DStegs

Hey guys, I hear ya talkin about replacing floor pans in a 280Z. Mine is a 2+2. I got a 4X8 sheet of 18 guage, had it wacked to give me 2 2X6 foot sections. I also got 2 6 foot sections of 1 x 3 rectangular tubing in 16 Guage for the frame "rails" for under the floor. In working with the floors in your cars, what is the length of the floor from where the front bends up to the back where it meets the verticle section behind the seats. I have mine measured at 56 inches. I am wondering if it is the same length as the coupe, with the difference in coupe vs 2+2 being the section behind the verticle section. If so, would the floor pans be the same? Just curious because I know that no one makes a 2+2 floor pan and I had thought about getting a coupe floor pan from one of the companies that came up when I googled it, and adding the section to make it long enough for a 2+2. I see that most of the comments were made 3 years ago so if anyone is still watching this site, let me know. Please respond. Thanks. Dave

Well, as one who can do or try anything, I screwed up. Way earlier in the post I said I had plugged my pcv valve to check for vacuum leaks. Well, when I taped the cracked hose and hooked up the others to a "t" fitting to join the hose from the valve cover to the hose from the crankcase and then into the pcv valve, I had forgotten that I had it PLUGGED. Well, the pressure built up and blew out most of the soft gaskets and a hose or two. Those were simple fixes. The BIG problem occured when it blew out the rear main seal. Life got busy and the car sat for a season. I now have the engine and tranny out. The engine is at the machine shope getting fitted with most all new stuff in hopes of getting it back in the car by the time of our 28th Street Cruise. (Grand Rapids has joined Detroit by having a cruise similar to the Woodward Cruise). During the removal and prep for the rebuilts' return, I did locate and remove the BCDD. I made a plate and gasket to fit over the opening that used to hold it to seal it. My simple question after the preceding confession is... Do I still have to plug the holes with sealant or will the plate and gasket do the trick? It will be sealed from the outside but I don't know if any of the holes inside will "Leak" to the others and cause a problem. OH! With everything out, I would also like to upgrade to a 5 speed transmission. Anyone know of one for sale?? Probably should do the clutch and bearing also. HHHMMMM. Rather do it now than later.. If anyone is still following this, please let me know. Thanks. Dave

Wedge, me too! Hope he hasn't stalled on it or given up. Liked the progress he was making so far. A real inspiration to us all. I have to redo the floors in mine. Michigan and old cars usually don't go together very well because of the salt. Not going to go the sandblasting route though. Just cut what I see is bad and weld in new. Looking for more posts Mull. Thanks for what you've done so far. Good luck.

Well, I haven't gotten to removing the big old monster of a BCDD under the throttle body but I did get the idle to smooth out. I pulled the hose from the valve cover into the rubber boot before the TB and plugged the hole. Runs smooth now. Took the hose and T'd it into the hose from the crank case and ran both to the PCV valve on the bottom of the manifold. Really screwed up first though because I had epoxied shut the old pcv valve and when I hooked up the new hose system the pressure in the crank case blew out the valve cover gasket and the seal around the oil filter. Guese that could be described as a crankcase "leak" test. Oh well, new gasket and a much neede oil change solved that problem. Runs smooth now but still have to get the RPM's to drop quicker. Guese the BCDD is next. Thanks again for all the help.

Oh, will the 240Z bumpers fit the 280? Or is there an aftermarket that will fit and cover the body grooves for the bumpers??

Didn't think to check Autozone. Thought the Z might be more erotic than what they have. I'll give them a call now. Thanks.

Is the TB gasket any special material or can I make one from gasket material? Or could I silicone it sealed??

Great, now I have something to do this weekend. Learning as I go. Both with the site and my car. Attempting "signature". Thanks.

carfiche.com my friend I either need stronger glasses or I have to blow it up a bunch larger. How do you read it or is it better if you download a page and print it??

Man that is UGULY! No wonder it gives everyone a PITA! So where do I take it off at? Is it just the round thingy at the bottom with the 5 or 6 screws in the base of it or is it everything south of the TB?

Duder280Z, Thanks for the description of the BCDD and how to remove and plug it. Will get a gasket and tackle that next. I get this thing running any better and I won't want to get rid of it...... Still have to work on R and R ing the floors. Got an idea from Mull's videos on taking out and installing new floors. I think I can do it from the top down without stripping and flipping it over. Looks like the flat 18ga. with 2x3" rails is what I am going to do to it. Might lose about an inch and a half but can fit the seat rails to work at the correct level. Oh, to find a 2+2 floor system and just weld it in. Right now I have a patchwork repair job on it and the rails are still bad. Oh well, I didn't want to get bored this summer.

I understand things slip and stretch with age (gee, that sounds familiar) but I haven't checked the pully/engine alignment. I also want to either check or replace the timing chain and gears because of the same potential problem. I did (prior to spending any money) open and check the throttle valve switch. I did that after the tests from the EFI PDF bookelet. It indicated the throttle valve working on acceleration but not decelleration. Well with nothing to loose, I cracked the baby open and lo and behold, no contact on the decell. mode so I took my needle nose and bent it till it made contact, and it now works as it should. A bit of silicone sealant in the corners and it is back in place functioning as it should. One more thing that you guys suggested is next on my list and that is the BCDD valve?? Guese it is under the TB. Any suggestions as to what it is and looks like. I can kindof see it from above but don't know for sure what it looks like. Someone else here said to take off all the extra garbage on the manifold and plug the appropriate holes. That is coming also. The car now starts, idles, goes, and stops like it hasn't in years. I do want the rpms to drop like a rock when I decellerate so I guese the BCDD will do that???? Thanks for the help, and suggestions from all. Hope you had a great 4th of July.

