FiveSeventyZee

anyone? at this point my plan is to check to see how far the slave is moving (anyone know how far its supposed to go?) then if i have to i'll drop the tranny and check to see if the clutch fork is bent and or the synchros are worn.

As the title says I can't shift. I thought it was the clutch first so I tried pushing down the clutch and putting it in gear before starting the engine. I started it in 1st and it started fine with no lurching of any kind. I was able to idle without moving and let off the clutch to move the car and when I pressed the clutch i was able to stop the car and return to idle. The same thing happened in reverse. However, while in gear with the engine running I can't shift into a new gear. I can get out of the gear I'm in but I can't get it out of neutral. I do have to push the clutch down all the way and it engages/disengages very close to the floor. Could this cause my problem? I'm thinking it might disengage the clutch plates enough to not spin the wheels but not enough for me to switch gears? My car is a '72 with an 89 Chevy small block (305 or 350, not sure, it came with the car and I haven't gotten around to identifying it) and a Borg Warner wc T5. I'm not sure what clutch slave and master I have because the PO did the swap but I do know the slave is a push type and it does move when I push the clutch pedal.

look at the back window, it doesn't look s30 like

I checked the slave out and I discovered that the pushrod has been replaced by a bolt with a nut welded on the end. Even if I have the wrong bore master I'm gonna replace that first so I can get a good master for the slave I have. Which brings me to the next thing, which is that I don't know which slave to buy. Summit has Willwood and Howe pull type slaves with identical (or atleast close, I can't remember) specs but the Willwood is $74 and the Howe is $48. Has anyone ever used Howe Racing products? I've never heard of them and I don't know if I should just spend the extra $26 for the Willwood.

My SBC 240z is having transmission/clutch issues. When I start the car its fine in neutral but when I go to shift it just grinds like the clutch isn't engaged all the way. The clutch fork doesn't move until a couple degrees into the clutch pedal's travel and it seems like it could still move a bit more if the pedal could physically go any lower. I had my dad get behind the car and push me in A: neutral B: 2nd gear clutch as far down as it goes and C: 2nd gear with no clutch engagement. Obviously my A test moved fine and the C test didn't go anywhere but those were meant to be baselines. He said it felt hard to push when I had the clutch pushed down all the way. This seemed to confirm my previous suspicion that the slave cylinder doesn't have the full travel that it's supposed to. Can anyone tell me what the throw on the stock t5 slave cylinder is? or the stock 240z slave? I'm not sure if the PO used the Chevy slave or the Datsun slave. Or if theres something else that might be the problem, please tell me. Thanks

hmm, well I found a set (all four) for a 280zx cross drilled and slotted for $100. I wasn't even going to do the fronts but that seems so cheap.

so they're wider I'm guessing, that would be because they are vented right? larger diameter vented rotors from a 300zx have been used right? what's to stop these from working? if I get calipers wide enough (meant for vented rotors) and find a way to mount them then it would be a similar idea to the 300zx rotor/Toyota 4x4 caliper swap

I found a great deal on a set of drilled and slotted rotors but the set is for a 280zx. I found them because I was looking for the zx rear rotors for a disc brake swap in the back. I feel like I can't let this deal escape me. That being said, what's the difference between the front rotors on a 240z and a 280zx? are they different diameters? thickness? What if I used front calipers from a 280zx too? sorry if this is answered a lot, I did search but I couldn't find anything.

thanks. are there any technical drawings (inventor?) of how the brackets should look when they're done?

I've read that. and all it says is 280zx. it doesn't say which year. the car the calipers come from is an 82. should I get the same year rotors?

really? all the info I found said the IROC had a 305 with an optional 350...:/

no it's in the car

okay, I talked to the guy and I can get the calipers for $50 and I found new rotors for around $50. I figure since it costs the same, I should get the new rotors. they are selling 79-81 rear rotors and 82-83 rotors. which do I want?

hmmm, that seems to say that mine is a world class since it was an 89 camaro but I don't really trust what the previous owner said

my engine ame from an 89 camaro (a 350 acording to last owner) an it ha a t5 in it. I need to change the oil in it and whether I use gear oil or ATF depends on if I have the normal t5 or the world class t5. if it really is a 350 (5.7) then it would be out of an 89 IROC if that helps. and I did search but I haven't found anything on t5 vs WCt5

any chance anyone knows how much pick n pull charges for rotors/calipers? I found a set of 280zx rotors and calipers for $100 I can get semi locally, does that sound like a decent deal?

