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240zrb

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Posts posted by 240zrb

  1. I had the same problem, but I just cut back the number 2 section with the bend. That way I was left with a slightly shorter intake pipe, and more room for AFM and filter.

     

    Was a b*tch to get the AFM into the "wavy" section of the intake pipe tho...

  2. Thanx for all comments:-)

    Engine have no major mods, just 3" exhaust (strait to Apexi N1 exit), apexi cone filter, "freddy" intake manifoil, and a front mount ic.

    Other than bodywork there's:

    Wilwood brakes in front, Mustang Cobra brakes in the rear.

    R200 diff with Nismo 2 way clsd centre

    Custom Braids (3 piece) 8x17 and 10x17 with p-zeros (225/45-17 and 265/40-17)

    Arizona "heavy duty" springs

    Tockico Illumina shocks

    ++++

  3. Yes, it's the stock 2 step boost solenoid. It regulates the boost, 5 psi up to 4500rpm. Then bleeds of air, allowing the boost to be raised to 7psi on rpms above 4500... Remove it and you'll be runnin constant 5 psi (if you don't get a boost controller that is), or if you connect a permanent ground to it, then you'll run permanent 7psi (no longer 2 step). Linked is a nice write up about this thing:-)

     

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HOWTO-RB25DET-High-Boost-t42895.html

  4. Searched thru several threads regarding autometer (and other makes) gauges, and decided I "need" indicators...

     

    I had some 5mm led's laying around, so it was just about getting the balls to start drilling into the gauge faces...

     

    The led's were very bright, and I worried about how they would affect you when driving in the dark. And I read in another thread about light getting thru the led's from the gauge bulbs. My solution was putting some heatshrinking tube over most of the led, just leaving a very small portion to put thru the gauge face. Then I put 4-5 layers of tint over the tip of the led's, worked great and redused the blinding brightness:-) And the led's now appear black, and not clear glass:-)

     

    So now I have 2 green turn indicators (bottom) and a blue high beam indicator (top) in the speedo. In the tach I put a single red led at the bottom for parking brake, and 3 red at the top for check engine.

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  5. I doing an RB25DET swap in my -73 and optioned for Autometer speedo, tach and boost gauges. I live in Norway so I wanted an KM/H speedo, and the only autometer one i could find was the Ultra lite with aluminum/silver face. So I bought 3 gauges in the ultra lite series.

     

    Now I wanted to keep the amp/fuel and temp/oil gauges (swaped clock for boost gauge), AND I wanted them to look (at least a bit) simular to the speedo/tach/boost. So I started working....

     

    Stripped the gauges, scanned the gauge faces, painted faces, painted needles. Spent some time working on the scans, and printed them on some plastic sheets (like one use on overheads). Cut the prints and glued them on the painted gauge faces.

     

    A bit of a rought job, but let me know what you think.

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  6. I just got the one sitting on my car there, and I'm not selling:-)

     

    As stated I bought it from the guy running: http://www.jancarfactory.com , this guy's the former chairman of the old norwegian z-club. And I belive the airdam mold was bought by him from a swedish guy (IF I remember correct....).

     

    Don't remember how much I paid for the front/rear piece, sorry, SLOW moving project (and years since i bought the parts).....

  7. Just got my RB25DET engine / manual trans package from Karim,r390sports@sbcglobal.net today, SO clean, GOOD condition:-) AND this engine have traveled JP-US-Norway-WAY up north in Norway... Undamaged:-)

     

    When I first made contact I asked for a price qoute R33 RB25DET engine / man trans package, got answer 2900$ series 1... What did I get? LATE series 2! :-) I'm very pleased with this deal:-)

     

    Karim also kept me informed all the way. I have found an engine for you. Engine leaving Japan (with pictures). Engine arrived US. Engine leaving US (with pictures). Always giving advice: to avoid delays, check if shipping agency / customs your side has all needed papers etc etc

     

    What I'm trying to say is: If I ever need another engine, I'll buy from Karim! Nice price (considering the testing they do to the engines BEFORE shipping them), great SERVICE!

     

    Thanx, Karim! for putting me 1 step closer to 240zRB!

  8. I would like to buy an rb25det / trans from Venus, but they won't ship outside US. SO, I figured if I can get a shipping company to pick it up at Venus and ship it to Norway, problem solved... BUT, anyone got any recommendations on what company to use?

     

    Any help appreciated:-)

     

    240zrb

  9. Why would I need their approval.... Well, here in Norway it's like this:

     

    If the cops pull you over (for what ever reason) they will check you dr license, AND the car dokuments... IF you have wider wheel on the car than whats stated in the documents, then they can: 1. take the cars licens plates (and you must leave it where it is...) and then you have to get the car inspected by the car tech guys... 2. If your lucky, get a warning and a date to show the car to tech guys... Well, you CAN go up 20 without getting it entered in the car documents (like from 175 to 195), but i'm going from 175 to 265 rear:-) and from 175 to 225 front:-)

     

    Also one could have problems with the insurance company if something were to happen... car have been rebuilt without tech approval - insurance no longer valid...

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