Invest in a volt/ohm meter and try this site. I haven't been to the site you mentioned but they sound like they are from the same group. This gives you an EFI manual that will lead you through the tests to rule out problems. Have you checked compression for either bad rings or valve broken?? Good luck. I know it is frustrating. I am still going through it but at least I see the light at the end of the tunnel. And it ain't a train. Just checked the site. $64.48 for a new one at Advanced Auto. Do the test and see if you need one. Dave http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/e...ectionbook.pdf

Got this site for the EFI PDF booklet from thetremendoustim and it helped me with some terms and of course, testing the system. It helped me a lot and it leads you through almost all of the EFI system component testing. all you need is a little time and a volt/ohm meter to do the checks. Mine is also a 75 280Z with EFI. I still have a few things to replace but it helped get me to at least one of my major problems and ruled out my thermotime switch. You can download it and print it if you want. It is easier than taking the desktop into the garage. Good luck. Dave http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/e...ectionbook.pdf

Thurstnut, Thanks for the help. I followed a combination of Chiltons, old school and the EFI booklet I downloaded from TTT and after dinkin around with the vacuum leaks and weak brittle hoses, I got the idle down. FI had to have the thermotine switch pulled and jumped. It said nothing of pulling the vacuum line, but I had done that before with a couple of carbed cars before. I might still have a few leaks but at least it idles now. Next is the valve train and from what I found with the EFI booklet and the tests in the back, my throttle valve switch on the idle side is shot. That would contribute to my problem. Have been looking and I think Advanced Auto has one for cheaper than online. Looks like the right one and the pic matches the one I have. Also want to check the BCDD switch or valve but that is a bit more disassembly. Oh well, there is always tomorrow. Plus the switch won't be in for a couple of days. It runs good enough to drive so I am set for a while. Actually it runs better than before. This site and you guys have been very helpful and I will continue to use it. Later. Dave

Burninator, You might try the same thing that I did and search out all the vacuum leaks and go from there. Dave

Well, I went through and searched out most of the vacuum leaks, I think, and solved the ones I could find. Got it to idle lower and was able to set the timing (FINALLY). Don't know if it is because timing chain is stretched or what but I had to go into the distributer and adjust the "Phase difference adjuster" to get it so I could get the mark on the pully to even hit on the timing scale. After a few back and forths I was able to set it and move on to the next problem. It seems that with age everything gets brittle and cracks. Going to replace all the vacuum lines and assorted hose that attach to the many wonderfull things the lines attach to. Still unable to "adjust the idle correctly because the little adjustment screw for idle is retained by a small nut. Can't adjust it because the I cant release the nut to set the screw deeper because the housing is there. Sounds like another dissassembly to do a simple adjustment. It also runs a bit rough at idle and I am ordering a valve cover gasket to get in an adjust the valves. Also have to replace the pcv hose under the manifold. It fell apart like old dried cake when I went to touch it. Certain that was one of the major leaks I had. Plugged the pcv valve to do my timing. Also seems that the throttle switch does nothing. Unplugged and plugged it in and no difference when reving the engine and letting it idle. (see above where everything gets brittle) Going to follow the wires and see if they are broken any place. Have to study the circuit testing section and maybe can avoid a lot of dead end chases. Thanks to the tremendoustim and thrustnut for your suggestions. Seem to be leading me in the right direction. The electronic fuel injection manual also helps a lot. Now I am off seeking a 1975 280Z Service Manual. Anyone have one out there to download??

Thrustnut. Can't get the idle below a grand to 1200 rpm. Got the lit from TTT and will see if I can cypher a reason out of that. Might be vacuum or a sensor. Hope a simple fix will do but I am ready for the worst. Thanks. Dave

Hey TTT. (The Tremendous Tim) Thanks for the literature to read. This will probably make me sound stupid but that is why I am asking questions. Will read before attempting much more. I have a couple of issues. Idle is about 11 1200 rpm and will not drop if you rapp the throttle nor go any lower without spitting and stalling. Sensors?? Well off to the garage with the literature. Thanks. Dave

I have a 75 Z with FI and I can't get the thing to idle worth a squat. Cold, it runs rough and back fires a bit but once it is warm and rolling down the road it runs fine but I have to play with the throttle when I am at a stop, or it is racing at about 1200 rpm at idle. I can't get the timing mark on the balancer and farther onto the scale for timing then 0. Do I have to pull my distributer and reset it in the next "slot"? I have tried moving the phase adjusting timer but can't get the marks to line up. Is my chain too sloppy to get the rest of it right? Car has about 141k miles on it and I think somewhere along the line it might have needed a new cam chain. I can deal with carbs on American Iron but this FI is baffling me. Maybe a small block will solve my problem but don't have the cash for conversion right now. Something simple has to solve it that I keep missing because it runs good when warm and rollin. HELP!

Hey Zoobee, Thanks for the update on the videos. Simply amazing what you can do to a car with time and money. Can't wait to see it on the road. Now back to work on mine. Dave

Loved the videos was for Mull!

I know I am a bit behind the time line of when you first started your Z project. Loved the videos on the rust dissection and repair. Lost the link between #16 and here but will go looking for the others. My Z is a Michigan Z and while I had it stored all winters but one, I think it was on the road for a few others before I got it. It is a 75 and I got it in 82. I have some patches in the floor and have had the small holes behind the wheels done with metal but I am now looking at what needs to be done to replace the floor pans. Might go with straight panels and frame rails to expedite the process. I have seen some neat ideas but not going to go as far as you did. Really impressive but not for me. Most of the remaining rust is pretty much confined to the floor. Thanks for the videos and inspiration. Work starts tomorrow! Hope I can find the threads between then an now. You should also put it together on a dvd and see if the speed channel will air it. Might be able to offset some of the rusto repair bills with it. Thanks again. Dave