Thank you Nigel. That was the type of informative scientific reasoning I was after. And no, I did not account for the 2nd law of thermodynamics. Now that I think about it, I learned that last year in chemistry... Oh well. And the ATF cooler is only cooled by the coolant? not the air? Thats what I'm getting from what you're saying.

the statement that it'll only be the same temp as the coolant also gas a flaw though. the coolant flowing to the input is at a certain temperature probably up in the 180-225 range it travels through the radiator and cools to a certain temperature. if you were to install a thermometer and get a reading for a baseline you can use that to compare. if you were to use say a second radiator between the engine output and the radiators input (an unrealistc idea for in a car but I'm making a point) that would lower the input pressure to around where the output pressure (baseline) was. then that already cooler coolant would flow through the original radiator and cool further. my point here is this: cooler input = cooler output. assume that's true (which I believe is so) then think of it in terms of gasoline. the temp would be around what 75F? much lower than 180, thus resulting in a lower output. I stand by that statement 100% and it would take a very good scientific explanation to get me to drop that. what I'm saying is, since the input is less than that of the coolant, the output will be lower than that of the coolant. what I am unsure of is whether or not that will be cooler than the gas input (75F-ish) get what I'm thinking? edit: cockerstar, what you're saying is that the lines I am thinking of just go into a tube in the reservoir and back out? I kind of thought it would flow through the cores. The thing is I haven't hacked up any radiators lately so I don't really know whats going on in there. Whether or not the ATF flows through the cores thus being cooled by air is 95% of what would make or break this idea.

it's built into the radiator, the radiator cools the coolant. the ATF section of the radiator is cooled by air too, not the coolant. if you were to unplug the ATF Lines and run the car it coolant won't come out of them. this is what I'm doing now. my worry isn't about the coolant mixing with the gas because it won't. I'm a little worrie about the close proximity of the coolant tote ATF cooler section edit: unless the lines just go into the tank and back out and the coolant itself cools the ATF fluid. but that wouldn't make sense to me because cars that have separate ATF coolers use air to cool them like a radiator does.

ok so I know that gas coolers are an often disputed as to their affect on an engines power but from what I've found I get this: cooler gas means denser gas. denser gas allows you to get more fuel in the charge. more fuel in the charge means more to burn and more power. the argument I've seen often is that it doesn't work for EFI engines because the fuel o's constantly flowing through the return lines back to the gas tank and doesn't have time to sit and heat up like it can in carb bowls. also putting ice in your car isn't very practical for anything more than a quick drag race. I've seen automatic transmission fluid coolers for sale (specifically one on jegs) that has a little note at the bottom saying "these work great as fuel coolers too!" these seem to be a better/more practical for road use cars or cars that might be raced for more than one or two quarter mile runs because they use air to cool the gas just like a radiator would. now up till here I haven't put much of my ideas in this. I was thinking last night. I have a 240z with a SBC swap. I have a radiator out of a 4 cylinder camaro. the camaro was an automatic, the ATF cooler is built in to the radiator. since I have a 5 speed I have nothing going to the fittings on the radiator. wouldn't running my gas lines through the ATF cooler that is built in to my radiator work just the same and cool my gas giving me the denser fuel and all that goodness (my SB is carbed) I do see a possible flaw in my idea though. my worry is that the ATF cooler is so close to the coolant that it might actually warm the gas because the coolant is much hotter. so my question is, has anyone tried ths? does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I'm hoping a month isn't too old of a thread to revive but I just turned 17 and I've had my 240z for a while. I bought it last November (of 08) when I was 16. It's my first car. I bought it because I wanted to learn how to work on and fix cars and figured the best way to learn is by doing. I decided to jump into a project car. Then to chose the car I chose the s30z for a few reasons. I like the old school car, I have a hatred or vendetta if you will against cars controlled by computers doing thousands or hundreds of thousands of calculations per second. I also wanted something I could have some fun with, in terms of possibly racing every now and then. I went japanese because I don't really like European cars that much and American of the 70's are only good for strait line drags. The last reason I chose it was because my uncle (dads brother) used to autoX and gymkhana cars and when he died he left his pair of 240z's to my other uncle (who still has them waiting to be finished, one for the shell and one for the engine/tranny/whatnot) and his name was also Jimmy so I felt a certain gravitation towards the cars he used to drive. A sort of nostalgia for a life I never lived I suppose. Anywhoo, I found a 1972 240z for $1500 with a 5.7L chevy engine in it, went to check it out found out it had some performance parts on it (holley intake, eldo carb, custom strait pipes exhaust) and left a few days later hauling my first car and two tubs of parts that came from another 240z he had stripped for $1300. 10+ months later and I'm making a final push to get it on the road, I have to clean and reinstall my gas tank and change the tranny oil and I believe it will drive. I love the thought of pulling up to school in a car that I've built myself and spent less than $5k on and is 38 years old (21 years older than me) knowing it could beat most of the cars that my classmates get from their parents (e46's, a4's, 8th gen civics, cherokees, a g35, a rousch mustang, s430/500's, e350/500's oh and my friends 02 RSX type s with a bunch of CF and a fart can on the back...I live in a very wealthy area)

someone responded with 0 but now the post is gone. oh well. thanks for the help

I'm looking to do the same to my 240. I've been putting it off because I don't want to deal with tank removal. I guess if it's easy I should just get on that.

Ok thanks. Also, what are the offsets on the stock 240z steel wheels?