FiveSeventyZee

What? The only transmission cooler I know of is the type that work like the radiator does and usually are on/near the radiator. I don't have one. Unless by trans cooler you mean something other than a transmission cooler, in which case I have no clue what that is

There's mine as of 12-2-08, one day after I brought it home. I don't have any current pics, not terribly exciting. Maybe I'll take some tomorrow.

I don't have a trans cooler. Is that why nothing is plugged into it? (I bought the car with the swap already done) Did it just come on the engine because they had automatics on the 5.7 Camaros? Because the PO swapped to a WC T5.

I found this on the driver side of my L98. I'm not really sure what it is but it looks to me like it may be some sort of sensor? Anyone know? The engine's from an 89 Camaro if that helps

I went to check the wiring to see if the ground was okay, if it can't ground it can't dump the extra volts. I discovered it's a Hitachi alternator, checked my Haynes manual and sure enough it's stock from the 240. I also discovered that the voltage regulator is external, and still there, no clue if its good or not. I'm thinking I should get what I thought it was, a chevy alternator. Now I need to know if I should get a one wire alternator or a normal chevy alternator. Either way I'm getting one with an internal regulator. Also most alternators on jegs and summit are high output alternators, could I run into any problems running a high amp alternator on a relatively normal setup? (mechanical fuel pump, for now, no major stereo plans, really no huge electronics plans) Or would I be fine with some 100 amp unit?

I haven't done anything to the alternator since I've had the car. I did this test so I could see if something was wrong before taking it off, but I guess I could take it off and take it to get tested. I'm thinking a new single wire alternator might be an easy way to fix this problem.

I checked at the positive wire on the alternator. Its a 72 s30 however its a SBC swap with the alternator from the same 89 camaro the engine came from. Where should the connections go? I've never really done much with an alternator before other than replacing one in my 80 720 which was just an unplug and plug in the new one. I was measuring it in DC volts. This is one of those things I was checking when I was in disbelief at the 39 volt reading. But it was in DC volts (the 50 volt range) and the battery measured fine on the same setting and same voltmeter.

So I've had issues with my battery losing a charge sometimes and I thought my alternator might be weak. I got on the internet and did some research and got around to checking it today. I found that it should be charging at or around 14 volts and when I checked mine it was pushing 40 volts, at about 37-38 volts. I checked the battery to make sure my voltmeter wasn't busted and it was fine, the freshly charged battery showing 11-12 volts. So any clue what might be wrong here? also, what problems might be caused by this? Thanks

anyone? if it was the hydraulics wouldnt it not let me start the engine with the tranny in anything other than neutral?

Not sure, the guy I bought it from did the swap but it's not the tilton one. If the slave wasn't getting enough travel wouldn't it not let me start in gear.

So I've got my engine running (sbc 5.7 carbed) but I'm still not on the road. I can start the car in any gear with the clutch down, the pedal is pretty stiff, and let off the clutch to get movement and I can shift into nuetral fine. The problem is when I go to shift into a gear, depending on what gear it either grinds or won't physically let me get the shifter there. And it's not something outside the transmission getting in the way. I can't remember quite which gears do what but I remember 1st is one that won't go, 3 grinds, reverse grinds. The rest I forget. At first I thought the hydraulics on my clutch were bad but now that I've thought about it if that were true I wouldn't be able to get out of gear and stop the car smoothly. Then I was thinking the clutch fork might have bent but I'm not sure, I feel like that would also make it so the clutch pedal was useless, in either of these two cases I shouldn't be able to start the car in gear with the clutch down without jerking the car. Anyone know what might be wrong?

can this thread be deleted? I can't figure out how to delete it on this new setup.

I have no clue as it was the previous owner before the guy who offered it to me. He took the head off over a year ago so the engine would have to be rebuilt. Now the only question really is how hard would it be for me to replace the engine?

I've been offered a 510 for my 720 I've had on craigslist and I really like it but its not running because his friend dropped a socket into it during a valve adjustment. I was just wondering what it would take to fix this, like what parts could have been damaged? Also, I found an L16 engine and tranny for $150 with good compression and came out of a running 510, I was thinking about buying it and just replacing the engine but I don't have an engine hoist and I've never swapped an engine, what might that entail? Would there be any way I could swap them without a hoist? Or maybe just the heads (I feel like thats all that would get damaged)? Do you think a shop would do it for me? How much would they charge to swap the engines for me? edit: can this be moved to the general engine or engine components section?

well the anti-deiseling solenoid could very well be bad. I'm pretty sure the carb is factory from 1980 so these things could have gone bad. The choke seemed to be rough opening and closing because we had a spring in the wrong way and it caught on the linkages but we got that figured out. I guess I should check the anti dieseling solenoid. But how do I tell if its working or not? Just apply 12v to it? When should it be getting power through the wire?

My 1980 datsun 720 was running weird, it wouldn't idle, I had to keep my foot on the gas to get it to stay running and if I didn't it would just shut off. I decided that rebuilding the carb was the best bet considering it felt like a fuel delivery problem and it's an old carb. The problem now is that it will barely run even with me playing with the gas pedal. I have to keep taping it up and down just to keep it going. Upon startup it'll rev up slowly to about 3k then drop down quickly and that is when I intervene with the gas pedal. I'm really not sure what to do right now. At this point I'm considering trying to find a new carb already rebuilt seeing as this is my second attempt at rebuilding a carb without success. any help is appreciated

the ebay ones are actually $290 less... probably not very good. but not $400

ok. I'll definitely lean out my mixture. how can I tell if it's better though? I'm not re smogging it for a while so I won't know. will it run smoother?

ok, I'll give that a try next time I get a chance. I've got school tomorrow so we'll see. Thank you

I think I am going to make a small mounting bracket out of steel stock. Although I haven't thrown out the idea of bolting it directly onto the transmission. I haven't gotten the slave yet so I haven't seen how the clearance is.

I got my truck smog tested today, its a 1980 720 4x4. I know it's not a z but I have gotten help on my z from this site so I'm sticking to it. Anyways, I got a high count on HC, I passed, but barely. The measures were: HC meas: 209/127, max: 211/128 CO meas: 0.09/0.09, max: 1.53/1.33 NO meas: 277/241, max:1507/1367 My car does idle high, I'm not sure what these numbers suggest. Any ideas?

Thanks for the responses. I checked out Howe Racing's website and they suggest a 3/4 inch master for their slave (which is the one I plan on using, it's very similar to the Wilwood slave) so I think I'm going to get a 3/4 inch master. Thanks again

those are 002's right? I've been wanting those

I know this thread is a little old but the information is still useful. Anyways, I'm considering this for my car as my clutch is acting up and after a lot of testing different things and checking them I'm 99% sure I need to rebuild my hydraulics. I have two questions.... first, how do you get the clutch fork out of the transmission second, what size master is best for this slave? The JTR manual says a .75 bore master but thats for the camaro slave. Anyone know what would be a good bore master for the wilwood slave?

i dont have any information regarding the clutch because i bought the car as a non-op project. now i've got the engine running and im working on the drivetrain. how would i go about adjusting the clutch hydraulics? i know it has fluid though, that was the first thing i checked