan L6 thread, and feeling a little dumb, I realized that the tube going from the AFM to the throttle body needed to be hooked back up so the AFM can send the rev signal to the ECU. With that done, she ran like a champ for the first time in three years! I also got the frame for the fuel cell in and the cell in the hole. After reading all the posts and seeing the pics of everyone else that has installed a fuel cell, I knew i had to make a frame to mount the cell. It adds strength to the rear frame area, since I removed a lot of metal from the hatch area. Now all I need is a 45 deg filler neck and to cover the hole with sheet metal. Don't need any road noise and exhaust in the car. Instead of buying the fuel cell mounting kit, I made one. I knew my setup would be a little different than the kit. The brackets cost me about $10 and 30 min. Lowe's has 8 foot long pieces of aluminum that are about 1/8 inch thick and perfect for the brackets. I just measured them out and used a bench vise to make the bends. I am sure most of you are saying, yeah that's a no brainier. But for those of you with limited metal working skills, like myself, its not that hard. Just take your time and add a little to your measurements. You can always cut some off, its REALLY hard to add more when dealing with metal.

So last weekend I got a few things done. I patched the rust spot above the frame on the drivers side inner fender well. I also bought most of the materials to put in the fuel cell. I am putting in a fuel cell because its a low cost replacement to a wore out old fuel tank with rust taking it over. I have determined that the rust in the tank is causing the engine not to run. With that said, I have replaced the fuel pump, filter and cleaned out all the fuel lines. I ordered a new adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a gauge so I can tell exactly how much pressure is in the fuel rail and change it if needed. I got the hole for the fuel cell all measured out and cut.

I am well on my way into this build, but I figured I would post. There is SO much information here and SO many helpful people with tons of knowledge that they are willing to share. So if during this build I do something stupid or can not figure something out, I know I can get some help by posting what I am doing and planning. I started with a 1978 280Z that I bought from my father-in-law. When I met my wife she had an 83 280ZX and loved it. She had to sell that car shortly before we got married. So when given the opportunity to get this one, I jumped. Of course instantly the thought and plans for a 500hp V8 and a full race setup were flying through my head. The car did not run and there was water leaking in through the rear hatch and doors. Well two and a half years later I am now getting some work done on the car and just want to be able to drive it. So here is what has been done so far: I have pulled the fenders off Torn out the interior Found what I think is all the rust (rear hatch deck lid, floor pans, and a spot in the inner fender well on the drivers side)

Okay, first off, I love HybridZ! Everybody on here has a wealth of knowledge and is willing to help. Secondly, I feel like an idiot. I am still learning the Zs and how they work. I learned, with you alls help, the AFM has to have the tube connected to the throttle body in order for things to work correctly. Looking back this makes sense, how else would the AFM be able to tell that more air is being sucked in and to add more fuel. Again thank you to everyone for the advise and help.

Could it be that the injectors just are not spraying more fuel?

I am trying to get my 1978 280Z back road worthy and running. The problem I am having is, the car will crank and idle right at 600 RPMs. Whenever I try to apply the throttle it dies out. It will not even try to rev, just dies. I have gone through or replaced ALMOST the entire fuel system. I have installed a new fuel cell, new pump, filter, cleaned the fuel rail and injectors, and installed a new adjustable fuel regulator with a gauge. When i tested the car I was not running it on the fuel cell, I ran the feed and return hoses into a gas can. I had the pressure in the rail set at 35 psi, then went all the way to 50 psi with no change. I even tried advancing and retarding the timing and again no change. I am looking for any advice or suggestions I can get.

I am looking for anyone who is parting out a car or has some floor pans and other sheet metal parts. What I need now is floor pans, obviously, and the rear hatch deck lid metal. I would really like to find someone in the NC area that has some Zs that I could come and pull parts as I need them.

I have a 78 280Z complete. I started to do a motor swap but am now having to move and need to sell. I also have a semi complete 350 that was going in it. The drivers side floor pan needs to be replaced and the upper rear hatch panel, other than that the car is in decent shape. The original motor ran the last time I tried it four months ago. Let me know if your interested.

Has anyone tried putting 3-series BMW seats in a 280Z? I have always liked the style and comfort of the sport seats. Might have to figure out some wiring options for them though.

I need to replace my rear hatch deck panel, at least I think thats what it is called. I need it cut where the white chalk is (screwdriver is pointing at the right line)

That's for the earlier models. The 78 only has one fuel pump. I have that diagram in the shop manual, but even the manual doesn't say alot if anything about the relay or how its wired. Thank you for the effort though, Its going to be a long road to get this Z up and running and I need all the help I can get.

I just bought and started working on a 78 280Z. Make it run was my first step. This car has been sitting for two years and ran fine before then. While working through the bugs I found that there was a relay under the passenger seat that goes to the fuel pump. If the wires were plugged into the relay, pump would not run. I bypassed the relay and pump runs and only shuts off with the ignition turned off. So I replaced the relay, and same thing. Questions 1) Is the relay factory? No one shows a replacement relay. If not how is the pump wired originally? 2) Is there any down side to not having the relay and making it a permanent bypass? 3) Anyone have the same problem a successfully fixed it?

I need an ignition switch. I need the whole assembly that wraps around the steering column.