dskubitz

I have a e6k and wiring harness. I think I have the MAP sensor and a few other sensors as well.

Ok, here are some print screens of my settings: The ECU dignostic error is clear, but I still get no spark.

this threat should answer a lot of your questions: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100007&highlight=oil+cooler+adapter

Thanks for your help. I have a "ECU diagnostic error" from halwin. I bet that's the problem.

Only if you have the block with the oil bypass valve in the block and not the plate.

Ok, I've double and tripple checked the wiring to the ignition system, injectors and home/trigger system. It all seems correct. I have the W to the trigger wire (G/B on distributor), and the W/G to the home (G/Y on distributor). I have 13.8v to the B/W wire on the distributor. turning the distributor will start the fuel pump, but it only registers a fraction of the true RPMs on the ECU. On the injectors, I am getting voltage on one side, but not on the other. Shouldn't I have voltage on both wires? On the ignition wires, I am getting no voltage at all. I have a feeling my ECU is screwed up. It doesn't fire the injectors and it doesn't fire the ignition when I spin the distributor. I do get readings from all of my sensors, and the TPS will calibrate. I would post my screen shots of the setup, but I don't know how. Is there anyway to diagnose the problem here. I got the ECU second hand. I hope somebody can help.

Right now, I only have internet access from work, so I will try to send a print screen of the settings to my work email, then post it here. I haven't tried to use the trigger diag. tool. Where is that located? my ECU is only reading 2 to 3 RPM during cranking, so maybe I have my trigger and home wire hooked up to the wrong wires. I have 4 wires going to the distributor:12v, ground, home and trigger. The harness has 4 wires bundled in to two separate home and trigger wires. I just used the one bundle, with one wire from the other bundle for the home signal. I hope that was okay to do.

Can somebody help me with a direct fire setup of a haltech E11v2? I am not getting any spark. I am using the LS1 4 wire coils, and have it wired as such: D – 12V from ECU (org/blk wire) C - Ignition wire (individual colored wires) B - Ground wire from ECU (blk/wht) A – Ground (blk) I can get spark if I apply voltage to “C†manually, but the ECU is not supplying any voltage to “Câ€. Did I setup something wrong?

I had the same issue, tried the T off another line method, but the smog place picked up on it right away. they put the lines on the non working thermo valve, and passed it because my NOX was low. Not all shops are the same.

Does it turn over when hot? If it turns over but doesn't start, you may want to search the forum for "heat soak".

I wonder if you could place the motors end to end where the differential goes, then attach a short CV joint from the motors to the wheels. Do they have short motors (around 9 inches) that would have enough power to drive the vehicle? Conversely, I wonder if you can put the motors next to each other with CV attachments. there would be a contant slight angle for each CV, but if it didn't vibrate or harm the cv joints in any way, it might be an option. If I was to try this setup, I would like to put the batter recharge station plug, and maybe a couple of batteries where the gas tank and filler goes (depending on the weight distribution). I would like to keep the batteries out of the hatch area, but still want enough juice for some decent driving radius. Does anyone know about the "heat pump" type of A/C systems that are used in electric vehicles? I'm very tempted to build something with a maximum budget of $20,000.

How much? can we get these here? This would be awsome with at least two of these on the rear wheels. 550 lbs torque each, and long range. I want one.

Have you thought about putting two motors mounted in the rear of the car, each directly to the back wheels? I figure that it might put a lot of extra weight in the back of the car, but you would lose a lot of weight in drive train, which would allow for more battery carrying capacity in the front.

I got an estimate of $2600

Download the factory service manual, look under the door mechanism area for how to adjust. It took me about 45 minutes to get it right. http://carfiche.com/manuals022/cars/

You didn't give a good description of the problem. Here's what mine was doing: Slam the door, didn't catch. slam, slam slam slam............. finally caught. over and over this would happen. I took off the door panel and found that the adjuster was not allowing for the latch to close all the way. So I loosened it. It shuts with the greatest of ease now.

the external door handle mechanism adjustment nut may be too tight.

Did you take off any heatshields off of the manifold? It sounds like heat soak of the injectors

my guess is the 32 year old wiring is bad. Although it's a pita, you might want to think about changing it.

by that logic, cops should just taser everyone. Better safe than sorry. Unfortunately, tasers are not completely safe.

The situation could have been handled better. The cop didn't need to arrest the motorist for doing 68, nor for refusing to sign the ticket. And he certainly didn't need to taser the guy. He had the guy on video admitting to violating the speed limit. All he had to do was to write "refused to sign" on the ticket, handed it to the motorist and said "see you in court". But instead, the cop took the "respect my authority" approach, and blew something way out of proportion. Tasers can kill, and they can only be removed by medical personnel. The cop decided to arrest the guy, and at that point, he had the authority to use force if the motorist did not comply. Unfortunately, that will probably keep the cop from getting into trouble. However, there needs to be a screening process to keep bullies from carrying lethal and non-lethal weapons so that they don't use them indiscrimately on citizens. It just didn't need to go down like that, and I hope his captain is pissed and getting pressure from the public to remove this guy!

It has brand new plugs, but it is probably experienceing misfires. Wouldn't lean misfires also temporarily cause the Air/fuel ratio to go down? How do I tune using these results?

Okay, after the last couple of years of rebuilding and rewiring the car, I finally have some progress. I have spark and fuel! The engine starts right up no problem. I hooked up a Lc-1 wideband for tuning, but I am unsure of what I am supposed to do next. The LC-1 is reading all over the board, from 12 - 18 while the engine is idling. The engine seems to idle smooth while the AF is 15 - 17, but runs rough at 12. I am not doing anything to change these settings, but would love to know what I should do to get things running smooth. I have a E6k, stock 280zx turbo, fuel regulator set at 38psi. It smells like it's running rich, but the wideband is showing lean. Can somebody point me in the right direction of what I'm supposed to do next? How am I supposed to use the wideband for tuning. What should I tune first? Any help from the pros would be appreciated.

Tool does have the greatest songs ever, but their masterpiece is Lateralus... or maybe forty six and 2, or maybe third eye, or Stink fist, or maybe... no seriously, it's Lateralus.

I am running a MSD 6al box to supply spark to a MSD II coil. I have also rewired the entire car, and I am using a Haltech box as the ECU. Here's how coil is wired: MSD orange wire to + coil MSD black wire to - coil When I crank the engine, I get voltage spikes at the + coil terminal, but zero volts in the on postion. Shouldn't I have 12v when the switch is on? Am I missing a wire or two on the coil? I've searched and searched and can't find the answer. I would love to finally get this thing started.